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LOL yeah, I didn't drop $ ,000's and $ ,000 on turbos, intercooler, drumps, zorst to attempt to save 5c a litre on dodgy petrol and get 30 pc worse mileage! I just run it on vortex 98, seems pretty happy. Seriously, guys, thanks for the help, I was about the buy the bosch until I read the write up and was like "um, not for me thanks" so will go the nismo (had heard of the tomei but didn't realise it was the same thing?) Cheers Andrew

Hey I'm in the camp of people that would rather not take the risk, and am looking to upgrade. However, after reading the FAQ/tutorial thing about the bosch 044, it is clear that it is far from a bolt-on upgrade. I have been looking at an alternative that will just "drop in" to the existing in-tank cradle setup (I would rather pay the extra and not worry about the hassle of modifying things or worrying about the hose etc) So far I have identified the nismo pump, which is about $440 plus post; also there is a sard item sold by JJR that is $700 or something, allegedly that bolts in. My question is: 1) can someone confirm the nismo item is a bolt in, no mods required (r32?) What about the sard? 2) are there any others that are better priced and drop into the existing cradle?

hi mate If the head is undamaged, I'll give you $600 for it. I'm not on here often, but give me a call or txt on 0415 838 790 and I can come to sydney some time and pick up (I'm in ACT). cheers, Andrew

I had a crack at porting out my turbo flanges on the exhaust manifolds. I didn't really do much other than remove the "lip" that is on there. Matched it up to the HKS 2530's that will be going on there. Probably increased the surface area of teh flange by about 15%? Used an air dye grinder and tungsten carbide tip as well - went through it heaps easy and way neater than I thought. Pics:

Cool, tomei do the sort of single-pipe ones, "bellmouth" I think people on here refer to them as? (HKS and JJR are the split ones) I have seen them around $700 a pair, I think, any better prices than that?

*digs up old thread* Ok, so having joined the highly non-exclusive GTR ‘exhaust wheel found in cat converter’ club, I have obtained from a forum member some replacement turbos – specifically, HKS 2530’s (cheers Ben). Having removed the stock turbo’s and dumps, I have noticed three important things: 1) the OEM cast dumps look very restrictive; 2) the dump pipes would be pretty much impossible to remove without removing the turbos, and all associated procedures; and 3) there is not a lot of clearance between the front dump pipe and the rear turbo housing. So, I have decided (since the turbos are off anyway) to replace dumps with freer-flowing aftermarket items – doing this mod on my z32 TT got great results, so well worth it (I’m also going to grind out my manifolds slightly like others on here have done). REPORTED PROBLEMS So I did a search on this site to find out if there are any “issues” I need to look out for, and two problems in particular presented themselves in using aftermarket dumps. 1) One person reported that they had clearance issues between the back of the dump pipe and the rear turbo housing. Their solution was to beat an indentation in the back of the front dump pipe to allow clearance to install (ouch). 2) Another person had a different issue – not quite clear what – but it required actually cutting and shutting the flange on the dump to re-orient it somehow. In both cases, the problem was put down to buying “cheap ebay dump pipes”. Fair enough, you get what you pay for. BUT I am not prepared to do either of these things to modify what is meant to be a “bolt on” mod. I’d rather shell out the extra $$ and save hours (and $) stuffing around under the bonnet any more than I already have. THE OPTIONS So far the options I have found are: • $189 (starting bid), JDM racing on ebay – has anyone bought a set of these, and installed them without any dramas? • $399 – JJR/Just Jap dumps – search has revealed mixed reports, one person said they had troubles, another person said they fitted perfectly. Just Jap are confident they will fit correctly. In any case, having bought stuff from Just Jap before, I know that if I did have any issues, they’d refund my money no questions asked, I just want to save any hassle. • A couple of posts reckon the r34 GTR dumps are superior to r32/33 – I don’t even want to speculate as to how I would obtain a set of those. • $800 – HKS – probably guaranteed to fit and work well, but I don’t really want to shell out eight hundred bucks for some pipes for no real benefit. MY DUMB QUESTIONS What other bolt-up options are out there? If there is a cheaper option that bolts up I’m keen, anything has to be better than the OEM ones, but if I can’t find anything better I’ll probably go with the JJR option. I note my new turbos have a divorced wastegate and exhaust section, so any dumps that had a separator in the middle that projected past the flange would have to be removable (by removable I mean unbolting, not angle-grinding). Alternatively, if you are selling an aftermarket set of r32 GTR dumps, or stock r34 GTR dumps, in good nick, please feel free to shoot me a PM. Andrew

Hey guys You may have seen my post the other day about finding a turbo exhaust wheel in my cat converter. Anyhow, I have been trying to remove my front turbo following the procedures outlined in the factory service manual (well, the 4 dot points and the exploded diagram... I did a search on "oil drain" and "turbo removal" but didn't see anything relevant, if I've missed something a link would be awesome). Basically I've got it to the point where I've detached the turbo assy from the manifold, and the manual says I'm meant to lower the turbo to access the bolts for the exhaust manifold. My issue is I can't figure out how exactly I'm meant to remove the oil drain line so that the turbo assy can be dropped down. It seems like the oil drain is mostly a solid metal pipe connected by short lengths of rubber hose. There is not a lot of flex in the whole thing. The turbo can't be moved upwards b/c of the manifold, and it can't be moved down b/c of the solid drain line. And the hose clamps aren't exactly accessible, but even if they were the rubber sections wouldn't really provide much flex. Does the solid line somehow detach from the sump or what am I missing? Made some good progress but am now kind of hitting a brick wall. Any assistance appreciated, if I've missed something really obvious don't hesitate to bag me out on it. Surely there is a trick to this?

GTRsean = teh winnar! I was also kind of right, the cat converter was blocked - with this (see pic) Oh well, just means its HKS ball bearings for me (stand by for dumb questions about turbo upgrades)

Well, I imported an GTR32 and as is usual with imports, it was running pretty rough when it came off the boat. So anyhow, tracked down and fixed a couple of boost leaks and associated issues, and it now is idling cleanly and starting sweetly, but not making any boost. Now, a couple of people have posted up similar problems, but they seem to associated with misfiring and/or various colours of exhaust smoke, which is not consistent with my experience. Also a lot of the other posts seem to be correlated with ‘catastrophic events’ or other sudden failure, whereas mine has just kind of always been shite. Basically, it is running like a 2.6 n/a with a low static compression ratio (not very impressive). It revs out and doesn’t hesitate, just doesn’t make any boost. It doesn’t blow any kind of smoke (either black or white/blue) and doesn’t seem to consume oil. So far I have: 1) run an air/fuel meter, which returned 14:1 (pretty much where I’d want it, yeah?) 2) checked the timing – was advanced to about 25 deg, so reset it back to 15 deg BTDC (i.e. what it says on the bonnet) 3) disassembled the intake (passenger) side of the motor – a couple of the rubber hoses to the wastegates were looking a bit worse for wear, so I replaced them with high-pressure efi hose and clamped ‘em down real good. I also took the opportunity to really tighten off all associated hose clamps, as well as replacing the very large rubber pipe that comes off the collector (the one that connects to the pipe that is stamped “twin turbo” – my one had a minor split). 4) examined turbos – the compressor wheel didn’t seem to have any excessive shaft play or damage, but then I’m no expert. I haven’t had a look at the exhaust wheels yet, haven’t removed the dumps – that may be the next thing. The wastegates seemed to have a ‘normal’-ish kind of resistance to them, and everything seemed to spin reasonably well. Nothing jumped out as being seriously wrong. 5) examined plugs – all sparkplugs looked fairly clean, very little carbon or any kind of damage there. But then it wasn’t misfiring at all so that makes sense. 6) here is the wild card – when I got the car, something called the ‘PCM valve’ (small valve kind of behind the battery area) was unplugged. Now, the actual plug was ziptied out of the way, so it doesn’t look like this was accidental. Anyway, I just plugged it back in. Having searched, it seems the PCM has something to do with the EGR system, but that’s all I know. Anyway, the next thing I’m going to try is looking at the cat converter to see if it’s somehow collapsed or something equally ridiculous. If there is some vacuum related issue on the D/S I would probably prefer to yank the motor rather than attempt to remove the inlet plenum with the motor in the car (search has told me the inlet is a PITA to remove in the car). I have the engine crane and other tools, and the will, to remove the motor if required (although have not done engine removal on a 4wd setup like the r32). At this stage I’m really just looking for clues or suggestions on where to go. In particular 1) what is the PCM valve, what does it do and why would someone unplug it? Is this the solenoid people modify to increase boost to 1 bar, and if so wouldn’t plugging it back in simply return the car to factory boost (as opposed to zero boost)? 2) can the car have a boost leak and still idle cleanly and maintain normalish AFR’s even under various load/RPM conditions?

Hi all I was pulling apart my r32 ignition the other day and noticed something weird, one of the coilpacks is different (see pic) 5 of the coilpacks look like the one on the left, with the solid connector, but one has just a wire coil (right). (obviously I've removed the rubber boots for the pic). It was suggested to me that the one with just the wire coil may not give as strong a spark. It has a different number stamped on it also. Might be nothing but just want to eliminate it as a possible cause of low power. Anyway, I was just wondering if someone had a stock r32 GTR coilpack, with a solid tip, like the one on the left, to sell. Cheers Andrew

Is an igniter module the same as a coil pack? If so - do you happen to have another one for sale (these things usually travel in packs of six, so I figured it was worth a shot)? Andrew

Oh sweet, cheers. I will have a look in the service manual as to where the PCV's are, and how to change them!

Hi Guys I'm new to r32 GTRs (and to the forums), so please don't massacre me if this has been covered (I did a search on "oil, inlet pipe, turbo" and read the 'report that engine failure' thread, but need clarification). So anyway, I was pulling apart my turbo inlet pipes on the GTR, checking for boost leaks and loose clamps etc, and noticed some oil pooling in the inlet pipe for the rearmost turbo. Things to note: 1) car starts up easily and runs smoothly, but doesn't make a lot of power - seems like it doesn't want to boost (ther are some other irregularities with the coil packs that I'm looking into, but thought I mention this) 2) no strange noises coming from the turbo, and no white smoke from the zorst 3) car doesn't *seem* to burn any oil 4) The front turbine inlet seems ok. Based on searching, it appears that it might be getting blowby (rings gone?) but are there any other more obvious explanations?