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V28VX37

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Everything posted by V28VX37

  1. V28VX37
    (Double post)
  2. V28VX37
    Yeah I know, read a lot about the increased NVH before I put them in... What I don't get though is why the front camber arms should be that noisy, it's only the inner (chassis) bushes that change from the factory rubber bushes to polyurethane. There are no rose joints and the main bushing in the upright is still the original rubber one. Who knows.. I think what I'll do next is put back the OEM radius rod on one side and see if that silences it, just to work out which part is at fault.
  3. V28VX37
    Cool, thanks man, keep us posted. In my case it feels that there's definitely more play at the outer end of the bolt, that's why I tried taping it up. But yeah I'll see if I can organise a replacement bolt from somewhere and post an update. There's also the possibility that it's not the radius rods but the camber arms instead that are being noisy ... I probably wouldn't have bothered with the aftermarket gear had I know what a pain they can be
  4. V28VX37
    That's strange if yours is different. I bought the car bog stock with zero mods so it's fairly unlikely these bolts only would've been swapped from something else, especially since they line up perfectly inside the OEM rods and crush tubes... Perhaps R34's has different bolts in different versions or model years, who knows? Anyhow, off to the bolt shop, or a machinist if it comes to that..
  5. V28VX37
    Ok, here's some photos. You can see that the second part of the crush tube is unsupported by the bolt about 1/3 of its length, and some play is quite clearly evident. You can also see my electrical tape hack job in the last photo (no issue sliding those in) - unfortunately it seems that it didn't fix the noise issue fully either Next up I'm going to try to find some new bolts, however this may be tough as the OEM bolts are different diameter at each end - I wonder if the bolt holes are different sizes too..?
  6. V28VX37
    Yep I'm using original bolts, that's the issue. The original bolts are thinner at the other end (with a respective narrowing inside the bushing of the OEM radius rod), however the hole through the aftermarket joint is straight so the bolt is not snug at the other end. The rear bolts were supplied with the new rods but not the fronts.
  7. V28VX37
    I think I may have found the culprit ... pulled out one of the rods last night and turns out the front bolt is tapered, a bit thinner at the other end. This means that it wasn't sitting tight through the ball joint. As a temporary fix I put some electrical tape around the thin end of the bolt and it finally silent. I'll post some photos later. Has anyone else had this problem with aftermarket radius rods? Where should I look for straight (non-tapered) replacement bolts?
  8. V28VX37
    Oh well the clunking/knocking in the front is really starting to s__t me now. I have checked everything again and it's all tight. It's noisy at slow speeds when braking and accelerating, a very clear knock when changing from one to the other. It's not noisy at bumps. All I can think of is that the radius rod pillowball joints are somehow stuffed. Is there any way to work out whether it's the camber arms OR the radius rods, without starting to pull stuff out??
  9. V28VX37
    Interesting, so maybe 600cc injectors are more than enough for ~300rwkw. Any further experiences either way anyone?
  10. V28VX37
    Awesome, thanks guys!! Ok so it sounds like the 850cc injectors are a better bet to have some headroom in the future. I assume there's no difference in fuel consumption between 600cc and 850cc if tuned correctly? With the metal intake pipe, without going all custom I can't find anything except for the CAPP53 here ($135). However, they say that "You will need a smaller aftermarket pod filter and BOV though" on a GTT, really? Not keen on changing the bov if I can help it. 1.5k fitted and tuned, ok... I could do the intake stuff myself but not so keen on touching the fuel system or turbo so I better pay someone who know's what they're doing. Great summary, thanks! Where did you get your intake pipe from? Are you running a pod or the original airbox? Re supporting mods, the exhaust is a 3" HKS Super Drager with JJR bellmouth and a high flow cat so it should be fine (the 2.5" was a typo). It's also got a Trust return flow cooler and Yellow Jacket coils on already. Cyifly - I'm in Melb.
  11. V28VX37
    Ok I am slowly putting together a shopping list, which currently looks like this: $1470 - HyperGear ATR43-SS1PU OR SS2 Turbocharger (Nissan Rb25det OEM upgrade) $88 - Braided oil feeding line - HyperGear $671 - DeatschWerks Fuel Injector Set 600cc OR 850cc (Nissan RB25DET NEO 98-02) - GCG $210 - Bosch 040 High Capacity Fuel Pump - Just Jap $299 - Genuine Bosch Z32 Air Flow Meter - Just Jap $99 - JJR Silicone Induction Pipe (Nissan Skyline ECR33/ER34) $10 - JJR Stainless Mesh Air Filter - Universal $1,000+? - Fit and (re)tune So about 4k all up, ouch Couple of questions: Intake: Is the JJR Silicone Induction Pipe good enough for a 280rwkw application? If not, where would I get a direct fit metal intake pipe that doesn't need a lot of hacking to install on an R34 GTT? Airbox: Could I still run the stock airbox + snorkel + K&N panel filter or is it too restrictive? I'm not a big fan of a pod filter if I can avoid it. Injectors: What kind of power range do 600cc/850cc ones support? Is there such a thing as 'too big' injectors? I'm not planning on running E85. Thanks!
  12. V28VX37
    Ok thanks. I have gone through everything previously (cos it was noisy) and made sure everything was super tight, but will check once more.
  13. V28VX37
    Yeah mate full alignment, castor in the 6.5-7 range and neg camber about -1.25 rear/-1.6 front. I'm happy with the settings. I've heard that ball joints won't last as long but are they meant to be fairly noisy brand new, too?
  14. V28VX37
    I ended up zip-tieing the plastic inner guard lining in front of the wheels and it's much better now, no more jarring. There's also a little plastic 'ridge' on the rear side that you just push in for a tiny bit more clearance. I'm still getting a slight knock/clunk from the front, typically when maneuvering at slow speeds (stop/start). I'm guessing this might be the radius rod ball joint, which has close to no bushing compared to the massive rubber bush in the OEM rod, does this sound right? I knew that aftermarket arms & rods are meant to be noisier, but how noisy is too noisy? Another question too: The bolts connecting the aftermarket radius rods to the LCAs are maybe 1mm smaller than the holes in the LCAs, so they're not snug. The bolts came with the kit and fit the holes in the radius rods snugly though, so they're the right part. Could this cause some additional NVH?
  15. V28VX37
    I ended up zip-tieing the plastic inner guard lining in front of the wheels and it's much better now, no more jarring. There's also a little plastic 'ridge' on the rear side that you just push in for a tiny bit more clearance.
  16. V28VX37
    This sounds fantastic. Any thoughts on timeframes as yet?
  17. V28VX37
    I'm wondering about this too. Currently the ATR43-SS1PU – which I believe is an FNT unit – looks like the most interesting option for what I'm after. Is there going to be a 'ATR43-SS1PU-VNT', and how would it potentially compare to the current unit? Or, could you possibly go a bigger profile e.g. SS2 with VNT and still achieve a similar response as with the current SS1PU...?
  18. V28VX37
    Looks great! Which material did you end up using, the softer foamy stuff or the hard rubbery one? Where'd you get it from? Cheers
  19. V28VX37
    I've got BC BR RS 6/5 and they're great for the street. I just looked up the difference on the UK site between RS and RA. It seems that the cheaper RS (which is what I run) has rubber top mounts for both front and rear, whereas the slightly more expensive RA has pillowball top for front and rubber or none for the rear. I assume the pillowball top has camber adjustment on MacPherson struts, so it's of no use with our double wishbones. Go the RS's.
  20. V28VX37
    Quick question - since installing these (together with 20mm spacers) I am experiencing slight knocking/jarring at full lock e.g. when shuffling around to park. I have done a quick check of clearances, the tyres don't appear to touch and I can't see any marks anywhere ... Has anyone else had similar, I wonder what it could be?
  21. V28VX37
    Quick question - since installing the spacers (together with adjustable upper control arms and radius rods) I am experiencing slight knocking/jarring at full lock e.g. when shuffling around to park. I have done a cursory check of clearances, the tyres don't seem to touch and I can't see any marks anywhere ... Has anyone else had similar, I wonder what it could be?
  22. V28VX37
    Finally got around to installing these, wasn't too bad. Cracking the nuts and measuring the original arms/rods & setting up the new parts to match were the hardest parts. Good long breaker bar is your friend. One tip for anyone doing this is to keep in mind that the LCA and wishbone drop really far down without the front coilover in place. Therefore only tighten the top front bolt properly after the coilover's back in. Otherwise the original rubber bush will be under a lot of tension when the car is dropped down. Here's how the arms look installed: Adjustable front upper camber arms (from this skylineowner.com thread): Adjustable front radius rods/tension rods (from this skylineowners.com thread): Adjustable rear camber arms (from this skylineowner.com thread): Hope this helps.
  23. V28VX37
    Thanks mate - yes I've got BC BR's on but they're not super stiff. Might look into rolling the guards just in case.. The spacers are off ebay, exactly the same specs as the GKtech's except for the stud length. The quality seems good, and a very good price. I didn't want extended studs as I want to be able to put the centre caps back on, otherwise would have gone the GK's. 40mm, that's some serious flaring, put up some pics when it's done
  24. V28VX37
    Ok.... finally got around to this. Bought some 20mm hub centric spacers and put them in all four corners. What do you reckon, do I need to roll the guards? The car is not super low but the tyres are 'fatter' than most as they have the sidewall wheel guards that extend several mm past the rims (Eagle F1), and I'm wondering if they're going to rub under load...? Pics below, apologies for the filthy wheels. Fronts: Rears: Cheers
  25. V28VX37
    Ferrari F12 vs Lamborghini Aventador vs Aston Martin Vanquish - evo review:
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