V28VX37

Cheers for the clarification! I'm pretty happy that my car is series 1 then

I spotted an unusual front bar on Carsales, the ad says "all factory fitted parts" so I'm assuming it's oem. It's a 2001 car, anyone know what this is? A factory option perhaps? It's even got the SMIC outlet on the left hand side. Skirts and rear bar look completely standard, so it's not a full bodykit.

^^^^ Awesome stance!

Just in case anyone is wondering, the approximate measurements of the stock exhaust system are as follows: Front pipe 50 cm Cat 39 cm Mid pipe 50 cm (looks shorter in the photo though) Mid muffler 30 cm Rear pipe 80 cm Rear muffler 50 cm (it is massive) Tips 10 cm Please note that these are 'linear' lenghts, not actual pipe lengths. Here's a quick photo: The catback is different between sedan and coupe and it seems that the rear end of the front pipe is mounted slightly differently, too.

Could a million different things mate but I'd suggest getting your Crank Angle Sensor checked. If that doesn't help go through the checklist here.

Yeah mate, took a fair bit of hunting but it's all together now, about time! Some details here

Gravedigging ... does anyone have the photos from the original post from 2006? Sydneykid? Also is this a particularly pronounced issue on Skylines? It seems that there are a fair few people running King superlows without issues on Commodores with the stock FE2 shocks. Obviously it's a completely different suspension setup..

Hey mate, GTT front bar has the SMIC outlet/grille on the left hand side whereas the GT bar doesn't. I am also pretty sure coupe and sedan rear bars are not interchangeable but please correct me if I'm wrong...

This is probably obvious to most but here's a quick writeup on how to access rear strut tops on an R34 sedan: Undo the two bolts in the rear passenger footwell, one on each side. Pull rear seat forward and then lift the front, it should come out fairly easy. Make note on where each seat belt buckle comes through. Undo two more bolts that secure the backrest. These are located next to the left and right side seat belt bottom attachments. Pull the armrest down and undo the velcro above and below the ski port Grab the bottom on the backrest and pull it straight up. Once high enough you should feel the backrest unhook and be able to pull the top edge out. Slide left and right seatbelts out over the edges of the backrest. Slide backrest out to the side through the centre seatbelt. Voilà, you can now get to rear strut tops through the access holes under the left and right front corner of the parcel shelf! I found that a medium size ratchet with a long socket fits through perfectly well. Once you're done with the suspension work put everything back together in reverse order. Some tips: You do not need to remove the parcel shelf to get to the strut tops. You do not need to undo child restraint points. If you do, be careful not to drop the little metallic spacers under the parcel shelf - I did. To remove the parcel shelf for whatever reason I believe you need to remove the C pillar covers first. Anyone know how to do this without breaking anything? Couple of photos below. Location of each of the four bolts: Backrest loops that slip on the respective hooks in the car: Strut top access holes (you can see two of the backrest hooks right next to them): Hope this helps!

lol at thread topic

Well, the real test would be chucking the exact same car on the exact same dyno with the stock cat and then with each of these aftermarket ones, all other things unchanged. I wonder what the real-world performance difference is between 428CFM, 570CFM and 706CFM cats (claimed or real, at whatever pressure drop) in a ~200 rwkw car?

Spot on, OP take note. RubyRS4, been there done that, thanks for the tips though

Well, cat prices start at around $150 at the cheap end and I just checked Nengun and they have plenty in the US$1000+ range (with a HKS set for the R35 at US$5k+!) You can get a complete turbo back exhaust system for under a grand using second hand parts, or you can easily spend 5k and above for the same. I reckon the value of the car plays a role too, I wouldn't spend 5k on the exhaust for a 10k car ... 100k car is a different matter of course Horses for courses I suppose.

Neo coil packs are in fact interchangeable between RB25DE (N/A) and RB25DET (turbo) engines. It should say HANSHIN MCP-1440 on the packs if they're OEM.

Thanks heaps for this tutorial predator, still spot on after five years and counting! I did this on my R34 sedan over the weekend following these instructions and thought I'd add some tips for others: Mark all struts for corner & direction before pulling them out! I put a piece of masking take on the strut top and another just beneath the spring facing the front of the car. I didn't have any problems with strut alignment at all. The most problematic part was cracking the bottom nuts both front & rear. Holy crap they're tight! I found a 17 mm ring spanner extended with a scissor jack handle worked a treat. For the rears I realised my wheel brace also had a 17 mm socket and used that on the bolt end (rear side). Also as others have said WD40 is your friend. Leave the front wheels on and just apply full lock each way for easy access. Fronts struts come off & new ones go on easy this way. Make sure you don't mess up the brake lines when sliding the struts out or back in. The second top bolt on each front strut was quite tight because of the strut brace. After replacing I tightened all top bolts up, took the front end down, loosened again & retightened on level surface to get rid of any 'twist' that may have been caused by jacking the car up. Fronts are heaps easier than rears, you need to pull out the rear seat & backrest to access the rear strut tops. You do NOT need to pull out the parcel shelf though, there are access holes for the strut tops just under each front corner of the shelf. If you're doing this on jack stands you'll need to take the rear wheels off to get proper access. The spring will be slightly compressed due to lack of wheel weight. I used a long plank of wood between the control arms (?) for leverage to release the strut and to pop the new one back in. I had trouble getting the two top bolts in on one of the rear struts. Turns out that if you push the top of the strut in and pull the middle out at the same time the whole thing 'bends' a little, which allows to the top to slide in just fine. It's not a quick job if you're doing it for the first time, or perhaps I'm just slow. Took me the whole day and I didn't even have to change the springs as I had a second set of struts+springs preassembled. So don't start on Sunday evening and expect to drive to work early Monday morning I probably forgot something but hopefully this helps!

Metallic ones flow better & last longer AFAIK. They're plenty more expensive too, roughly double the price of a ceramic one for a 3" XForce.

Which one didn't tighten, one of the four top bolts or one of the two bottom nuts? I've got all 6 in place so it's certainly possible with the JJR front/dump. I WD40's the bejesus out of mine before pulling them out and then trial tightened the bolts and nuts in fully (without the dump) to make sure they'd go all the way in without problems.

+1 I got the exact same system modified for my 4door, full specs here. It's really nice and quiet on idle & low revs and seems to flow well. There's been a few R33 HKS Super Dragers for sale lately, just factor in some $$ for modifying it to suit.

Might also be ... tada! ... the coil packs. If changing plugs doesn't fix it and you're still running original coils they might be worth a look.

Saw that at Bunnings Hawthorn the other night but I thought it was white ... or I'm going blind. Defo GTR4 plates.

I recently asked Just Jap about their entry level 3" cats for an R34, the flow rates are as follows: These are for the ceramic cats, not metallic. Note that 'stainless' refers to casing not catalyser type. I went with the XForce in the end due to (claimed) higher flow rate. So far so good.

Spotted a white R35 with 'GTR4' plates at Bunnings in Hawthorn on Monday night. Needed a wash but looked tuff.

Lowered springs (King Springs, Pedders, Lovells) on standard shocks is probably the cheapest option. - Pros: Cheap, looks ok (if that's what you're after) - Cons: Increased wear and likelyhood of failure on shocks, worse handling, etc. Read SydneyKid's Lowering Springs With Standard Shocks thread for some more info.

private9 do you have the part numbers for prospective buyers? I know it's a different car but I just put the following King Springs on: - Front: KDFL-101 X - Rear: KDRL-61 On my R34 GTT sedan the front drop was about 22mm and rear about 42mm, using stock struts. Hope this helps.

Hey mate, I have a niggling feeling the sedan and coupe are different in this regard... This is the bracket they fabricated, the support elbow above seems to be on the other side than yours?? Dunno, just checked the receipt and it says $19.99. Maybe a discontinued product?