dorifticon

if anyone has a cheap, sub-200k rb30e long motor in working condition that is taking up space in their shed, let me know a price.

Anyone got a driver's side wing mirror for an r31 skyline? It's an aus-delivered Executive Model, if that makes a difference (it is electric so with electrical connectors would be awesome). Mine's black but don't really care about the colour ( i suspect they weren't paint coded). Hit me up on zero four one 5 838 seven 9 zero if you can help! Cheers Andrew Edit: Also chasing split-fold boot carpet, but that's less of a priority

Sure why not...

Hey I've got a datsun 260z with a L6 motor, have just finished wiring in a haltech e8 with individual coil ignition, GTR yellow top injectors and an r31 dizzy adapted to give the crank signal. Just wondering if anyone knows a place that might be familiar with tuning haltechs? It is already running and has a VERY basic tune, I just want to get some finer tuning so it runs nice and of course cold start and idle. It has a serial port connector which may complicate things. Can anyone suggest a place that won't attempt to rape me through my wallet?

whereabouts you located?

if anyone knows of an r31 sedan boot carpet going cheap that'd be great. Ideally it'd be the one for the later model with the split fold rear seat (i.e. the carpet actually connects all the way up the back of the seat) but really I'll take whatever's around. Andrew zero 4 one 5 838 7 nine zero

All sorted, thanks to Eiji - now I/my old man can drive the r31 and not be stressed about getting stranded if a tire goes!

cheers mate that'd be great, doesn't have to be super flash just something that holds pressure.

Made a separate thread but... If anyone knows of an r31 being parted out, I need a spare wheel/tire (or any 4-stud nissan rwd offset spare tire). cheers Andrew zero 4 one 5 838 7 nine zero

Hey all Some punks broke into my r31 and damaged it, stole the spare tire but didn't steal it. Excess was more than the car was worth so repairing myself. Does anyone know of an r31 (pintara or skyline, shouldn't matter) being wrecked out? I need: -spare wheel (preferably with a serviceable tire) -ignition surrounds and barrell if it's not too hard to pull out. if anyone knows of one with cheap parts, I'm on zero 4 one five, 838 seven 9 zero cheers Andrew

I did this write-up a while ago, some of the info might not be current. http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=112538

Hey mate I take it this is for an RB26dett cylinder head? I'm currently running a rb30dett setup in an r32 GTR and looking to go to single turbo. Currently running 22psi with twin HKS 2530's. couple questions: 1) will this fit r32 GTR? 2) can you post a pic of the turbo installed in the engine bay - want to get an idea of clearances because my cylinder head is sitting 38mm higher. Ideally, can you post a pic of the height of the turbo/plumbing relative to the height of the rocker covers? (ie like the photo you have but from a lower angle, it's hard to tell how high the turbo sits) 3) does this include some kind of dump/front pipe setup to connect up to the stock cat converter position? 4) what is the diametre of the outlet on the turbo? Does it have some way to connect to the stock intercooler setup?

Saw black [R33 GTR] as it pulled ahead of me going south on gungahlin drive this afternoon in the rain. Wife thought it looked better than my black r32 GTR...

Sorry, didn't quite gather what is full race. I have a standalone VIPEC ecu but does this allow some flexibility of using later model ABS units? Any links would be appreciated.

Resurrecting again - I'm currently tossing up whether to attempt the reconditioning outlined in this article or just bite the bullet and buy a new ABS unit. I already had the leaking unit replaced with a second hand unit once - around 6 years ago - but surely the stock of second hand units is deteriorating at much the same rate as the ones in my car. Just wanted to know has anyone identified a source of rebuild seals? Also does anyone have a link to where they are sold new? Quick google search flooded results page with second hand units but I'll either attempt the reco or buy a new unit (even if around $1500... ouch. Figure if it gets me another 20 years, might be able to justify the expense).

Bump - anyone got a pic they can post of their r32 brake switch/pedal interface?

'K, so my brake lights were stuck on, was draining the battery, became a real nuisance. Figured it was the brake light switch - was sticky or something - so had a look under there and saw something strange. As far as I can tell, the idea is that when the brake pedal is fully "up", it's pressing on the switch and the brake light stays off. Then when you press the brake pedal, the button releases and the brake lights come on. But my r32 seems to have a hole right where the button for the brake light switch is (see attached photo). I can't see how that can be right - is there some kind of plug that sits in the hole on the metal platform and gives the button something to strike against? The button seems to move freely so the actual switch is probably ok. Can anyone else post up a pic of how it is meant to look?

The battery (BAT?) one? (bottom row, fourth from the right)

hey everyone Something is draining my battery, with a mate's assistance we tried figuring out what was causing a drain when the car was off by pulling fuses and seeing if it made a difference, there is one suspect which is the fourth fuse in from the right on the bottom row. BUT I searched the forum and the translation that came up shows it (and some others) as "electronic parts" which isn't hugely helpful.' Anyone have any ideas what it is/does?

Well the engine has to come out anyway if you are doing an engine conversion. Also removing a vg30dett from a z32 is a peice of cake compared to doing an engine conversion. This is based on owning both an r32 GTR and a z32 300zx. Provided the turbos are looked after and run in the appropriate boost range (up to 14psi on stock turbos) they last at least 100,000 k's. Mine have lasted 120,000 k's. Removing the engine every 100, 000 k's isn't exactly onerous. But hey if you want to do an engine conversion, with a smaller engine with no vct, and which requires an engineer's certificate, with the intention of saving money, then good for you. Would be interested to see the write up and how much money you saved at the end of it.

You're talking about doing an engine conversion because you don't have the tools to maintain the factory engine that is in there. I don't feel like I should have to point out the issue here. If you've got the tools and expertise (and money) to do an engine conversion, then maintainng a vg30 is a peice of cake.

I am running this combo exactly (including jun accessories) with an rb30 on 22 psi. Drives great. Can't recommend highly enough. Dyno results etc are in my thread.

the vg30dett is a great engine, and the weight balance and short engine length works great in the z32. I don't know why you'd go to the effort of putting a smaller engine in there, especially for a daily driver. The vg30dett is plenty reliable ensuring its maintained properly, and is a nice torquey motor. The nvcts makes it far more pleasant to drive at normal road speeds than the rb26. also the vg30dett is plenty cheap motor to buy too. If you're going to remove the motor anyway, it's straightforward to check all wiring connections, replace all water hoses, bypass plenum hoses and remove EGR, and then it will be at least as reliable as an rb, if not more (very few reports of oil surge etc in the vg30). I can't see the point of this conversion, sorry.

Um, 279 kilowatts at all four wheels on an r32 GTR is "stock-like" numbers? Don't know where to begin with that one. As for 383 kw at the treads being entry level...

If you can't be bothered wading through the thread, the autospeed articles sum it up pretty well: http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_112538/article.html