V28VX37

Fair enough, thanks for the tip. I just got a hair-raising quote from the Nissan parts department not to mention the several weeks required to get them sent in from Japan. I'll try and chase up some second hand ones here first.

Thanks guys, good to know. I just ran the car until the fuel warning light lit up and then filled up with BP Ultimate. I will do an ECU reset next just to make sure it learns the new octane as I'm pretty sure it was running 95 before.

This is interesting and in line with what I've heard being said about turbo cars in the past. I just got an R34 GTT and it came with a 34-page Owner's Manual in English, copyright ADR Automotive Engineering Pty Ltd 2006 (Vs 2.10 02/06). Anyone else seen these things? Anyway, on page 26 under Specifications it says the following: There are mentions of RB25 and turbos elsewhere in the manual so it's quite clearly meant to cover all model variants. I know that with the LS1s (different planet I know) the stock ECU can 'adapt' to different octane fuel but as soon as you get a tune it's done for a specific octane level - almost invariably 98 RON. Can anyone confirm if the Nissan ECUs are adaptive, too?

Cool, I'll see if I can revive the stock unit first and if that doesn't work consider the alternatives. Thanks again for your help!

Sounds like I may have a similar issue with my R34 GTT, more details here. I am getting code 34 though (knock sensor) so will need to look into that first. If that doesn't help I'll follow your list to see if anything there would resolve it. Did you get this sorted completely since the January update?

Thanks Chris, great replies. On point 5, wow, glad I didn't start ripping them out then! Do you know if there is a separate amp or navi box somewhere in the car, or is it all self-contained in the DIN unit? What's the price range for one of these screens? Cheers

Looks like my new R34 GTT (1998) has the same setup with the popup screen (instead of the triple gauge cluster), navigation unit (with all controls in Japanese) and a separate cassette player headunit under the climate control unit. Must be the same version then. I bought the car with an inoperative stereo and I'm not too fussed about it working or not. I did have quick a look at it last night though, here's the lowdown: - I pulled the top lid up and confirmed that there is indeed a screen in there - I replaced the audio fuse which was blown, both navi and headunit get power now - It seems that there is a disc stuck in the navi unit that keeps on spinning nonstop (even when key is removed from ignition!) - None of the navi controls do anything whatsoever. Can't pop up the screen either. - Headunit/cassette player, amplifier(s) and all speakers work, tested with an iPod and cassette adapter - The radio plays only static. It does scan through both FM and AM frequencies but doesn't lock onto anything ... perhaps they have different bands in Japan? - Headunit lights are out. So are the auto gearstick lights (hmm... perhaps need some replacement bulbs?) - I had a quick look in the boot and found the amp/navi (?) boxes: LH: RH: Some questions: 1. Is there a 'hard reset' for navi system? Is there any way to force CD eject? 2. Does anyone have translations for the navi unit controls? 3. Does this headunit have a separate fuse for the lights? 4. Is this one of the OEM navigation systems manufactured by Xenavi/Xanavi? 5. Is there any further information on the amp/navi boxes anywhere? Thanks in advance!

I just got myself an R34 GTT (RB25DET Neo), will post a proper introduction once I get it cleaned properly. Sorry to dig up an old thread but it sounds like I may have a similar issue as ShadowKnyght, there is a slight shudder/miss on idle once the engine has warmed up. A mechanic who inspected the car before I bought it said it might be just from being garaged for over a year and a good long drive down the freeway might help, haven't done that yet though. Looking through the service history I know that it's had an injector & fuel system clean in 2008 and new NGK plugs put it. I 99% confident it still has original leads and coilpacks. I did the old paperclip trick to read ECU codes and it came up with 34 (knock sensor) and no other codes. I had a look under the inlet manifold near cylinder 2 (close to front of engine) and I am assuming the photo below is one of the knock sensors? Is there any way of cleaning these things or do they need to be replaced? Any advice on how to get to the other one (near cylinder 5), I couldn't find it from above even with a mirror? Also, could it be just the wiring and not the sensor itself? Thanks

Had two different mechanics take a look at the car, all good. The leak wasn't anything serious and performance is ok for a standard car, turns out I'm just not used to driving bog stock ones

Thanks Basho, I'll get it checked. Cheers

Couple more questions on the same car, didn't want to start a new thread. The car seems in decent nik but has been garaged for a long time. It drives ok but feels a bit sluggish, when you floor it revs up quick enough but feels a bit 'spongy' and it doesn't really feel like the turbo would kick in properly at all. Could this be the auto slipping or something else? I'll try to run the Auto Transmission Diagnostics when I look at the car next. The 32's I've driven recently go much harder. There's also a leak under the engine bay with something collecting in the sump guard / undertray - it seems to be on the exhaust / turbo side. Any ideas what this could be? I'll go and have another look over the weekend but thought I'd get some ideas on what to look for exactly. I'll obviously get the car properly checked by a mechanic if I get serious about it. Cheers!

Brilliant, I think that's it! Front the top, the centre console has: 1. Air vents 2. Thing that looks like a CD player (controls in Japanese, Compact Disc Digital Audio logo in top right above a four-way controller) 3. Climate control 4. Cassette player I didn't realise there'd be something popping up, gotta have a closer look. The steering fluid reservoir is next to LH strut tower yeah (turbo side)? It's black, just looked at a photo of a GT engine bay and that one's clear as you said, should be all good. Thanks guys!

Hi all, I recently looked at an 1998 R34 GT-T (auto). Build plate says RB25DET, it has turbo engine cover and GT-t sticker under RH taillight. Fasted VIN says RB25DET / HI.2WD / 25GTT produced 9810 so that all matches. However, there is no triple gauge cluster on top of the centre console?! I know that non-turbo GT's came without these but did any GT-T's? If not, why would anyone remove the cluster and replace it with the flat cover from a GT? Cheers

Don't worry about it, I went around a few workshops in the area with photos of rails under various cars and got some very useful feedback. Highly recommended if you're considering buying. Make sure you look out for 'ripples' between floorpan and the chassis rail, it's a good sign of a compromised rails. Being crushed by jacking is not necessarily as bad, although that may be expensive to repair too. Cheers

Sorry to go digging for an old thread. I have been looking at a few R32s recently and most seem to have some dents in the chassis rails under the car. But how much is too much? Couple of examples below. Are these safe and would they pass roadworthy? If not can they be repaired? What's would be the approximate cost (in Melb)? Thanks guys.

All common LS1, LS2 and LS3 engines (5.7, 6.0, 6.2 displacement respectively) are aluminium blocks in standard passenger car applications (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_LS_engine ). You can get each with a cast iron block too, typically used in stroker or FI builds. Current kings of the LS hill are LS7 (7.0L), LS9 (6.2L supercharged) and the aftermarket LSX by GM Performance Parts (cast-iron racing block based on the LS7 engine). Any one of these things, NA or not, will go like crazy when dropped into a lightweight chassis such as the R32.

Is this car sold?

Working Carsales link: http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat....aspx?R=8667894

Thanks guys, that was mighty quick! I'll have to confirm the specifics of the turbo. Ok high-flowed stock items do indeed sound like a good replacement setup. Cheers

Hi all, I've been looking at a few interstate cars recently with the view of potentially getting one into Victoria. Based on what I've read the authorities take a fairly dim view on top mount turbos here. What's involved and how labour intensive is it to relocate a turbo from top mount to low mount location? It's an RB25DET with a top mount T3/4. Obviously you'd need to confirm upfront that the turbo fits in the low mount location in the first place (not sure). Other than that I've worked out that you'll need at least the following: - exhaust manifold - exhaust flange - some new intercooler piping Anything else? Can this be done without pulling the engine out, and how much work is involved? Would it be easier to just throw in a stock RB25DET turbo & manifold? Cheers

Depends on your budget and what exactly you're looking for. Have a look at this thread on the 'new' import rules: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Im...l&p=4760984 : Hope this helps.

Did you use the original RB20DE or drop another RB20DET in there? Is it registered with VicRoads? Is the car currently registered? If not when did the rego expire? What do you reckon is required for RWC? Cheers

Nice car! Which turbo is it currently running, and can it be converted from top-mount to low mount? Just wondering about getting a setup like this engineered and legal in VIC. Cheers

Have you read all the threads on this available through search? E.g. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ls...on-t207355.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...on-t187852.html "LS1" and "LS2" should give lots of results.

Hey mate, no personal experience but came across this thread over at E90 of a guy doing a nice DIY wrap of his BMW 330i: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=376442 as featured in Autoblog yesterday: http://www.autoblog.com/2010/04/26/how-to-...in-your-garage/ Given your experience and the price point I'd say go for it - should look awesome!!