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Have a read of this over at LS1: E85: A Long Term Evaluation. Based on his data, over about two years, the cost per km of running E85 was pretty much identical to running PULP. However that was posted in October last year so prices (and how they compare) will have changed again since.

1. Reduced range 2. Need to map out access to fuel for road trips Other than that probably not a lot. Awesome power gains and other benefits.

Not bad! Turns out I didn't do the best job with sikaflexing the boot lip and it started coming apart at one end Anyhow I pulled it off and spent an afternoon cleaning up the polyurethane ... and ended up painting the lip body colour whilst it was off the car It's yet to go back on, will post a photo once it's done.

Thanks! I'm still trying to work out which connector on the stock solenoid is 'in' and which is 'out', anyone know? Also, where's the 'in' line to the stock solenoid connected to, in the standard setup?

I'm guessing it's the same as the 34 - if so the metal cup will come off once you loosen the two nuts. I'm not sure what the point of it is, I've left mine off with the coilovers.

No worries, it was $179 plus postage from Just Jap. Easy to change too, all original parts bolted straight on.

I had the same issue in 2010, it was a bastard to diagnose. Basically boosting up but then breaking down in the upper RPM range, exactly the same as with OP, although on a stock car. Good to hear it's sorted - very tidy power figure too btw!

Sorry mate don't have the full specs but I do know that the shock body length for the rear inserts is 360mm for R34 and 340mm for R33. Also anyone else reading this thread, I just replaced one of my rear BC BR's (insert only) as it started squeaking after 18,000 kms. I'm running lower spring rates (F:6, R:5) on my R34 sedan, not sure if that was a contributing factor. Otherwise still very happy with the ride quality.

Thanks! So by the looks of things, the line that currently runs into the manual boost controller (from between manifold and BOV) should go to the Blitz controller (i.e. vacuum source). Can someone confirm which connector is IN and which is OUT in the stock solenoid? I've currently got the bottom hose disconnected (uncapped), I'm guessing that could be the actuator line? See pics below.

Also, the controller needs a vacuum source, what's the best point to get this?

I thought I'd resurrect this thread rather than starting a new one. An EBC seems pretty easy to install but I've got a couple of questions as I haven't done one before. I just got a second hand Blitz Dual-SBC Spec R EBC (thanks fantov!) to replace the current boost controller, a TurboTech V2, on my R34 GTT. This is the Blitz that comes with the big black dual solenoid box: My current manual boost controller is tee'd off between the intake manifold and stock BOV, with the out pipe running to the turbo actuator. Do I just replace it with the new solenoid? The Blitz manual also says the following: Where's the stock solenoid? Will disconnecting this upset my ECU or Nistune? Also, if I was to set the EBC close to the same setting as my manual boost controller (around 17psi), would it work ok without touching up the tune? Or is this kind of thing best done on the dyno? I don't have a boost gauge in the car and certainly don't want to overboost it... The Blitz manual is available here. Thanks and sorry about all the newbie questions

Good idea, did you have to pull them out for that? I'm thinking black bonnet now too, although that could be a step too far...

Thanks!

Check your CAS: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/326043-resolved-misfire-in-r34-gtt-rb25det-neo/

Hehe, they are painted black, I wanted the contrast against the silver

Still available, let's say $70. Great for your missile car:

Still available, let's say $70. Great for your missile car:

Managed to get this done over the weekend, the prep was a bit tedious and I managed to get Sikaflex all over the place when mounting but it turned out alright. I might do a proper write up later on. Here's some quick shots prior to any wash/wax/polish, I'm hoping to get a bit more gloss once that's done: EDIT: Does anyone know where to get a decent high mount brake light for the rear window? I don't think a parcel shelf one will work as it's obscured by the rear wiper...?

Cool thanks Chris. The theory is that low volts potentially cause the immobiliser to think that it's being disconnected, then cutting off the engine. It's a prick of an issue though, hopefully the auto elec can find the root cause.

I had the alarm shop have a look at it, they're not too sure either what it could be They disconnected the immobiliser circuit temporarily and it didn't stall since, although that is inconclusive and needs more testing. One issue they picked up is that apparently the battery voltage is dropping whilst the car is running. This is obviously not right - could it be a faulty alternator afterall? Any other ideas? I've got it booked with an auto electrician but they've got a week's queue so keen to try something else in the meantime if I can...

... aaaaand the issue is back, which sucks big time. I stalled in the turning lane couple of times today, not fun It only seems to happen when idling and stationary. I think there may be multiple issues, here's a couple of further observations: There's a slight misfire on idle (has been for quite some time) and on one occasion a stall coincided with this. I ended up putting the car in Park at traffic lights and holding up the revs slightly (800 -> 1000rpm) and this got me home. More load on the engine increases the chances of a stall (power steering, headlights). When the car stalls it sometimes dies completely. No alarm led blinking, no hazard lights, AC and trip meters all reset. The alarm siren goes but very faintly?! It can usually be brought back after a while and a few attempts but obviously this is not safe in traffic. I'm taking it back to the alarm shop for diagnostics but I'm not convinced that they'll be able to fix it all I feel that there may be something amiss with the immobiliser, and another semi-related electrical issue as well. I'm terms of electronics, here's what's been added/changed over the years: Alarm/immobiliser ECU: Nistune board New coils (Yellow Jackets) and spark plugs Z32 AFM Fuel pump with rewire and relay Injectors Oh yes - there's one other thing: When I bought the car it had the radio fuse removed. When it's back in, the (AM) radio works but the factory navigation system behaves erratically: the screen sometimes pops up by itself and shows a cryptic error message in Japanese. This car was obviously optioned with the JDM GPS from factory instead of the triple gauge cluster. So it could almost anything ... Any suggestions on where to start & what to try? I'll probably end up taking the car an auto electrician in addition to the alarm shop, just want to see if there's any pointers I should give them. Thanks!

That ^^^ is fantastic!!! Such a minimalist clean look, well done! Custom body kit I presume? Have you got a link to the full spec list? Ai niin, terveiset Melbournesta

I'm pretty sure all these lens cleaning kits are based on sanding back the lenses.

You've checked and/or replaced your battery yeah? And that alternator is giving 14V plus when running?

Measure the bar diameter and get some Super Pro replacements. You might even find some at Repco/Supercheap/Autobarn.