V28VX37

Air box lid and filter cost 10 rwkw when comparing otherwise identical runs back to back. And yes I'm running the full stock airbox, snorkel and a K&N panel filter on the street.

Updated result from yesterday: 275 rwkw @ 20psi and 285 without air box lid and filter. R34 with SS2 on 98. Changes since last run are a better actuator arm (thanks heaps Stao!!) and a Venom 5" 100cpsi cat. Very happy with it now. Will post the dyno sheet when I'm back on the computer.

I'm running F:6kg, R:5kg with my BC BR's and it's good on the street. I went with these custom rates rather than the standard F:8kg, R:6kg that they normally come with. I'd say 10kg spring rates are for track only, it's never going to be good on our roads unfortunately...

Holy crap that's a lot of car for the money!! GLWS

Hi Adam, sorry I'm not sure of the specifics you're asking about, hopefully someone else here knows. All I know is that coupe and sedan tail shafts are different, and manual and auto ones are different. However, it's possible to combine them in various ways by the looks of things.

Thanks GTSBoy, I'll start from there! I wouldn't be surprised either since the tailshaft is a combination of my R34 sedan rear half and an R33 coupe front half from the wreckers. Just a couple of more observations from today: This seems to come from behind the driver i.e. centre bearing, diff, or drive shafts. Centre bearing is currently the prime suspect. This seems to be more in the front side so clutch or the gearbox itself. I reckon it's the latter. I'm not too fussed about this one but the clunk on gear change is more annoying so need to get that sorted.

Resurrecting an old thread. I'm experiencing some play in the driveline after my recent manual conversion, two different types: There's a slight but noticeable 'clunk' on gear change (clutch-in). This happens most of the time but not always, and doesn't seem to be related to a specific gear or speed. This is the one I'd like to get fixed. There's also slight 'slack' when changing over from accel to decel or vice versa. This feels quite similar to other manual cars I've driven but I'm not sure how 'tight' it's meant to be with an RB25DET gearbox? I had a look under the car, I could rotate the front part of the tail shaft probably 2mm by hand, the rear part was harder to move. This is with the car in gear and handbrake on. Which part of the driveline should I look at first? What's the best way to check the condition of the tail shaft centre bearing?

The shop who did my conversion just reused the original auto crossmember and gearbox mount with the manual box. We used an R33 coupe tailshaft front part mated to the rear section of my R34 auto sedan, works well. Hope this helps.

Or go all Camaro on it: (via Speedhunters) Sorry couldn't resist...

Would you be doing all the work yourself? Then maybe, just. Otherwise, not worth it. I got my 34 auto converted to manual, it runs great but chasing the parts and even a workshop who was willing to do the conversion was a major headache. Expensive, too. Save up, sell yours, and then buy what you actually want

(via Speedhunters)

No worries, I'll keep looking

Is this the manual shifter trim (part below on the right)? If so, I'm keen, and might also grab the triple gauge cluster.

Black 32 GTR at Etihad this arvo with BBGTR plates. Looked mean with the half cage and all.

Different car but still relevant, I had lowered King Springs with standard shocks on my R34 GTT for about a year and the ride quality was ... shocking (pardon the pun). Very crashy. The shocks also started leaking before long as they operated outside the designated area with the lowered springs. So in short, if you're going lower springs, get shorter shocks to match, to maintain ride quality. I ended up going BC BR's with custom (softer) spring rates and difference with night and day, so much better than the OEM+King combo. I priced up a set of aftermarket shocks only, to go with the Kings, and they weren't much cheaper than the BC's... Just my $0.02

Thanks guys! I might order one without the flanges and get it custom mounted when I get the exhaust tucked up...

Thread resurrect. How do you guys go with ground clearance using the 5" Venom cat? I'm tempted to get one for my R34 GTT but I'm already scraping the smaller X-Force high flow (ceramic) I've got in there...

PM sent.

+1000. Stuff conversions. All I did was auto-to-manual my GTT, which is pretty darn simple compared to +T'ing a GT, and it was a total headache. I'm happy with it now but it's not worth the trouble. Also, since these cars are worth peanuts these days, unless you have the tools, skills, time and space to do it yourself you're going to spend a big chunk of the value of your car on parts & labour to get stuff done properly. I know I have.

I saw this drive past in Docklands the other day, looks tidy from the outside and sounds good. Not sure about the green inserts inside though GLWS

That really really sucks Greg (I think the 'easiest' option, if you can get over the heartbreak, would be to lift the gear into another chassis as you say... There's a GTT one going for <6K in the classifieds) Anyway, someone buy this engine, glws.

Thanks guys! I've just contacted Venom to check availability and price of the biggest 200 CPSI bolt-on cat they have with 3" flanges. Good idea, thanks Scott. I just had another look at it and there's at least an inch and a bit of space above the cat & mid muffler, I better take it to an exhaust shop. Just out of curiosity, why are resonators crap?

Or at least get them flow tested Cheap insurance.

If it's breaking down at higher RPMs, check your CAS. That's what caused my severe misfire: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/326043-resolved-misfire-in-r34-gtt-rb25det-neo/

Thanks Ryno! Any other recommendations for resonators or cats?