V28VX37

Garage full of bloody smurfs, cannot help running over a few?

R34 GTT sedan manual: Hypergear ATR43-SS2 internally gated on stock manifold Rebuilt actuator arm (~3mm preload) Stock airbox and snorkel K&N panel filter Z32 AFM Scotty's 3" intake pipe Trust turn flow intercooler Blitz Dual SBC Spec R EBC (dual solenoid) Yellow Jacket coil packs NGK BKR7EIX spark plugs regapped Deatchwerks 800cc injectors Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump JJR 3" bellmouth front/dump (modified) Venom 5" body high flow cat PEX/Berklee mid muffler 3" HKS Super Drager rear muffler Full manual conversion using R34 gearbox and parts Nistune Result: 275rwkw @ ~20psi, BP 98 Octane (red line) Without airbox lid, snorkel and filter: 285rwkw (top blue line)

Update compared to my previous result with the following changes: 1. Rebuilt actuator arm by Stao with more preload (around 3mm) - this is a Z shaped one as opposed to the original straight rod 2. Rebuilt & tucked in exhaust system: JJR bellmouth - bottom half has been recut/customised to run as close to the floor as possible Venom 5" cat - bought without flanges, which were welded on at the exhaust shop for best alignment HKS Super Drager cat back (R33 coupe model) - mid muffler replaced and moved further back for better clearance, most of the piping redone in 3"... 3. Retune at Chasers Result: 275rwkw @ ~20psi, BP 98 Octane (red line) Without airbox lid, snorkel and filter: 285rwkw (top blue line) It also has better response than before so the actuator and exhaust mods have helped. The intake is restricting it a bit and I reckon that the Trust turnflow might be at its limits, too. Thanks heaps Stao and others for your help on this!!

Mad Mike recommends 'fast dry enamel or primer' in the Tire Bomb post on Speedhunters, might give those a go. I'm considering getting a custom made laser cut stencil made out of plywood or perspex, would allow me to respray easily when needed...

Yes, you can just see the end of the top pipe coming back down in the 3rd last photo above, see the top arrow. I believe the factory breather pipe vents to atmosphere the same way, just without the filter in between.

I connected it to the original metal pipe on the gearbox, had to bend it out a bit more to get access from underneath. I reckon if the pipe was facing where it's meant to (forward) there's no chance to get to without dropping the rear of the box, so kind of lucky that mine's bent... Yeah I put it up visible so that I can keep an eye on it. Can't be good if there's lots of gearbox oil climbing that far up. Fingers crossed.

Can anyone recommend a tailshaft or driveline specialist in inner or inner north Melbourne? I might get someone to have a look at it...

Yeah nah, the lettering on the tyres is tiny. I want to go big

Thanks guys. I'd really prefer spray paint if possible - the stencils never stick on 100% so a brush/pen is likely bleed under the edges (the spray does a bit, too).

I just checked this again with handbrake on and gearbox in neutral. There's about 8mm of play in the diff, measured on the outer ring where the tail shaft joins the diff. Not sure if this is a little or a lot? I also did the 'diff test' and opposite wheel rotates the same way when turning so it's definitely is viscous diff. Might be time to upgrade...

It came out pretty well, photos below. Now just need to fill up the gearbox again and see how well it all work. Thanks heaps GTSBoy and sky30 for your help!!

Thanks heaps GTSBoy!! Great info. Here's what I grabbed from Supercheap, hoping to install today:

Cool I'll do that. I assume I can use any old auto hose for this? Great idea! Do you mean one of these: Silly question, which way around should this go? ... Also another thing, it looks like my breather connector is bent, it's pointing down not forward (see photo of gearbox above). I'm not too keen to trying to bend it back as it might crack. What this means though is that there will be a bend in the hose and some oil may sit there, will this be a problem?

Thanks guys. I've continued this in the Gear Box Breather thread.

I've been running NPC7333HD-10" on my R34 GTT since my manual conversion, it's a great clutch with a good feel and not heavy at all. I spoke with NPC prior to purchasing it, great service too. Btw this clutch is the same as Exedy NSK-7333HD. Mine even had part of the packaging with Exedy logos, though the clutch itself was in NPC shrink wrap.

Found some photos of RB25 boxes looks like the breather runs into a little hook near the bellhousing? I hope this is not a gearbox out job

Got the filler plug open yay. There's still oil in there but I'd estimate the level to be 2-3 mm down from the edge of the filler hole. Photo below though it's a bit hard to see. How much oil do you reckon I need to fill it up to full? And how do I fix the breather hose so this doesn't happen again?? Cheers

I'm having the same problem. I had a look under the car after a long country drive to find a fair bit of blue gearbox oil at the rear of the gearbox and on the crossmember: The car's also recently been on the dyno so it may be from that too. It's an R34 GTT with R34 RB25DET gearbox and Redline Lightweight Shockproof. I had a better look today and it's definitely coming from the breather: Is there meant to be a hose connected to the breather? If so, where does it connect to? This is a recent conversion so maybe this is something that's been missed in the install... I was just trying undo the driver side 1/2" plug (refer right arrow below) on a level surface to check the oil level, can't get enough leverage, is there a good trick to this? Thanks!!

Hi guys, digging up an old thread, I may have a similar problem. I had a look under the car after a long country drive to find a fair bit of blue gearbox oil at the rear of the gearbox and on the crossmember. The car's also recently been on the dyno so it may be from that too. It's an R34 GTT with R34 RB25DET gearbox and Redline Lightweight Shockproof. I couldn't find a clear source where the oil may be coming out, whereabouts is the breather on these boxes? How do I check how much oil is left in the box? Can I just undo the driver side 1/2" plug on a level surface?

Ok so I finally got around to trying this the other night, with some Goodyear Eagle stencils from Canada: http://www.racelinedigital.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2048 The bad news is, acrylic paint definitely does not work, it's already flaking off after a couple of days... The other bad news is, I found out that my tyres are shagged when putting them back on the car after doing this The good news, I really like the look: Any ideas on how to do this properly and which paint to use? (I'd also love to 3D print some sidewall shaped stencils to avoid buying more sticker ones each time this needs to be redone...)

I'm pretty sure that the cracks on these tyres are not from mechanical contact with anything. I try to avoid parking on the footpath with the outer tyres in the gutter I've been in touch with the tyre shop and they reckon one possibility is running too low pressures. Which would suck, since I've been following the tyre placard info to a tee at all times (32 psi). See how we go.

Thanks heaps guys! I have contacted the original shop, let's see what they say. It's a real shame, I like these tyres, they're a good all-rounder with decent grip in dry and wet, and low wear... Oh well more money into the pit

Hi guys, I was putting my tyres back on last night and was shocked to notice pretty severe cracks/cuts on one of them - only to find more damaged tyres soon after. Two of the tyres have deep cracks (front right and rear left) and one has less severe ones (rear right). See photos below. These are good quality tyres, Goodyear F1 Asymmetric 2 in 235/45R17, manufactured in late 2011. I bought and installed them new in Jan 2013, and they have only about 15,000 kms on them. I'm running BC BR coilovers and stock 17" R34 GTT wheels with 20mm spacers. I've checked all clearances several times and can't see where it could rub, certainly not on the inside. If only the fronts or the rears were affected it would make more sense, but that's not the case either. What could be causing this? Do these look like a bad batch/compound or more like mechanical tears? Thanks heaps. Front right: Rear left: Rear right:

Assuming not troll. You can also put jack stands at usual jack locations on sills (with suitable adaptors i.e. wooden blocks), which will leave the wheels/arms free to move up&down if required.

Thanks for the follow ups guys! Here's my exhaust puzzle: JJR bellmouth - bottom half has been recut/customised to run as close to the floor as possible Venom 5" cat - bought without flanges, which were welded on at the exhaust shop for best alignment HKS Super Drager cat back (R33 coupe model) - mid muffler replaced and moved further back for better clearance, most of the piping redone... It's the frankenexhaust but at least it ) flows really well and is 2) tucked in properly (FINALLY). Compared to Kinks' photo above my cat sits a bit higher.