V28VX37

Nice work, photos please! Surely you've already put in an order for full exhaust, some injectors and a fuel pump plus tune for a nice easy 300 rwkw+?? They're a great platform.

Just compress the middle coils, that should give you enough slack to get the top nut off. I used something similar to the SuperCheap tool and it worked fine on R34 GTT stock springs.

Umm, sorry to ask the obvious but you're holding the top of the strut still (above the nut) whilst trying to undo the nut yeah? Like this (from the coilovers thread): One of my front struts had the top bit cracked so I ended up sawing the strut in half to get the spring out, lol. Had I only had a pair of locking pliers... I then put the remaining top half in a vice and finally got the top nut off, just in case I need the strut top for something else later on.

Lol dude, both Zaver and s13_Skyline_inside mentioned something about chopping the fan (see quotes in my previous post above), just trying to confirm if that's really needed.

I think the consensus is around 0.7-0.8mm gap for stock/mild setups, do a search for 'spark plugs'. It seems that quite a few people run standard copper plugs instead of platinums, too. I had 2-year old NGK PFR6A-11 platinums on mine, which I replaced with NGK BCPR6E-11's when trying to resolve a misfire issue a while back. I hope your coil pack cover is already off as getting to the coils & plugs is a PITA otherwise...

You could try http://www.rynoinsurance.com.au/ but I doubt they'll do it without garaging either.

Just to confirm, Cooling Pro return flow kit requires trimming the thermo fan blades but the Blitz CS/SE does not? Does either kit have the nipple for the R34 power steering line or do you have to drill & add it yourself for both? And what about the washer bottle, does it need to be moved or replaced with either kit? Sorry to hijack the thread, just trying to make up my mind between the two...

For those in the know, is there any mechanical difference between Blitz SE and CS? Just Jap site says "CS Coating For Alloy Corrosion Resistance" but is that worth the extra cost ($699 vs. $749)? Also, does anyone sell these kits locally in Melbourne to save the P&P? Thanks

Hey mate have a look at this tutorial: R32/33: Replacing Shocks / Installing Coilovers, D.I.Y. I've added some R34 GTT specific comments in the last post.

Awesome, thanks Matt. So it sounds like I should be able to continue using the original auto ECU and the Nistune board after the conversion, and just get the tune tweaked for manual transmission? Sweet!

RB25DET Neos have cold start valve and AAC valve as part of the same assembly - I just posted this in another thread, perhaps it helps someone else:

Here's a summary of the main differences between an RB25DET Neo and the original tutorial for series 1: There are 4 bolts instead of 3 (doh ) Wrap a towel around and under the three coolant hoses before loosening the hose clamps and pulling out the hoses. There's enough coolant coming out to soak half a tea towel. The coolant may be pressurised so wear eye protection. As per the original tutorial I found it easier to disconnect the intake hose going to the base of the AAC at the other side of the head first, at the second hose clamp from where it branches off the main intake pipe. My AAC assembly didn't have an O-ring between the assembly and the solenoid (step 9). Take note of idle screw position before/whilst taking it out (number of rotations) unless you want to reset idle afterwards. After putting everything back together remember to bleed the coolant system by loosening the bleed screw on top of the AAC assembly with the engine running until you get a couple of drops of coolant coming out. Some photos below. I used cotton tips to clean the parts but be careful not to leave strands of cotton behind when cleaning. Thanks again QWK32 for your help!

Hi people, I've got an R34 GTT tiptronic and want to get a Nistune board and a proper dyno tune. The catch is, I am also looking at doing a manual conversion later on. Can anyone confirm if a manual conversion requires an ECU swap? Or can the car be run with the auto ECU with just the auto 'logic' disabled? And what's the go with Nistune, I understand the board is not transmission specific but what about the tune? If I was to retain the auto ECU after the conversion, would the board or tune need to be tweaked to support the manual box? Thanks guys.

Brilliant, thanks heaps for this QWK32! Should be a lot easier to clean the bloody thing once it's out of the car

Thanks guys, I'll try pulling out the AAC valve only first and see how that goes.

Thanks 89CAL, I might give that a go. It's pretty difficult to get to the valve though with those three hoses in the way. Ok so it's probably not a good idea to pull them off? I just want to clean the AAC valve, replacing coolant is too much work

Hi all, I just tried cleaning the AAC valve on my R34 (RB25DET Neo) using these instructions: Diy Aac Valve Cleaning & Idle Reset., Auxillary Air Control Cleaning for RB25DET's I didn't get far though before realising that the Neo AAC valve assembly is quite a bit different to the previous RB25DET's, some pics below. I started pulling out some of the clamps on the top right only to find out that there's coolant in there! So I found a comment in this thread: Questions: What exactly are the three hoses going to the top right of the valve assembly? If I want to pull out the whole AAC-V assembly for cleaning how much coolant should I expect to come out of the cold start valve side? The internals seem different to the R33 AAC too. Do the solenoid etc. come apart for cleaning just the same though? Thanks guys!

Spotted D34DLY in Box Hill last night, looks and sounds awesome!

Interesting, the 2010 KS catalogue only lists one part number (low). Have you got part numbers for the super lows?

It would probably help if you posted the Bilstein part numbers that you're running. Edit: Forgot to say, King Springs only make one type to suit R33/R34, which are as per the part numbers you've listed above. So not much choice there.

If it hasn't had the 100,000 km service done yet you'll probably need to do the whole hog. The service kit is around $500 (from Kudos) and you'll probably need a few other bits and bobs depending on the condition of the car. My car had its 100k service done last year by the previous owner and the receipt was just shy of 2 grand (including 6 hours of labour) so it's certainly not cheap. So make sure you negotiate the price accordingly

Looks awesome!! Is it driveable with no rubbing? What offset, any spacers?

+1 for tow bar and bike rack. I've got a bar that didn't require any cutting on my other car and an EziGrip rack for two bikes, they rock.

Just a heads up guys, I tried getting in touch with the seller several times regarding the swaybars since the original posting. He's moving house and super busy with work so quite hard to get hold of... The parts are in VIC eastern suburbs.

Thanks guys, sounds like TurboTech is the one to get when on a budget!!