VSPEC32

Thanks Rezz Sorry to be a pain, but can you quickly decipher this one as well? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v236/coo...5/workcrkai.gif Oh, and the three on the right side of the original link I provided. It's a pain trying to choose a colour when the pics are so obscured (and only have J text for colours) Cheers Brendan

While this is still fresh, can someone translate the colours noted on the following page: http://www.work-wheels.co.jp/wheels/index/...k1p-2/spec.html Thanks Brendan

Hehehe, um, yeah - how could you tell ? Did multimedia production in early-mid nineties, then switched to web in 1996. Cheers Brendan

It also means you can resize vector images to whatever size you want and they'll be perfect - big or small.

Computer images are viewed as one of two types (mostly) - raster or vector. Raster images are those wholly made up of pixels (coloured or monotone) - examples are photos (JPEG's, Bitmaps, TIFF's, RAW) and gif animations. When you zoom in on a raster image, all you'll see is bigger pixels. A vector image however is made up of how should I put it...mathmatical data for want of a better term. Basically is says to the viewing app draw a line from this point to that point in black and make it 0.25mm thick. Vector apps include Macromedia Freehand, Adobe Illustrator, Corel Draw, Macromedia Flash (which can use both vector and raster) and to some extent Adobe Photoshop (although that's a mainly raster based app). When you zoom in on vector images, the lines, colours, shapes and fills stay sharp even at 1600% magnification. Hope that explains it.

Hehehe, well there's differences firstly in the way the vinyl is made. Some is sort of stretched out (calendered) and the other is layed out (cast). Cast is the better of the two as it doesn't have the inherent tendency to want to go back to original shape. It also depends on the manufacturers specifications, the longer you want it to last, the more you pay. The manufacturers will guarantee it to last a specific amount of time as long as it's been applied properly. It also depends on it's location on how long it will last - full sun facing up versus side of car, minimal sun. Hope that gives you an idea. I tend to use only the better stuff (Avery 900 series vinyl) as it's a little easier to work with most times and you never know how long it'll need to last. But I always give caveats to the customer depending on whether or not that polished the car recently etc etc.

It really depends on what you want to do. I mean with Woody's car (Angry13) I already had vector art laid out on an outline of a Silvia already done. So I resized to correct size, cut and applied. I applied dry though, not wet which can also be done. In regards to taking off, it depends on whether or not the paint has had time to cure. Woody's paint is original, so there's no problem. But with new paint you need to leave at least 2 weeks before you apply graphics otherwise when you pull it off you can take paint off. When you're taking it off, either leave in sun for a while or use something like a heat gun to make it easier to remove. If there anything left over (glue/gum), first use some mineral turpentine on a rag and soak the area, if a lost of glue, soak and scrap off with a plastic card, then use methylated spirits to clean off. Finally before applying any graphics use IPA (isopropyl alchohol) to clean the area. If you apply graphics onto newly polished areas, don't expect it to last as it doesn't stick well and the polish and any other contaminents can gas out through the vinyl sticker. Here endeth the lesson. Cheers Brendan

Thanks mate, and if you haven't gathered from the above post, I have a vinyl cutter. I'm mainly only doing logos and stuff as I'm not quite setup for doing racing stripes et al. I did however do the graphics on 'Angry13' which some of you may have seen at the recent Cabin Autosalon under the SilviaWA banner. Also did all the ones on the C-Red cars except for the racing stripes (S15) and window tinting (JZ, S14).

I had to collect all my own. The ones I couldn't find I had to retrace. I have quite a collection going now of about 140-150 logos. If you're a member on the SilviaWA forums, I have a list of them there in the Traders section. Cheers Brendan

Could it be generalised that most 1.5/2way diffs are probably not run in correctly when first installed. There's a couple of articles I saw a while back on running in the KAAZ LSD's. Takes about 30mins of driving in a figure 8 fashion to properly run in diff for smooth working - ie. minimal knocking. It also mentions that it's possible for diffs that weren't run correctly, that you can redo the procedure to smooth (reduce knocking) it out again. Takes a couple of dumps of diff oil too. Some info here - http://kaaz-uk.com/faq.php

Hey, no problems. Maybe one of the mods want to sticky it up or something?

When I built mine, I was aiming for around the same mark. I decided that the wife would divorce me if I spent too much on the rebuild, so the rods stayed standard, but had them cryo treated along with the block, crank and cradle. Made 352rwhp before the exhaust strangled the deal (then I proceeded to write it off 2 hrs later...but that's a completely other story). Be sure to have the engine completed balanced and blueprinted in the rebuilt process. Cheers Brendan

Well, definitely give Grant a call. He rebuilt a set of N1's I had on mine that I sold ages ago. He can pretty much just rebuild but with a steel wheel instead as mentioned. While everythings off, it's a good change to replace dump pipes & front pipes too (if they haven't been already).

Here's a document I made from a Jap page I found a few years go. Thought it might help people determine what turbo they have or need to have ; ) http://www.ipixel.com.au/temp/nismo-turbins.pdf Cheers Brendan

What's your budget? The R34 GT-R standard turbos are ball-bearing, but still have the ceramic exhaust wheel. You'll need to go to some form of N1 turbo for the steel wheel. Here's a document outling most of the Nissan and Nismo GT-R turbos that were released and their specs: http://www.ipixel.com.au/temp/nismo-turbins.pdf Cheers Brendan

I managed to find an email for the person who did the page using the 'Internet Archive' (http://www.archive.org/). Unfortunately that archive thingy only caches pages and not images. I emailed the person, hopefully I'll get a response. Would need to find somewhere to host all the pics too.

For your lighting stuff, check out this place, they specialise in auto electrical: Alanco 83-85 Welshpool Rd Welshpool 6106 Western Australia (08) 94581300 http://www.alanco.com.au/

Hahahaha, please don't tell me you own the horn Staj Mahal in the car park Mr M. . . ._B)

I saw this and thought of you guys: 1996 R34 GT-R face lift Stagea 260RS RB26DETT wagon http://www.monkys.jp/e/ucar/WGNC24R34.htm Nice bit of car pr0n.

I had a few made up about 18mths ago. A few of us bought the shirt we wanted and then I dropped them off at the embroiders along with the artwork. In the end, depending on the shirt you bought, it cost about $30/shirt. These were for GT-R ones, well, it had Skyline with GT-R underneath in the proper R32-34 style. I'm sure if people are interested again you could organise it. Cheers Brendan

I'd also be interested in what the PowerFC is for? Maybe post up the numbers on the outside and someone can determine it's specs.

Just out of interest, what is the offset on these 18x10's? I assume they fit up perfectly on an R32 GT-R?

Original post on SilviaWA: http://www.silviawa.com/forums/index.php?s...?showtopic=9653 Contact number: 0421859091 (Shanon)

I remember finding this a while ago and stumbled across it again in my bookmarks. May not be common knowledge so here you go. http://sgt77.topcities.com/ Cheers Brendan

Ray Thanks for the photos, thought I'd post them up here if you don't mind. Looks bloody fantastic. BTW, if you don't want them up, let me know. Cheers Brendan PS> These photos are of Ray's (aka: prince) C110, not mine.