V28VX37
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Everything posted by V28VX37
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Yeah I realise that Been in touch with MV auto in the past, a full rebuild with goodies is pricey.
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Still looking
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Still for sale -
Bump
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Bump
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Aluminium/tig Welder For Intercooler Bracket In Melbourne
V28VX37 replied to V28VX37's topic in Fabrication
Thanks tonka_18, will do. -
Hi all, Looks like I've managed to crack the bottom mounting bracket on my Trust intercooler. Can you recommend anyone in Melbourne (inner or north) who could weld a new bracket on? It's aluminium as per the pics below so I think you need some decent equipment to weld it back on...? Cheers
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Well it's like most mods, the manufacturer takes no responsibility when used in a road car so up to you. Check the regulations in your state.
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Bump
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Wheel Spacer Size For R34 Gtt Stockies?
V28VX37 replied to V28VX37's topic in Exterior & Interior Styling
Just in case anyone is curious I'm running these 20mm ebay spacers: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Pair-5-Stud-20mm-Thick-5x114-3mm-PCD-M12xP1-25-Nissan-Wheel-Spacers-Drift-Race-/200901360401?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec6a77b11 Couple of tips from my wheel alignment joint: 1) the wheel nuts that come with the spacers go on the original wheel studs, 2) use loctite on them. -
Make sure you get hub centric spacers, like these from gktech: http://www.gktech.com/index.php/5x114-3-25mm-hub-centric-spacers.html I'm running some 20mm ebay ones to push my stock GTT wheels out a bit, no problems whatsoever: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Pair-5-Stud-20mm-Thick-5x114-3mm-PCD-M12xP1-25-Nissan-Wheel-Spacers-Drift-Race-/200901360401?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec6a77b11 Couple of tips from my wheel alignment joint: 1) the wheel nuts that come with the spacers go on the original wheel studs, 2) use loctite on them. Good luck.
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Ttt
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Still looking if anyone's got a quality built box.
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$80 pick up, get in quick!
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Still for sale, $99 ono.
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That sounds strange. I did mine as tight as I could with a medium size ratchet, which did not restrict the movement at all as I can recall. Yeah that's what I would have thought. Imports Only, if it doesn't feel right what I would suggest is pulling the arm out and checking the crush tube measurements against the OEM part. It only needs to be a fraction of a mm short to cause what you're describing. I have little faith left in cheapie aftermarket parts given my experience with the SRI rods...
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I've got a near-new pair of SRI pillowball tension rods for sale. I bought these unused to suit R33/R34 and had them on the car for just over 2000km but the noise drove me crazy so I've replaced them with rubber bushed rods. The ball joints are fine but the crush tubes are not a snug fit around the standard bolts on my R34 (full story). Anyway, here's what you can do to address this: Pray that they fit as is, or Get some custom bolts, or Get better two part crush tubes lathed, or Add sleeves, or Never lift & you'll never hear the knock. You're welcome to inspect thoroughly before buying, BYO bolts. You can get these around $150 new + postage, I'm asking a mere $99. Pick up only, Melb inner north. PM if keen.
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I just put the Hardrace ones in over the weekend, they're just as smooth as the OEM rubber bushed ones but adjustable. Winning. Moral of the story: Check (bolt) tolerances before putting your aftermarket parts in the car. Saves a lot of hassle. Here's how the three alternatives compare (SRI, Hardrace, OEM): Hardrace installed:
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ttt
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Good to hear! Yeah mine might be the wrong type, or just a bad batch, who knows. Anyway I've given up on them and just bought a pair of Hardrace rubber bushed adjustable rods, same as the blue ones in this pic (from this thread). I hope their tolerances are better, will keep you posted.
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Underground Hero : Love To Hate Me - Lamborghini Bosozoku 暴走族 Yakuza Japan.
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Just putting this out there in case anyone is selling their R34/Stagea auto after a manual conversion: Looking to buy a fully built Tiptronic auto gearbox to suit an R34 GTT (RB25DET Neo, 1998 model): RE4R01B Tiptronic gearbox Must be built to handle at least 300 rwkw Stage 2 shift kit (MV Auto, KEAS or equivalent) 2nd gear billet servo New clutches/bands and solenoids High stall (optional) Trans cooler (optional) The box must be built by an auto specialist and come with a receipt with full specifications. Let me know how many kms on the box all up & since rebuild. Recent build preferred (2012/2013) and not really interested in anything from a write-off. Looking in VIC at this stage for easier inspection and pickup. PM me what you've got & where, reason for sale, and what you're after for it. Thanks!
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Yep I reckon that's the way to go. Thanks for your help mate.
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Ok so I pulled the SRI radius rods out and put the OEMs back in, no more noise. Therefore, the camber arms are fine, lucky that. The diagnosis is that the radius rods either have the wrong type crush tubes, or the the product is just no good. I had a proper look this time with the parts out and there's maybe a 0.5mm difference in the crush tube bore diameter between the SRI bits and the OEM one. In the photos below you can see how the taped up bolt goes through the aftermarket crush tube no worries but doesn't fit inside the original one. The way the aftermarket rods are put together there are several possible causes for slack and noise due to bad tolerances: Between the bolt and the crush tube – this is the biggest worry Between the two-part crush tube and the inside of the rose joint – this doesn't feel 100% tight either, and having the crush tube in two separate parts doesn't help The ball swivel itself – this feels ok I will contact the supplier but if there's no fix I'll just get rubber bushed aftermarket rods instead. What a PITA for such a simple upgrade, not to mention having to re-align yet again... ... For future reference, the R34 GTT '98 radius rod bolt specs are as follows (see photo below): 14mm stem section – length 56mm 12mm tip section – length about 40mm total length 100mm
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^^^ interesting, I never thought of that. If the radius rod bolt is not a 100% fit maybe the same goes for the the upper arm bolts too ... I better check em. That would definitely cause a clonk on braking/accelerating. There's gotta be a better way to 'thicken' bolts than electrical tape though Additional metal sleeves perhaps, or custom crush tubes. Edit: I just remembered that there's different versions of the radius rods for S14/S15/R33/R34 and S13/A31/Z32/R32 - I wonder if I've got the wrong type??
