V28VX37

Bushing options for the diff below. There doesn't seem to be much difference between the lower (front) ones, however the upper (rear) ones from SuperPro are quite different to the other two - which ones are better? Lower bushing (diff front side) SuperPro SPF2637K $60.50 (via Kudos) Whiteline W93047Diff $58.85 Nolathane 49161 $69.99 (eBay) Upper bushing (diff rear side) SuperPro SPF3775K $ ??? Instructions Whiteline KDT913Diff $161.70 Instructions Nolathane 49162 $138.88

Apparently on the 300ZX the HICAS ball joint can be done using a Pitman Puller Arm similar to what I posted above: How to install Hicas ball joint with out a press I'll need to measure the arm to see if I can find a right sized puller. I also found this 26pc Press & Pull Sleeve Kit from Radum that might work for the upper diff bushings in the subframe:

Thanks again. I'm just reading up on how to remove the ball joints and it sounds like a complete PITA. I think I'd rather take it to the shop if I have to pull the uprights or the subframe out, way too much work... Apparently someone has used a puller like this for the ball joints, not sure where to find one though:

Yeah I've looked at SPF and Whiteline so far too, looks like there's a couple of different types for both upper and lower diff bushes so happy to take recommendations. With HICAS, it looks like there's a couple of ways to approach it: Typical HICAS lock bar that retains OEM steering rack ends and ball joints HICAS eliminator kit that removes HICAS completely and replaces all OEM items The eliminator kit is more exxy but my ball joints are worn and if you factor them in it's pretty much even - so I'm guessing I'm better off going with this option? Are there any downsides to the eliminator kit over lock bar? I'm guessing either option will throw up HICAS warning light in the dash?

Awesome, great to hear it can be done! Which bushes did you end up putting in? I'm having a look on fleabay and the rear bushes seem a bit tricky to find...

Thanks guys. What I'm really trying to save is hundreds worth of labour that it would cost to pull out both the diff and the subframe. If there's a tool or technique to get the upper bushes and steel sleeves out with the subframe still in the car that'd be ace, as I might be able to do it myself. I took some photos of the four bushes, the upper ones are in a pretty tight spot but once the diff is out there might just be enough space out front to fit a puller tool in. Also you can kind of see the steel sleeves in pics 3 and 4. Overview 1. 2. 3. 4. 4. (front side)

Stopped being lazy and had a look, this is indeed the case. Hey has anyone used a 'bush puller' tool that would allow removing the rear bushes on the car, without dropping the subframe? Something that pulls out the steel sleeve too so that you don't have to resort to the hack saw method? I'm thinking something along these lines: or

Thanks guys. Do I have it right that the front bushes are pressed onto the diff, and the rear ones are in the subframe? The front bushes definitely look easier to do, provided that one can get the OEM ones out (steel sleeves suck)..

Or sell your RB25DE Neo R32 project and buy someone else's RB25DET Neo R32 project? You will never save money doing another swap, let someone else who's already done it with the engine you want take the hit.

I had a workshop look over the car to inspect a clunk in the driveline as described here. Apparently it's a combination of the following: Shot diff bushes (upper & lower) Worn tie rod ends Worn ball joints HICAS - needs a lock bar Apparently the diff bushes is a subframe out job, is this right? I also read that it's a prick of a thing to do in an R33, is it the same for R34's? Is there any hope to do this at home or too hard basket? I've replaced a few of metal sleeved factory bushes before and getting them out sucks bigtime If it's a workshop thing, what's the approximate labour? Should I do subframe bushes at the same time? Apparently there's a whole fruit platter you can chuck in there, no idea what them pineapples do...

Good idea, here's what the new owner has done on my old Monaro, I wouldn't mind something like this:

Thanks! I had this issue on the mountain where the front(s) started vibrating badly when they heated up. This went away once I let the car cool down and braked a less aggressively. So either one or both discs are warped or there's something else funny going on. Oh and I did check wheel nuts when hot, they're all good. The car has 130k+ kms on it and the rotors look like they might be original still, so might be time to upgrade anyway. Thanks Chris, good to know, the A1RM's do sound like a decent street/light track compromise. Which pads are you thinking next? Thanks, where did you go from A1RM? Yeah tough call. Those Winmax ones sound interesting too, although I have no idea which number I should look into. Is anyone running Project Mu HC800 ('crossover pad for track day, rally, race as well as high performance street')? They're quite a bit pricier than the QFM's, I wonder if they're that much better.

Tidy car, great price. GLWS.

Awesome, thanks heaps for the input guys, sounds like I've got the rotor selection sorted. Just to clarify, this is a street car 98% of the time. I'd love to take it to the track but the A1RM may be too aggressive for my typical use, although I am tempted. I'll have another read of the brake pad thread here (in case anyone else is looking). Sounds like braided lines and brake cylinder stopper might be a goer too, are there recommended brands or is eBay no name stuff just fine?

Hi fellas, I recently went for a drive in the high country and it appears that the stock brakes on my GTT can't quite match 275rwkw, surprise. I've had a look through the various threads via search but wanted some opinions for my specific circumstances: Looking for better stopping power and more accurate pedal feel Looking for less fade in repeat use Prefer keeping stock calipers and rotor size - I'm running the stock 17" wheels) Want to keep the ABS obviously I'm thinking of the following setup: DBA T3 Club Spec 4000 Series slotted rotors all around (what's the best place to buy, eBay?) QFM HPX pads High quality brake fluid (any recommendations?) Would this setup give me what I'm after? What about braided lines or master cylinder, any point in looking into those? Anything else I've missed? Thanks heaps!

I ran 200rwkw through the Tiptronic and it was fine-ish. Then went 260rwkw+ and it was s__thouse -> converted to manual. I'd suggest doing the shift kit early, should make the box last a bit longer. And the cooler. Plus anything else Scotty and Greg recommend. (Also if you're spending little money on the turbo you will end up spending much bigger money on everything else around it. There's no cheap way out, really.)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WjbSY4j0yIs#t=3s

Yep it's booked in at TruTrack for Thursday for a proper alignment. I can't believe the local shop claims to be 'wheels and tyres' yet have zero idea about alignment. Stay away.

LOL, one manufactured in 2011 no less!

Well if there's enough tread left for another 15,000 kms but sidewalls start cracking, are they fit for purpose? Should tyres last for more than 18 months in normal use? I guess we'll never find out. These Goodyears are fairly hard compound and people normally get a lot of km's out of a set.

Took the car back in a massive rush this morning, results below. Rear toe is better but still nowhere near right, and they've mucked up castor big time. Apparently they can only align to whatever's on the computer, what bs. This place is in Fawkner, if anyone wants the name I'm happy to PM it through so you can avoid it. I'll take the car back to TruTrack next week so they can do it right.

Thanks KiwiRS4T. Yes I gave them the sheet first time, I think they just completely ignored it. Shouldn't have allowed them to touch the alignment in the first place, got blinded by the cheap price

Interesting. So my warranty claim was denied due to the 'low pressure' and 'non-standard camber', I wonder if I could refer this issue to anybody else? Manufacturer? I obviously don't have the damaged tyres anymore so it's getting a bit complicated..

Thanks guys! I'll need to take it back. Bloody hell, this is what you get when you do a cheap alignment ... they scratched one of the rims pretty thoroughly, too

Well the official line is that low pressure combined with non-stock camber is the cause. These tyres were ordered online from Sydney and put on by a separate shop in Melbourne (probably originally inflated to >32psi), and I maintained the pressure at 32psi since. There is nothing on the sidewall to indicate minimum recommended pressure, only maximum. I raised this with the seller also to no avail.