V28VX37

That rear toe does look odd doesn't it. Also the fact that based on the printout they've used R31 specs to align doesn't exactly fill me with confidence...

Great question, yes I am. Didn't think of that - the fact that the skittishness is more pronounced at higher speeds (60 km/h+) might suggest that HICAS is mucking things up? Also the rest of the suspension is as follows: BC BR coilovers with F:6, R:5 springs ARC swaybars front and rear Adjustable camber arms front and rear Adjustable radius rods in front 20mm spacers front and rear with stock R34 GTT wheels

Hi guys, My R34 has felt a bit more skittish recently, especially on poor or corrugated surface on off camber slopes. It's a bit hard to describe but it feels less planted than I remember, especially on crappier asphalt. Another sensation is this kind of slight 'sideways skip' on a bend if there's reduced grip due to a pothole. The only thing that's changed is that I had new tyres put on (exact same brand tyre and size as before, Goodyear Early F1 Asym 2) and they did alignment at the same time. Can someone please have a look at the two alignment sheets below and let me know if there's anything suss about the new one? Thanks heaps! 2013 alignment done at TruTrack to suit my preference: 2014 alignment done at a local shop to whatever their computer threw up by the looks of things:

Just to close this one off, I have replaced these tyres with a new set of exactly the same brand and size. I sent the previous set back for inspection and they had several people look at them, it was deemed premature sidewall failure due to too low pressure. I just wish that someone had told me what PSI to run them at when I bought the set but oh well, live and learn. A nice thousand dollar mistake. For reference the recommendation is 38-40 PSI for these tyres - my Jap and Aus tyre placards both say 32 PSI for the exact same size tyre...

Looks great in carbon! Much nicer than my Origin's matte black home job

Some good euro drift clips from Aatomotion: #DEATHRACE Drift Allstars 2014 (Round 5: Estonia) Estonia Drift GP #RIGABABY Drift Allstars 2014 (Round 4: Latvia) Latvian Drift GP #POV Drift Allstars 2014 (Round 3: Sweden) Swedish Drift GP More from Aatomotion: https://www.youtube.com/user/aatomotion/

LS1 conversion

Great looking car and an awesome list of mods, well done. I have seen this around a while back, remember the plates. The only thing I have against VE's is the weight, they're a porker so need lots of power to get them moving. I've gone from a 1680kg 293rw V2 Monaro to 1440kg 275rwkw R34 and the Skyline feels quicker, however nothing beats the angry sound of a headworked cammed V8 IMHO. The NA power delivery was sweet, too. What kind of power figures were you running in the R33?

I had a high RPM breakdown occurring that was caused by faulty CAS: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/326043-resolved-misfire-in-r34-gtt-rb25det-neo/ RB's are awesome (not) in that they can misfire for any number of random reasons, bastard to diagnose.

Sikaflex, stay away from the edges and let it cure for 48 hours under pressure e.g. under a tiedown. And don't do it on a 40deg day like I did. See here for more info: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/438115-how-to-install-boot-lip-and-roof-wing/

Are you looking to dismantle the whole thing or just clear the lenses? If latter, just get a lens cleaning kit from superrepcobarn, much less hassle.

This guy does burnouts in two cars at the same time:

I assume these are in GT-R fitment and too low offset for GTT/GTS-T?

You can custom order a 200cpsi one in the 5" body, it may take longer as they might not have them on the shelf. Have a chat with George @ Venom. Re legalities, apparently even injectors will prevent you from passing EPA. So the theory goes that if you have moderately built car it won't pass no matter what cat you're running. Then there's the separate issue of penalty when running decat/without a cat (NZ style) - AFAIK a cat is a cat is a cat, irrespective of the cell count, however if someone knows otherwise please let us know.

Scotty tells us that an oiled filter + AFM = bad idea. Apparently something to do with the oil getting onto the air flow meter and messing up the readings. Clean your AFM and try with a paper filter perhaps?

Hardly unique but I do like my Origin boot lip and wing: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438115-how-to-install-boot-lip-and-roof-wing/ The cheap and easy to install rubber front lip made a difference too, IMO.

I've got an R34 auto box for sale here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444714-fs-r34-gtt-automatic-gearbox-and-parts-mbc-fuel-pump-tension-rods-manual-parts-mel/

Still looking for a second hand R34 shifter trim if anyone has one lying around

This:

Plenty of R33's and R34's running ~300rwkw with stock manual gearboxes on the street, shouldn't be a problem. Autos start dying a lot earlier. Obviously if you have a HD clutch, aftermarket diff and wide sticky rubber there will be a lot more load on the box ... the weakest part of the driveline will give up the ghost first, not surprisingly.

Good plan. That + Nistune + boost controller = 200rwkw on premium unleaded, assuming you've got a high flow cat and cat back exhaust. For E85 you'll probably have do injectors and fuel pump too (go big enough to support later mods) that will give you another 30rwkw or so.

Pretty much anything with 'swap' or 'conversion' in the title is not worth it if you're looking to save a) money, b) effort and/or c) headache. Sell the GT, buy a GTT. Sorry to rain on the parade.

Back in my LS1 days a lot of people with decent power 300-400rwkw who wanted good straight line traction (read: drags) ended up going back to the stock FE2 suspension in the rear. More travel + softer springs + less inflated tyres = better traction off the line. Your typical coilover has a lot less travel and is much harder than factory suspension, a lot of the Jap stuff I've seen comes with completely outrageous 10 or 12 kg/mm rated springs that have no place on our roads. Totally agree that you should get your suspension to fit you need. In my case BC + softer springs is a happy balance between ride quality, handling and budget.

Very nice, well done! Pics remind me again that I totally have to visit Canada one day.. When you're done with the first batch of mods a high flow is a good next level option, should get you up to around 250rwkw Do you guys have access to E85 or similar over there?

BS. I'm running 6/5 on an R34 sedan and the rates are perfect, very happy I didn't go the standard rates. I've got uprated sways at both ends too. Have you driven a with BCs vs. another one with Shockworks? Hard to compare two setups otherwise... I had yellow Konis, King Springs and bigger swaybars in my Monaro and the ride quality was excellent. In my experience the ride on the BCs on the Skyline are equivalent.