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has anyone had any experience with go fast bits? http://www.gfb.com.au/products/wastegates/ex38-38mm-v-band-style-external-wastegate-by-gfb?searchtype=autosearch Bit concerned the max boost pressure appears to be 22psi, am currently running 21 and the motor's been built for a lot more.

Will it be possible to fit 40mm onto the 38mm manifold flanges without any issues? I haven't used v-bands before so not really sure how they work. Don't want to have any sealing issues. When you say they aren't that much bigger, do you mean the physical dimensions of the thing? Do they have ports for water cooling as well?

Hey all just resurrecting a zombie thread from last year to look for a bit of advice. I have a split flange t4 manifold for an rb26 and it has provision for two 38mm v-band external wastegates. I don't want to cheap out on the wastegate (or boost control in general) as I spent a fair bit of money building the motor itself. So far the only reputable brand that seems to have a suitable wastegate is the TiAL. I have seen them priced in the AUD$300's. My questions are: 1) Are there any other reputable brands as an alternative to TiAL that do a 38mm v-band (turbosmart only seem to have flanged items) 2) who is the best priced supplier from whom to get a genuine item in Australia? I'm a bit wary of ebay as some of the replicas look very convincing.

Hi can you give us a bit more details about these, assuming not sold already: eg -What is the bore of the M/C, is it the ABS or non-ABS one -what condition is the M/C in -what condition are the calipers in, have they had any seals or rebuild kits put through them -are the rotors stock and in what condition -what is the outer diameter of the rotors

There's a few unexpected surprises when assembling an RB30/26 that you may not have heard of if you're outside Aus, see link in sig http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=112538

What about the distributor gears etc, will the rb30E skyline distributor mate up to the VL commodore head?

UPDATE: as I suspected I bent one of the valves, it's only on 5 now. There's a reasonably priced reco head on Ebay, but it's for a VL Commodore rb30e, not a skyline. I heard they had different cams - will this be a problem? Also will it bolt up and run okay with the r31?

yep, going to try to get a hold of a leakdown tester this weekend. Ordinarily would not care about $46 for a set of bolts, but they won't be delivered by this weekend and I need the car running ASAP, was hoping to get it installed back in the car over the long weekend. If I can get a leakdown test done on Sunday I'll either be able to go ahead with installation, or buy bolts and valves as required on Tuesday... Thanks for all the responses!

Well, didn't want to throw away a set of stretch bolts if there was some way of telling if it was ok without removing the head, but it may come to that...

Is it possible to see whether the valve is seating with the rocker cover off (but the head still bolted down)?

Yes, was distracted, missed a key step, hope I haven't junked the motor. rb30 is an interference motor. Was torqueing down head, had the no.1 cylinder set to TDC, forgot to clock the cam pin to the top. Instead of the pin sitting at 12 o'clock, was sitting at roughly 3 oclock. 3 oclock puts the valve on the piston. was able to rotate the cam backwards to 12 oclock but there didn't seem to be much movement past where it was sitting originally in the clockwise direction. because the piston was at TDC, the valve wouldn't have pushed it down. how likely is it that I've bent a valve?

For those not familiar, bit of info might help, e.g. 1) kilometres of use 2) oil/water/both? 3) flange type (t3, t4, split flange or no) 4) bearing type

Looks similar to mine except mine is a single piece (and, um, has a massive chunk missing out of it): [/url] [/url] Anyone know if these would be interchangeable?

Can you post up a pick of the side of the thing, if I can see if it has ribbed belts or v-belts it will give me a better idea (my rb30 has ribbed)

Wouldn't happen to have a decent condition rb30e harmonic balancer for r31 hanging around?

Urgently need an RB30E harmonic balancer for r31 skyline. If you have a good condition one with no damage and the right belt pulleys for the r31, please let me know. The rb30 accessories use the ribbed belts, not the v-belts like the rb26. send me a PM if you have one, or sms on zero four one five, 838 79 zero. Need it within the next couple of weeks.

anyone got a reasonable-condition rb30e long motor with low-ish k's they are looking to sell?

Can I get some info on the turbo, ie.: 1. what is the turbo flange? T4? 2. Split or open? 3. water or oil cooled or both? Also with the waste gates, are they v-banded or flanged?

Also keen to know this ^^^

the piping setup in my 'R needs to be changed anyway, when I got the extra 38mm deck height from the rb30, I did a "temporary" hack and clamp job to extend the OEM rubber pipes and was never super happy with it. So this incremental cost of upgrading the piping (especially in light of everything else) should be not much. There's going to be a lot of pipe cutting and welding in any case for the single turbine setup. In terms of whether it will be better or worse than the 80mm setup, I figure the stock power on a GTR was in the 200's, so upgrading the cross-sectional flow area by around 60% shouldn't be a bad thing if chasing power levels that are well over double the stock output.

Currently on 385kw or so (at the treads) but turbos are way undersized for my application. Would ultimately like to get into the 600's once fuel system (including switch to ethanol) is sorted. I don't want to lose the off-throttle response or the effect of the brake booster on sudden switch from throttle to brake. It's one of the things I like most about the rb. I realise it makes tuning a PITA and may limit power, but have driven a single throttle and it's not for me. Thanks for all the names/etc so far, will continue the research.

Am currently running 22-23psi on a set of HKS 2530s. It has a built rb30 bottom end and big cams, so when I go to a single turbo (around t88 size or so) I will be upping the boost considerably. EDIT: this is not intended to be a street/daily driver car.

Hi everybody Looking to upgrade the inlet manifold on my rb30dett and just wanting to know if there's any options beyond hypertune out there that might fit my requirements. Specifically: 1) I definitely will be retaining the 6 x ITBs. 2) I want to run a 100mm/4" inlet diameter, in anticipation of going to a full 4" intercooler and turbo outlet system once I convert to a single turbo. The last time I looked into this hypertune seemed to be the only item that could meet these requirements but I thought that since then something else might have entered the market. I basically want a nice big plenum with a quality, machined face to bolt on, seals properly, that flows nicely and distributes flow to the rear cylinder. The hypertune price range would be the upper end of what I'm hoping to pay and if anyone can recommend a good Australian distributor that I can chat to that would be great. Also, are there any issues I might have particularly with a deck height that is now +38mm, eg: clearance with clutch mcs etc - I'm already assuming I may need to go to an r33 style clutch mc. I am currently running the factory fuel rail with 1000cc injectors but all the ones I've seen have factory mounts for the rail as well. But any other tips on clearances and fitment etc would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I've put around 4 tankfuls of the costco 98 octane through my 1gz-gte without any issues, including driving interstate, up mountains and in high temperatures with the a/c on (sometimes up mountains and high temps with a/c at the same time). Also it's running through a slushbox so often low rpm/high load conditions. If it were going to ping it would have done so. Still not gonna put it in the GTR tho...

I take it this converts the 6x ITBs into a single 90mm inlet? Also any particular reason why you're selling it? Feel free to PM me if easier thanks