V28VX37

Interesting, thanks for the update. I've sought quotes from a couple of other places but haven't heard back much, I don't think many workshops are overly keen on conversions... If you decide to go ahead with it test and make sure all mechanical and electrical features work 100% after the conversion: ABS, TCS, VCT, custom tune, boost control, speedo, air con, alarm, low idle 800rpm, no warning lights in dash etc.

Thanks mate. Any suggestions on how to prep and paint the FRP material properly?

So my Origin boot lip and roof wing arrived from Japan via Streeter this week, yay! What's the recommended way to prep these things? It's glossy black FRP, I saw somewhere that a light sand, primer and paint (maybe two coats) is all you need, is that right? What about mounting them? Double sided tape, polyurethane, sikaflex, something else - what do you use? I'd prefer something that can come off a couple of years later without ruining the paint/glass.. The roof wing is a solid fit against the rear glass, the boot lip is ok but may need a bit of sanding in the middle to sit tight. With the colour, I'm thinking of going gloss black for both, to kind of complement my matte black front lip (and the awse weather shields : This is pretty close to what I'm after (from JDMST): The alternative is body colour, it's classier but I kind of like the drift look above: What says you?

Interesting, thanks for this tips. So there isn't much else one can do besides trusting the seller's word that it's a good condition box? What does a recondition cost?

I think you mean 1900 for the conversion kit, including the gearbox? Indeed, there's quite a few parts that are needed for this. The lack of warranty is a concern, but then again it's a used box... Hmm. I wonder if anyone does gearbox inspections in Melb? More $$ again though but I'd really hate put a busted box in and pay for the box and labour twice.

My quote was with an R34 gearbox so I'd assume Deathvalley's is the same, but good to check.

Thanks for your input everyone. It pretty much confirms what I thought - would be neat but way to exxy to be feasible at the moment. I think there's some hope though, if you look at the dual clutch gearbox supplier list on Wikipedia there's heaps in production. No doubt in a few years there will be more to choose from. There's something in the idea of mating a 15-20 year old RB to the latest in gearbox tech

Yes, you need to notify VicRoads. If your make/model came with that gearbox from factory (as is the case) that's I as far I know - no engineering, inspection etc. required. Can someone else confirm this though? No worries, will do. Let us know if you end up getting this done at Advanced and how you go.

Yep that's pretty much it. Give em a call to confirm what's included, the number's on their website. Also as said I haven't had this done yet, just seeking quotes, so can't vouch for any one workshop as yet.

$175 plus shipping, not too bad.

Excluding clutch. But yeah I was quoted just over that.

Advanced Jap Auto Imports (not Just Jap) quoted me just over 2.5k supplied and fitted, plus you'll need to get a new clutch. So you'll be looking at 3-3.5k all up depending on what you go for, it's a fair chunk. I'm still sitting on the fence on this myself - a shift kit could be 'just' 1k but if the auto needs a full rebuild it'll cost just as much as the manual conversion. Plus the SS2 turbo I have does not feel like an ideal match with the auto, so I'm very tempted to go manual still...

I'd say it will hard to find low kms/decent condition stock shocks in 2014. You might be better off getting some entry level OEM replacement shocks (like KYB or Monroe perhaps) and mate them with stock springs. Good luck.

PM sent

All I wanted was 10,000 RPM but this is all I got:

Ok this is a flight of fancy more than anything else but does anyone know of a successful dual clutch gearbox transplant into a Skyline? It would be a major undertaking with a lot of custom work (read: cost prohibitive) but would be very interesting to see nonetheless. I had a quick look at eBay and you can get some second hand Porsche PDK units from around $5k in the US. Used DSG boxes from VW seem to start at around $3k - not that those would take 300rwkw without some serious work. But yeah 200ms shift times would be sweet

I sprayed the damper shaft with a bit of silicone spray lubricant from WD-40. It's fixed the squeak but the shock is still making a scuffing noise, so I'll be replacing it. Back on topic, make sure you get the right lenght insert if you order a replacement for your BC BR's. My original shock body is 360mm and the new insert is only 340mm so now I have to send it back to get the correct one, grrr.

Ok so I did the following: Bypass the immobiliser as per alarm's instructions Reprogram the remote Change remote battery Check ground connections in engine bay So far so good, the car starts and runs fine. My best guess is that a dead main battery is the root cause. I reckon it also upset the alarm a bit as I think there's another battery in there somewhere that perhaps wasn't charging properly due to the main battery issue. Anyhow, all good for now.

Thanks, I'll try one of those and report back

Ok one source says to only use 'light liquid silicone spray lube' for this and not anything petroleum based... I've got some CRC Dry Glide with PTFE, I wonder if that would work?

Whoa, nope, never thought of that! Will any type of oil do (e.g. engine oil)? I'll definitely give that a go, thanks Scotty. Ps. Replacement inserts are $175 in case anyone else is looking. I just got one ready to go in.

Thanks I'll check that out.

I spent the afternoon installing Rhino Lip ($34 off ebay) on my R34, it turned out alright. I quite like the material, it seems tough enough but still compliant so you can get it to follow the shape of the front bar. Apologies for the crappy photos.

Hi all, I've got an aftermarket immobiliser in my R34 GTT that has all the usual features like keyless entry, turbo timer etc. I've had it for several years. I've been having a sporadic but severe issue with the car over the past couple of days: I sometimes cannot disarm the immobiliser at all. The alarm light (the little blinking led) goes dead and it doesn't react to remote in any way. I also cannot start the car with the Nissan key, it doesn't even crank. I also had the car stall on me once when stationary, which is pretty annoying in an auto. Again it wouldn't deimmobilise straight away but I finally got it going. I think my battery was on it's way out anyway so I bought and installed a brand new battery today, with slightly higher capacity too. I drove the car for a bit after installing it and it cranked really well. However, when I tried to start it the second time later on, same thing again - the alarm light was dead and I couldn't disarm it. I disconnected the new battery again, let it sit for half an hour or so, and managed to get it going. So I have ruled out the battery now and my multimeter is reporting 14V+ voltage at the battery terminals when the car is running, so it shouldn't be the alternator either. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this further? What else should I check? Is it possible that a bad/old battery could have fried the alarm somehow when it was running out of current? Also can anyone recommend a good auto elec in the inner or northern subs who knows Skylines well? Thanks guys.

Cool, thanks for that.