V28VX37

More questions. I started collecting the required parts but need to clarify a couple more things from anyone who's done this: 1. Can I reuse my original auto gearbox mount and cross member with the manual box? Both are R34. 2. Can I reuse my original auto shifter trim and just add a leather gaiter for the manual shifter? The cutout in the manual trim seems a bit bigger (see photos below), I'm just wanting to make sure that there's enough space for the shifter to move. 3. There's a fair bit of tar and grime inside the bellhousing of the manual gearbox that's going in and it's sitting pretty tight, what's the best way to clean that up? Thanks guys!

382 rwkw, whoa! Well done!! Do I spot a standard airbox as well? If so, that's unbelievable.

I've got the ATR43SS2 (i.e. not a high flow) and it works well with my slightly tweaked JJR dump. However the IWG part of the housing is probably a bit different to the OP6. Here's a post on shaving the JJR flange, not sure if that helps: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/?p=6590457

Quick question to anyone who's done this conversion, how did you go about notifying VicRoads? Did you just send out a form or did they need to sight the car?

Just in case anyone else is looking I have some more information on this. I spoke with VicRoads and as per their 'Guide to Modifications for Motor Vehicles' no engineering certificate (VASS) is required if the replacement transmission was available as a factory option i.e. is from the same make and model, and there are no structural changes to the vehicle. To notify VicRoads, what you need to do is fill the 'Change of vehicle details' form. HOWEVER apparently you need to take the form in personally, and the vehicle needs to be sighted (I thought not)... Has anyone done this in recent years, how involved is this process?

Nice. Love the sign on the wall 'Remember To Clean!'

Looking good. Is the downpipe going with the new Holset?

Correct. BC BRs have both: two lock rings below the spring for preload and a third one further down against the bottom mount for ride height. In fact, I haven't seen a modern coilover that would have 1 adjustment only.

It cannot be unseen!! More here: BBC: In pictures: Uganda's 'Pimp My Ride' garage - 'Photos of vehicles remodelled to look like crocodiles'

I'm pretty sure the preload is set to the standard (4mm-ish?) from factory. If not, here's how to do it: I did this when I replaced one of my rear inserts and it doesn't feel any different to the other side so assuming I did it right

Did you look at their site? http://www.deatschwerks.com/resources/fuel-injector-tech My 800cc DeatschWerks (older style) for the Neo are a complete drop-in replacement, no mucking around required.

Still available.

Still available.

Of course, makes sense. I'm keen on getting an R34 box to have all parts from the same era, although clutches will be more expensive: ~$600 R33 vs. ~$750 for an NPC organic that should hold around 300rwkw. That's a good point. If possible, I'd also prefer a recent part-out as opposed to having had the parts sitting on the shelf for months/years. Thanks for the tip, good to know!

How'd you get on with this Deathvalley? I called Advanced Jap Auto again this week and apparently they have recently sold their last conversion kit so back to the drawing board. I can't find anyone else in Melb who would do a drive-in-drive-out job, so I'm now thinking I'll need to collect the parts off eBay and/or forums and just get someone to do the install. Might save a couple of $ but more messy that way..

Ok I'm looking to do this conversion sometime in the near future (R34 GTT Tiptronic sedan) and need to start collecting parts. Can someone who's done this confirm if this is a complete list of everything: Clutch (new, to suit box) with lines, master and slave cylinders, reservoir, pedal Flywheel (machined) with bolts Gearbox (turbo R33 or R34) with bolts, rubber and mounts, sandwich plate, sensors Manual spigot bush Pedals: clutch, brake, assembly Shifter Tailshaft (front part, R33 or R34 should do) From this thread and elsewhere my understanding is that Auto ECU will be fine (mine's got Nistune so I don't want to have to redo that) and there's no need to change instrument cluster, steering wheel, or diff either - does that sound right? Also, is there such a thing as a trans cooler for/with the manual gearbox? If so, can I just re-plumb the existing auto trans cooler for this, or no? (I've got a slightly bigged Davies Craig unit). Thanks!

Yep 'kms per tank' is not a reliable measure, you'll want to work out l/100km, preferably over time. All you need to do is fill up full each time and take note of the odometer. There's some useful comparison figures in this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/436056-fuel-economy-for-250rwkw/ - I'm getting anywhere between 10 and 16 l/100km depending on type and style of driving (~260 rwkw).

Is this a turbo box? What km's approximately?

I was just spectating on the Friday gone, it was a pretty good turnout, lots or Skylines running and some pretty decent numbers too. Btw Calder is traditionally shocking at cancelling stuff at the last minute (we hiked up the other week for nothing), so make sure you call to confirm on the day, the number and other info here: http://www.calderparkdragracing.com.au/

Why not get a factory AWD and save yourself the hassle of a transplant? Namely, R34 25GT GT-Four with RB25DE, if you specifically want N/A and four wheel drive. They have 200hp/147kw completely stock.

Why stop at doors when you can also do the bonnet:

Thanks Scott. I'm only asking because the Blitz dual solenoid has clearly marked In and Out, just want to make sure it'll be connected 100% correct. EDIT: Another question for you Scott: I assume I can keep the stock solenoid wired in (electrical) even with the hoses removed? This shouldn't confuse the ECU/Nistune, should it?

^^^ With the stock solenoid, top connector = IN, bottom = OUT – Can anybody confirm?

Some photos below of how the boot lip looks after I changed my mind about the colour. Couple of tips for anyone wanting to mount theirs properly: Make sure the fit is good before priming and painting. I ended up sanding back the inside middle section for a better fit before repainting the whole thing... Do not go anywhere near the edges with Sikaflex. On the first go I went maybe 10-15mm from the edges and a fair bit squirted out, it's a prick to clean. Second time 20mm or so away and it was pretty good all around. Also, do not try this on a 40 degree day like I did the first time around, it will not cure properly. Second time I used 2 ratchet straps to pull the lip forwards and down at each end, plus a plank sideways across the whole lip, held down but clamps at each end. Let it sit for 48 hours. Much better. Oh and I didn't find any way to get a proper glossy finish at home (black or coloured, with or without clear coat), I reckon you need to bake the paint for that. Oh well.

This is interesting, as they seem happy to add almost anything to be listed on the policy... thanks for sharing, good to know.