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Hey mate have a look at my turnflow installation thread here. I've got the standard Series 1 front bar and gotta say the Nismo one looks a bit trickier... I used a standard angle grinder with a sanding disc for cutting and trimming, worked a treat. I first tried with a dremel and it was s__thouse. Good luck.

I do - looks great!! But then again I'm biased Looks like our mod lists are very similar, too. Mine's still auto though but has a tune (199rwkw...sooo close) and some suspension work. Btw mine was 150rwkw bog stock, around 175 with front mount and turbo back, and the last ~25 is from the boost controller & tune so well worth it. Keep up the good work!

Ok here's another HOLY ShIT one (via Speedhunters):

Hey have you got the part number for the swaybar? Just asking as it looks more like the front sway in the pics.

Thanks guys, glad you liked it! I'm looking forward to Part 2 as well. Format67 have done heaps of other cool videos too (check http://format67.net/ -> Work) but I reckon this one tops em all. Oh yeah and another +1 for Auto only video section.

A modified Lotus Exige S I'm guessing by the plates?

Spotted this on another forum, "We Write the Streets" video on the German/European import scene by Format67.net. Make sure you watch it in HD: Note: First minute is NSFW, jump to 1:00 and it's safe... Mods if you feel this is not appropriate or in the wrong section please feel free to remove. Enjoy!

...or just put some black Supercheap mesh in front of it. No painting required and doubles as a bug catcher. Here's how mine turned out: You can barely see the cooler in normal daylight:

Great video, thanks for posting! Some great points in there too.

Well I've now ordered a set of BR series in F:6kg / R:5kg, will let you know how they go...

Cheers Duncan, anyone in Melbourne you would recommend?

Thanks GTSBoy, sounds like I was on the right track. I'll probably do the inner bushes of the upper control arm and the radius arm on each side first (= 1 kit, yellow dots in the diagram above) and see how it goes & leave the outer bushes for later. I'll need to find a press somewhere though. Here's what the Whiteline instructions (pdf) say:

Hi all, I've got an R34 GTT sedan that's lowered and has too much negative camber in the rear, so I got some Fulcrum Superpro bushes to address this: 2 x SPF1869K "control arm upper-inner or outer eccentric bushing" kits: These kits didn't come with any instructions but as far as I understand they're pretty much identical to the Whiteline KCA347. I looked at the Whiteline instructions but I'm still not 100% clear on how to install these... Here's a diagram I sketched up, I hope I got the terminology right, let me know if not: Finally here's a pic of R34 GT-R rear suspension (from here): The questions: I assume the 1st kit (0.75deg) would replace bushes marked above in YELLOW, and 2nd kit (1.5deg) the bushes marked above in RED - is this correct? If I want to run about 30mm lowered is just 1 kit sufficient? Or would it make more sense to install both kits at the same time, for future adjustability? It sounds like the outer bushes are a massive pain to install... Do you need to pull both upper arms out completely to install the new bushes? How do you get the old bushes out and the new ones in? I've read about oxy torches and 10 ton presses, do you really need those kind of tools? I assume these cannot be adjusted by just any tyre joint, especially if the outer bushes are installed too? Can anyone recommend a good shop in inner Melbourne to adjust and/or install these? Thanks guys! Lastly some useful related threads: Install Issues With 2X Rear Camber Kits - super confused Fitting Rear Camber Kit For R33 KCA347 Whiteline Rear Camber Kit R33 - where does it goes? Stagea Suspension

That's a pretty decent size core for a stocker, almost 11 litres... Must have a suboptimal end tank design or something if it's considered no good.

Interesting discussion guys, thanks. So to recap on vertical flow intercoolers: Pros: Shorter air travel distance so less pressure drop and potentially better throttle response Efficient piping layout for return flow configuration (doesn't need long return pipe) No battery tray cutting as with non-return-flow coolers Cons: Potentially uneven flow & heat distribution End tank design is probably even more important than in horizontal flow coolers Rare For up to 300rwkw or so it probably doesn't matter what aftermarket cooler you pick though One thing that no one's mentioned is the shape of the core vs. the cutout in the front bar - i.e. the available cooler surface area vs. actual air flow. In other words, if only 70% of the cooler is exposed its efficiency is respectively reduced, correct? To address this I would have thought a thicker core with smaller dimensions is better than a larger but thinner one, no? And this obviously doesn't depend on whether it's horizontal or vertical flow. From my notes the overall core dimensions for the Trust are L=520mm, H=252mm, D=70mm so the individual cores would be 260 x 252 x 70mm (or 4.6l each). What size are those coolers, out of curiosity?

Hey guys, sorry for the late followup. The front bar and fog lights are standard R34 series 1 parts as far as I know - are yours different? Thanks mate, how did you go with the install?

It doesn't really matter either way with normal driving, I've run my Neo without for over half a year, no issues. Some people say you can be defected for running without, blah blah. I suppose it's whatever you feel comfortable with. Indeed, I've never heard any other engines have as many issues with the coils as the RBs... Oh well at least it's an easy swap.

Coil packs are a likely cause but not necessarily the only one. In my case we chased a similar issue for ages and it turned out to be a busted crank angle sensor (CAS) - ok at low revs but misfire & loss of power at top end. Have a read of this, it's got a bit of a checklist on what to look for: Resolved Misfire In R34 Gtt - Rb25det Neo It can certainly be sorted but can be a PITA as there are so many possible causes. Good luck.

Thanks Willis, that's a good tip. Any volunteers with a sedan on coilovers in Melbourne?

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I couldn't find a specific answer - like the original poster I'm looking for recommendations on suitable coilover spring rates for an R34 GT-T sedan. The car is street only, so I'm after good quality ride and comfort rather than outright handling (see my related thread here). I specifically want to avoid harsh/crashy ride. I'm currently considering BC Racing BR series coilovers that come with 8kg front and 6kg rear by default. To me that seems a bit high, especially as I will be upgrading the swaybars at the same time – F:28mm / R:25mm compared to stock F:22mm / R:18.5mm – so a fair bit thicker. These should control body roll pretty well so I should be able to go a bit softer on the springs, right? So back to the coilovers, I'm thinking something like F:6kg / R:5kg - is anyone running these rates on a sedan? What's the ride like? Thanks!

Thanks guys. I'm still a bit hesitant about the standard BC spring rates... I believe the King Springs I'm currently running are approximate 3.7/3.1 so going to 8/6 is twice as stiff, which sounds like a lot. I will be upgrading the swaybars at the same time – F:28mm / R:25mm compared to stock 22mm/18.5mm – so a fair bit thicker. These should control body roll pretty well so I should be able to go a bit softer on the springs, right? I'm still thinking 6/4, or perhaps 7/5 as a compromise...? Edit: Also, since it's a sedan, maybe the weight distribution is a bit better (more weight in rear = less nose heavy) – perhaps even 6/5 or 7/6 would work?

In metric these are: - Front: KDFL-101 X: 205 lbs per inch = 3.66 kg/mm - Rear: KDRL-61: 175 lbs per inch = 3.13 kg/mm Still haven't found rates for the OEM springs.

Thanks mlr, what did you end up paying for the Bilsteins, roughly? Lol @ the last comment too Thanks guys - I am starting to lean towards entry level coilovers now, have found the following prices: BC Racing V1 Design VS for ER34 $1149 at Just Jap (F:8kg, R:6kg) HSD HR-type coilovers for ER34 $1299 at Otomoto (F:8kg, R:7kg) What spring rates do people normally run on their R34 sedans? I'm thinking something fairly low, even 6/4, for comfort and ride quality. The current ride with King Springs and worn stock shocks is shit to be quite honest.

Hi Ash, do you reckon these would suit R34 GTT (rwd sedan) or is that just a bad idea? Finding mixed info on a few SAU threads...

Just got a quote from them today, good prices. They reckon KYBs are fine with lowered springs even though they're not a short shock. Now trying to decide between existing new KYBs w/ current King Springs vs. some second hand coilovers. Leaning towards the former as I'm more keen on comfort than super sharp handling... although height adjustment would be nice. Decisions, decisions.