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New article in autospeed about my r32 GTR with rb30dett build: http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_112538/article.html This is part II of the build - there is a link to part one (the rb26 bolt-on build) in the first para of the article. Let me know what you think!

Since the tune below, have put in a mac solenoid valve to allow proper boost, as well as an external surge tank and used the existing tomei in-tank as a lifter pump and twin detchwerks 300lph pumps in teh sard surge tank. Final result at the dyno day of 387 kw at the treads at 22 psi.

So with the new boost solenoid and the moderately serious fuel pump setup, boost was wound up to 22 psi. On the initial tune it spat out 383 kw, then at the ESP dyno day it threw up a figure of 387 kw (much colder day!) so it's putting out good consistent numbers. Fuel consumption is an issue, sure, but nothing compared to the tire consumption...

Well, it's been a long while between drinks. The main modifications since last time were the mac boost solenoid, which allowed boost beyond 17psi; and the fuel setup. Glenn from ESP re-kitted a used Sard surge tank which had capacity for 3 pumps. At this stage I've employed my tomei 276 lph in-tank as a lifter pump, and put 2 new detchwerks 300lph in-tank pumps inside the surge tank, mounted in the boot. All the lines used are e85 compatible, so once some more petrol stations start selling ethanol nearby, I'll be set as far as hardware goes (just a new tune and more boost required). The repaired clutch has also run in and become way more friendly (still not great in absolute terms, but a massive improvement).

By the way, have you modified the silo at all? I thought rb30e's were only meant to make around 114 kw at teh motor, so expected less at the rear treads.

LOL @ best geto mod. All the zipties, bonnet spacers and general dodginess have finally achieved me the critical acclaim I (and West Belconnen Kustomz, aka Bob's shed) so richly deserve.

Not quite right. Spacing the crossmember down moves the whole cross member - including engine mounts - down. The engine mounts attach to the block, and so spacing down the cross member will leave the clearance between the sump and the crossmember unchanced (ie putting the spacer in there will still move the sump 10mm closer to the cross member, regardless of how you space down the x-member). The thing to have a look at is the existing clearance between the sump and cross-member (esp power steering lines) , and whether you think there will be clearance issues. You may find that it's fine. Remember, if your engine mounts are flogged out, new ones will increase this clearance. The purpose of spacing the cross-member down is to move the entire motor assembly down relative to the bonnet. In an r32 there is a practical limitation on how thick your spacer can be due to the length of the thread on the bolt. Really you couldn't be able to go more than 10mm with your spacer. Overall I don't think the problems would be as great on an r34 as they would with an r32, purely because the r34 comes with a 2.5 litre motor and cross-over manifold as standard, whereas the r32 had either a shorter 2.0 or a taller 2.6 with a side-mounted plenum. On r32s, the issue with the plenum appears to be solved by using the r33 clutch master, but I dunno if the r33 clutch m/c is larger or smaller than the r34 one.

Super interesting read, I'm currently looking to go from twin HKS 2530's to a much larger single with tubular manifold. This info has been hard to find thus far, I vote to sticky.

It's a straight six motor which is long itself, coupled to a ridiculously long gearbox. I tried to do an engine r&r with the gearbox in and ended up bending a clutch plate. If I had to do it again, I would prop the car up as high as I could (front and rear wheels) with engine stands and 10 layers of redundancy for safety. Then I would uncouple the rear shaft, loosen the engine mounts and let the gearbox drop slightly to get to the top 2 bolts. Then I'd undo everthing else, (front driveshaft to transfer case) and put a trolley jack under the gearbox to take the weight. Then, with a friend, undo the rest of the gearbox bolts and slight it out. I think other people have done it with engine and trans attached out the bonnet, but I just couldn't see how it was possible myself.

I looked at this in a fair bit of detail when I was building my rb26/30. My findings (which were reflected in my build) were: -It is possible that cleaning up the heads - especially the exhaust ports - may help. Some advocated removing the "humps" in the exhaust ports (look at the head, you'll see what I mean). -However, the vast majority of people I spoke to advised against actually changing the shape of the chambers or runners, preferring velocity to outright flow capacity. -In my view the tolerances on the head are pretty good in terms of port matching, but you can get a better match by using the gasket and light work on the head, and also the plenum connector and the exhaust manifold. -In terms of paying money for someone to actually shape the ports, I was advised that it would be preferable to spend the dollars on oversized valves (assuming the cams and cam train is being done anyway). In any event, I ended up finding a new head that was being sold from an abandoned build, which had 272/10.5mm cams and springs, buckets etc together with a cleaned up head and standard, re-ground valves (new ones where required). In the end, it flowed enough for 380rwkw, which is slightly more than 500 hp. And being only "cleaned up" rather than ported as such, it doesn't induce lag or anything. In summary, I'd say don't take the risk with porting for a 500hp setup, unless you are super confident the guy can improve over the factory head (I'd be wanting dyno graphs etc).

If you soak the thread in wd40 overnight a couple times, it should loosen up enough to lock 2 nuts on and wind it out. Remember the head is alloy so it shouldn't weld itself in like with cast iron or whatevs. Certainly preferable than attempting easy-outs etc. After that, give the new studs a wipe of anti-seize compound.

As if. I've overtaken plenty of skylines and others on my way to work.

On my rb26/30 build I sourced my braided lines from kando dynamics, ebay seller. Great lines, great price, turned up quick and worked well. He had every conceivable combo for rb26's so probably carries stock for popular rb25 conversions.

PM'd.

Remove and replace rear turbo from r32 GTR engine bay? Pfft, half hour job tops. *ducks*

Nice one, so are they off the rims already, or do they need to be removed? Did you need to modify anything to fit them onto your r32? (I am fitting these on the back, if that makes a difference).

HI mate I'm very interested as I am currently needing to upgrade my rear tire setup to cope with the rb26/30 build. Also the tread depth isn't too good right now. I'm running an r32 GTR with r33 GTR rims on it. The ones still available, these are the new ones, right? How do they go in the wet - completely undriveable or ok? I mean if they're road legal they must disperse water to some extent?

WICKED. I am in for 2 of my cars, one driven by me and one by a mate who is borrowing it. 1) r32 GTR with 26/30 conversion 2) z32 300zx TT, mild bolt on upgrades. Transferring funds etc now. Can't accuse me of not flying the flag for nissan.

I can't see how you would fit a 26/30 combo into an r32 of any kind unless you used an rb26 style front-facing plenum (or why you'd want to run anything but the front-facing plenum). With the GTRs, the main issue that affects the engine mounts is having enough clearance between the big alloy sump and the power steering lines. I imagine that in rear wheel drive configuration, the fact that your sump is a bit of tin could make it possible to mod the sump to allow more X-member clearance, and mod the mounts to drop the motor. In terms of the timing belt cover clearance issue, apparently there is some way of fitting the rb25 cam covers and timing belt cover to the rb26 head etc, that gives more clearance. Once that's done, there's the issue of the twin turbo turbo collector pipe. I got a bit of clearance by grinding off the alloy mounting boss, but still needed to run 20mm spacers in my bonnet hinges.

So long as it's more than a stock supra, that's what counts, isn't it?

Any way of finding out how many confirmed supra members there are?

Also wondering this, on account of them being alloy. I'm more interested in the rear gaurds though - want to get 11" under there and don't want to mess around with tons of bog or fibreglass.

Here's one I took there:

my doodle? Nah, high 300's at the rear treads.

How many cars will actually be required for this to go ahead? I'm sitting on the fence. The splinters are a bit painful but you get that. I've recently had my car dyno'd at esp so not much of a surprise but hey would be nice to pwn some supras. Potentially.