V28VX37

My taxi, completely stock: Cheers

Already am ... for the paint

Hey mate, have a read through my misfire resolution thread before buying the coilpacks. In my case the Crank Angle Sensor was stuffed, which caused misfiring and lack of power from 4000 rpm onwards. Ideally you could look into borrowing a set of coils from someone for a day and testing with those both cold and warm to see whether they fix the problem or not. Cheers

Cos I quite like the design of the stockies, just not the colour Plus I reckon I should be able to do a somewhat decent home job for around $150, can't really get new rims for that...

I've got the same but have been recommended to gap them down to 0.8 mm on stock engine and boost (R34 GTT) as I still have the original coil packs that are getting a bit tired. I've also been told not to bother with platinums (had NGK PFR6A-11's on the car previously) but just keep using copper ones correctly gapped. More spark plug discussion here

Guys, if you've tried everything else and it's still misfiring at higher revs make sure you check your Crank Angle Sensor. Read more in my misfire resolution thread here. Here's what a stuffed CAS looks like on the dyno (black = stuffed, green = fixed): Cheers

Here's what a stuffed Crank Angle Sensor looks like on the dyno (black = stuffed, green = fixed):

Cheers RBNT. Still got the other car too, they're certainly very different!

Thanks guys, sounds like the consensus so far is black. I am still considering the white as well, haven't seen any stock GTT rims in that colour as yet. Cheers for the pics Danny, the Z-tune looks awesome! It's gonna take quite a few steps to make my taxi resemble anything like that I reckon I am planning on painting the wheels myself (along these instructions) but I'll make sure to spend some proper time prepping them beforehand.

Hey all, I'm planning on painting my stock R34 GTT wheels but still a bit undecided about the colour. The car is sonic silver and completely stock, with stock silver GTT rims (current photos here). The 'traditional' options would be either black or white, and the more out there ones either red or blue. Here's a photoshop (car is chopped lower in side shot): What do you reckon? Any other options? Or leave as is?

Hi all, I recently got an R34 GTT and had a niggling misfire problem with the RB25DET Neo. Once warmed up the engine did an occasional shudder on idle and also sometimes felt bit sluggish and seemed to hesitate when accelerating in higher revs. After a couple of weeks of sleuth work this is now resolved, thank goodness. I trawled through heaps of existing SAU threads for advice: How To Fix Missfire Problem, D.I.Y. Rough Idle R34 Rb25det Neo Engine, On my S2 Stagea Misfire/stutter At Idle/low Revs (neo Rb25det).. Have Searched, Tested/replaced everything I can think of Mysterious Shudder/hesitation Please Help!, R33 GTSt Missfire 4.5k-5.5k Revs Missfire Boost@4500-5500 RPM - The Answer! (for me at least!) Here's a list of various things we tried: Check ECU for fault codes Remove engine cover and valley cover and clean underneath Inspect and tape up coil packs Replace spark plugs (mine had 2-year old NGK PFR6A-11 platinums which I replaced with NGK BCPR6E-11's on stock 1.1mm gaps) Change fuel (fill up) several times (BP Ultimate 98) Reset ECU several times Conduct data logging using Nissan DataScan Visually inspect air box, air filter and AFM Re-gap spark plugs down to 0.7-0.8mm Change engine oil and filter (Motul 4100) Fit new genuine Nissan O2 sensor However it wasn't until the clever chaps at Chasers re-checked the fault codes (after the car had stalled on idle all by itself, it's an auto) and chucked the car on the dyno that the root cause revealed itself. The Crank Angle Sensor (fortunately) threw and error code and on closer inspection the trigger wheel was found in physical contact with the optical sensor! The CAS was prompty rebuilt using parts from another unit. The guys also concluded that whilst externally fine the stock coil packs are starting to get weak and they re-gapped the plugs down further to 0.5mm as a temporary solution until I get a new set of coils. Due to the coils the idle is still a bit choppy intermittently but the car now pulls smooth all through the rev range and has its full power back. It returned a nice round 150 rwkw on the dyno, which I think is spot on for a stock GTT. Unrelated to the misfire, the original O2 sensor was stuffed too and replacing it has improved fuel economy straight away. I got my OEM replacement from Kudos Motorsports. Lastly, the only things I can think of that we didn't try: Test coil pack harness with multimeter for faulty wiring Replace coil packs one by one to identify faulty one(s) Check fuel filter I hope this helps someone else diagnose and solve the misfire issues. Big hat tip to Chasers for helping me out on this! Cheers

Hi all, been a long time lurker and finally got myself a(nother) money pit, an R34 GTT sedan! It took quite a while but I found pretty much exactly what I was looking for. Big thanks to SAU members for answering my random questions during the car hunt! Couple of photos below. The car is fooly sikk... err, stock, so excuse the 4WD stance etc. The rough plan for the car is as follows (budget permitting): paint wheels replace coil packs return flow FMIC turbo back exhaust nistune front windows tint That's about it, as this is going to be the daily (vs. the pushrod weekender Cheers!

Very cool, that's a spitting image of mine, only cleaner! You guys have crazy big numberplates over in the UK Congrats on the purchase and good luck with the bodykit!

Well, I've had to pull off the snorkel like five times since putting the scrivets in, a lot less painful than replacing cable ties every time. Otherwise I'm sure they'd work just as well

Hey mate, I did the exact same thing with my R34 snorkel. Go to Autobarn or SuperCheap and get a: Champion Panel Pack - 2 Scrivet Clips - 8mm hole - P/N PP68 The ones I got can be opened & closed using a standard phillips head screwdriver. You may want to measure the hole just be on the safe side - I got some 6mm ones too, just in case. At around $5 a pack they're a rip-off for bits of plastic but what can you do...

Darn, wish I had seen this a week ago before taping up my coil packs and changing the spark plugs, would have saved a lot of head scratching! chrisR34GTT agree that us noobs could use even more hand-holding Still a great post, thanks for sharing!

^^^ That's mad!! Looks like a major big $$$ job right there. Are those photos from Tokyo?

There's a writeup on SkylineOwners on How to remove Dash, Centre console for R34 GTT. Keep us posted on how you go.

Cheers, good to know. I'll try the other options (test O2, clean AFM, change air/fuel/oil filter) to see if any of them will help get it to 100% first.

Thanks I will check the oil level when warm, too. This is what I meant by ignition wire (lead) set: It's still the original set and some of the plastic bits are getting a bit brittle, if a replacement set is not too dear might just throw one in. Thanks for letting me know about the O2 sensor, I'll test it first before getting a replacement.

Cool thanks man. Oil is way above max mark on the dipstick when cold so I reckon it's been filled pretty generously at last oil change. I'll leave the valley cover off for now just to keep an eye on things...

Hi all, I recently got an R34 GTT (RB25DET Neo) and have had some trouble with shudder/miss on idle once the engine warmed up. The car had an injector and fuel system clean in 2008 and new NGK plugs put in. I decided to pull it apart on the weekend and replace the plugs anyway to see if that would make any difference. Some findings: Getting the valley cover off is a b___h. I had to loosen heaps of clamps and pull the whole intake pipe off to get clear access. I found a fair bit of oily gunk around the spark plugs, under the coil packs. This was on all cylinders except no. 6 (very little on 1, too) and especially noticeable on 4 & 5. The oil did not seem especially fresh, and I don't think this was cleaned back in 2008. The was some oil in the intake pipe as well. The 2008 spark plugs were NGK PFR6A-11. The car still has all original leads and coil packs. The coil packs seemed in good condition with no visible cracks. I pulled out all the coil packs and cleaned up as well as I could around the plugs. I then pulled out the plugs too and cleaned up some more. I have now put in some fresh NGK BCPR6E-11's with stock gaps (1.1mm), torqued 1/2 turn by hand as per NGK's guidelines. I also cleaned and taped up all the coil packs as per these instructions. After putting it all back together I started the engine, it fired straight up with no hesitation at all. There was some white smoke coming off the exhaust in the beginning, I suspect this was some of the oil from around the original plugs burning off? After warming up it runs fine, no smoke. Based on the first half an hour test drive it's all splendid, no shudder on idle anymore when warm. However I did notice very slight shudder (once or twice) when stationery on another drive today, so it's clearly better but still not quite 100%. Mind you it seems all fine at higher RPMs and pulls alright. Some questions: With the oil in the valley I'm suspecting a slight rocker cover leak, is this plausible? What's involved in fixing that, is it just a gasket replacement job? I left the valley cover off to keep an eye on things. Is there any harm in driving around without it on? Where can I buy a new ignition wire set for an RB25DET Neo in Melbourne? I might also look at replacing the O2 sensor if I can find one. My plan of attack is cleaning the AFM, replacing the fuel filter and replacing the oil filter next just to see if any of these would help. And yeah, the car is completely stock. Cheers Before: After:

Hey, there's lots of good related info already posted around: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gt...on-t246798.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ch-t210089.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Mo...et-t296103.html You'll need to work out first what you're going to use the car for. If yours is only mildly modified and you really really want AWD, it might work out better just selling the car and buying a R34 25GT-Four to replace it. From what I've read switching between AWD and RWD is a lot more complex in R33s and R34s than R32s. That said most of the torque in the AWD setup will go to rear wheels in normal driving anyway. Another thing to keep in mind is the ~100kg added weight of the full ATTESA system and the related bits and bobs. I was recently looking to buy an R32 GTS-t and several GTS4s were in the market so I looked into the reverse conversion (AWD->RWD) in some detail. In the end I decided it isn't worth the trouble...

Hi Steve, good question, I'd be keen on getting a definitive answer as well (for an R34 GTT sedan). Different sources have slightly different figures: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Skyline#R34 - 1410 kg (4-door sedan / 2-door coupe) http://www.japanesesportcars.com/skyline/s...4_ggt_turbo.php - 1490 kg (sedan) / 1340 kg (coupe) http://nissanskyline.6te.net/GTT_spec.htm - 1410 kg (4 door sedan or 2 door coupe) http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/sh...tcount839233944 - 2.5 25GT Turbo coupe 1430kg (4AT), 1410kg (5MT) - 2.5 25GT Turbo sedan 1450kg (4AT), 1430kg (5MT) The Performance Forums numbers seem pretty good, i.e. - base weight 1410kg for R34 GTT coupe manual - add 20kg for automatic transmission - add 20kg for sedan Can anyone confirm these please?

I just filled the car up with BP Ultimate 98RON and reset the ECU again. This time I'm getting code 55 "No Malfunction" i.e. all clear! I'm not too sure now whether it's the knock sensors afterall, however the stutter/slight misfire is still there so I'll have to look into the other items on ShadowKnyght's original post.