
dorifticon
Members-
Posts
266 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Everything posted by dorifticon
-
Also at 17psi it will be fully open and will limit your boost to 17psi, I was running a vipec system with the OEM solenoid. The MAC 3-port solenoid works with the vipec and is around $40 delivered from the US, the problem was not realised until after the car was on the dyno and so I am up for another ~$400 in dyno fees once the new boost solenoid is in. So don't get stung like i did.
-
when I went to pull my turbos off the first time, they were seized as buggery. Was really hard to crack them off. I ran a tap over the threads and then put a dab of graphite-impregnated anti-seize on them. Then tightened them up the best I could. 5,000 k's later I had to pull them off to do my rb30 conversion. They still were clamped on nicely, but way easier to crack and wind off.
-
You seem to be able to write clearly enough to put in a statement of claim/originating application in the small claims court. Last I checked they could deal with matters up to $5000, that limit may have been increased recently. So long as you clearly attach all your evidence including registration papers etc showing that the car was parked legally and registered at the time, it should be a fairly straightforward matter. Normally people start acting a bit more sensibly when the court officer serves them with a notice to appear. Or, they at least get legal advice and their lawyer tells them they would be better off paying the claim than contesting. Only thing to watch out for is, in some jurisdictions you can't claim legal costs (solicitor fees) in small claims court. I can't remember how it works in ACT has been a while since I put in a case, and the most recent one was settled the day before the hearing. Anyway for $43 or whatever the fee is it's worth it.
-
Coolant Boiling In Top Radiator Hose
dorifticon replied to dorifticon's topic in General Maintenance
Anyone know whereabouts it is on an RB26? Same kind of spot? Maybe I could use the water temp sensor as a bleed point. -
Coolant Boiling In Top Radiator Hose
dorifticon replied to dorifticon's topic in General Maintenance
I had a look at the rad cap that was on there, visually it appeared ok but I did notice that not much force was required to push it down onto the mating surface before twisting the cap. I put in the Nissan oem one and the top hose seems to have firmed up and no more boiling coolant in the top hose on shutdown. Interestingly the Nissan oem one is 0.9 bar and the just jap one is 1.1 bar. So the just jap one must have been really stuffed. -
Coolant Boiling In Top Radiator Hose
dorifticon replied to dorifticon's topic in General Maintenance
OK dumb question - where/what is the bleed screw? -
Coolant Boiling In Top Radiator Hose
dorifticon replied to dorifticon's topic in General Maintenance
well, sure the pressure eventually drops, but bear in mind it doesn't seem to be pressurising even with the engine running and at operating temp. Also, most cars I have had/worked on hold pressure in the top hose until it cools down. One of my mates suggested that the lower seal on the radiator cap - the one for the purge/overflow bottle - may be stuffed and instead of holding pressure, the system is just purging into the overflow tank. So one cheap test/fix will be to put a new cap on the radiator to see if that changes things. I'll post up any results I get. PS re the fan shroud, I did what I could to refit it, but it just wouldn't go. with the big 40mm rad, it moves the shroud backwards to the point that the fan blades foul on it (even though Just Jap claimed it worked with the fan shroud...oh well) -
OK having some problems with the cooling system and this is very frustrating because a) I spent a bunch of money on the motor and can't afford to cook it and b) I feel like I've put a lot of effort into keeping the thing cool, but it's not working. Basically, the car starts and drives as normal, the temp comes up slowly and the needle sits in the middle of the gauge at a 45 deg angle and stays there. With the car parked and running, nothing seems untoward with the possible exception of the top radiator hose being quite soft (ie like it's not taken pressure?). HOWEVER, about 20-30 seconds AFTER the engine is shut down, I can hear a bubbling/gurgling sound coming from the top of the motor. If I hold the top hose, I can feel the coolant boiling as if it was an electric kettle. Clearly it's a concern that the coolant is getting to boiling point. Also of concern is that I was only cruising around, not strapping it out or anything, and it's already pretty cold in Canberra, so god knows what would happen in the summer. Other info: -radiator is a 40mm cooling pro alloy radiator, purchased and installed new a couple of years ago -factory overflow bottle/expansion tank is installed and appears to be working properly -when the car is cold, the radiator is full to the brim. -factory engine fan is in place and appears to be working at idle. However, the fan shroud is NOT installed. -water pump is a new item, put in with new engine - less than 5000kms use. -it's an RB26/30 hybrid motor. -there was a leak in the top heater hose, going into the firewall on the passenger side, and it was losing coolant slowly from here but I re-tightened the hose clamp and it seems to be ok. I have had a search in the faq but that seems to deal more with losses from the overflow bottle. The only other thing I can think of is, being an rb30 block, in net terms the cylinder head is sitting about 28mm higher in the engine bay than it otherwise would be - could this cause issues with bleeding or air bubbles in the system>? Any advice greatly appreciated. THis is really concerning me. Andrew -
-
What Happened When You Added A Fmic?
dorifticon replied to ausdrift's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Painting it black helps its heat sink characteristics. The r32 GTR's had black painted intercooler cores (at least up to ~1992). I don't think it was until the 34 that they started making them raw alloy. As to the why - why do people do anything? why do idiots remove the nice, lightweight, forged alloys from their cars and replace them with big stupid chrome rims that are heavier and redice handling? Because of aesthetics. Big alloy coolers look cool hanging out the front of a bumper, and manufacturers know this. THe vast majority of *factory* coolers I have seen are painted black. -
What Happened When You Added A Fmic?
dorifticon replied to ausdrift's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I had an r33 GTS-t which had no mods other than cat-back exhaust and pod. I put in a big Hybrid FMIC, but unfortunately being a know-nothing chequebook mechanic at the time, it had an entirely unsatisfactory (in retrospect) piping setup whereby it dropped down from the guard in the usual way, went across the front, then had the return pipe snaking back over the radiator to hook up with the cross over manifold. Don't make the same mistake I did. Passengers thought it was better but it was just because it became laggier and the power delivery less linear. Boost would come on a lot more suddenly and crack the rear tires loose in corners. It did stop the heat soak at traffic lights on hot days though. If you are going FMIC, IMO the best way is to do the job properly and get a front-facing plenum, and set it up GTR style. Yes, I know, the inlet runner length, I'll have my flamesuit on before the puter posts this up. -
Actually I reckon the rb30 block sitting the head, and therefore the plenum, up slightly higher would improve access to the lower plenum bolts, and give more hand-space in the critical area which is between the transfer case and the underside of the plenum. Or knowing my luck it makes it worse, more than likely its the latter.
-
Assume this is in low mount configuration twins on an rb26? $800 is a bit of a bargain for that job, it's fiddly and time-consuming. It would work out to be a pretty low hourly rate for a workshop, even assuming they have done it before and nothing goes wrong. Hell if someone here had offered to do it for $800 I'd have considered it carefully. In terms of having room - because most people do turbo-swaps in-car, so long as you have a table or similar to stack the inlet pipes, not much room is required because you'll be working in the engine bay and the parts themselves don't take up much space. A set of $200 ratcheting spanners pay for themselves just on this job alone. So long as you have big 1/2 inch drive sockets (and long extension for removing dumps) as well as good ring spanners, you could just spend the weekend doing it yourself. But $800 is a good price. INteresting they've committed to doing it in a day...
-
Cp Rb30\26 9 To 1 Cr Pistons - Valve Cutouts ?
dorifticon replied to mambastu's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
It's not very flush at all - we had to turn up spacers out of alloy, which are 20mm thick. Looks a bit agricultural. Reasonably confident that it's the "twin turbo" pipe that is causing the problem, rather than the timing belt cover. Im going to a single turbo eventually so assuming I can get a manifold that sits the turbo low enough, it should be possible to get custom piping that clears the bonnet and also allows strut brace to be fitted. [/hijack] -
Has Anyone Here Made A Gtr Rwd Only
dorifticon replied to blue_vl_t's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
See above - there are a range of other benefits you get. However, after thinking about it most of that stuff (diff, alloy guards, bonnet, brakes etc) would be much easier to retrofit to a GTS-t. IMO the only real challenging part would be transferring across the pumped rear guards to the GTS-t, and you are going to need them b/c you will want some seriously wide rear wheels. Lastly I think it would be far, far easier to get an engineer to sign off on a r32 GTS-t with an rb26dett fitted (and brake/diff upgrades) than to sign off on a GTR with the 4WD and god knows what else disabled. That is based on the assumption that legality matters - if track only then clearly it doesn't. -
Based on the list of parts etc that's been quoted above to rebuild motor, or even to put in a tested used rb26, it looks like *cheap* is probably out of the question. It is clear the engine needs to come out. Your big choice at this point is, do you 1) bite the bullet now and start down the DIY path, or do you 2) attempt to just pay money to a mechanic to make the problem go away? Option 2) will seem easier in the short run, but you are dealing with a 20 yo jap performance car, and problems like this can and do come up all the time. IMO you will be better off in the long run, financially and in terms of enjoying your car, if you at least do the engine pull yourself. You can pay a mechanic to do it, and they will fix the problem you have told them about and only that problem. Do it yourself, you will definitely save money, learn a lot and also use the opportunity to fix other cheap maintenance items (ie water hoses, gaskets, etc etc) that will give you a better result for less $$.
-
Cp Rb30\26 9 To 1 Cr Pistons - Valve Cutouts ?
dorifticon replied to mambastu's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I maintained the 8.5:1 scr on my rb26/30 build and was running jun 10.5mm lift cams, and the pistons had fairly serious cutouts in them. Pics are in this thread: If it were me I'd definitely be checking with plasticine - once it's all put together and timing set up how you want it of course you would be carefully turning it over to check no interference but you'd want to know what kind of margin there is for stretch etc, espc if you're playing around with the duration of lobles and/or timing with slider cams etc. But then I'm a fairly risk averse person. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/275548-andrews-r32-gtr-bolt-on-build-thread-phase-i-of-my-mods/ -
Step 1) buy engine crane step 2) print out factory service manual step 3) ... step 4) PROFIT!
-
So are we any closer to having a final count? Do we have to do anything in the way of registering beforehand - or is there just a designated area in the park to turn up to? Also is it in the bit between finance and treasury or is it the park area between the national library and the lake?
-
As noted above, if you are using an rb30e block in rear drive application you avoid some of the costlier fitment issues such as the sump adapter and welding and redrilling the rear of the alloy 4wd sump to mate to the bellhousing. However there are other costs and pains (in addition to mating the head to the block). You will most likely need to run aftermarket oil and water feeds and/or drains to and from the turbo. That high-temp oil drain line and heat wrap isn't cheap. You will need to sort out something about the power steering pump bracket. And depending on whether you are putting into an r32 or r33, this will dictate the level of modification required to get the hybrid 30 block to fit under the bonnet, which is not a trivial task. Also remember the extra deck heigh moves all the hose/intercooler connections on the motor upward, so you need to factor in a way of adapting these to fit. Radiator hoses normally OK because they have sufficient flex but intercooler hoses etc can be a bit tricky. All of this is achievable if you have a reasonably garage full of tools and are prepared to tackle problems as they arise but it all ends up being time and money.
-
Fair enough. The issues with quality/fitment are enough to decide this issue from my perspective. There is very limited space to work with around the plenum of a GTR so any issues with fitment will rule out any knockoffs as an option. Also the amount of screwing around required to remove the plenum with the motor in the car means I will be doing it once and doing it right - having to remove it because of leaks or gaskets not sealing etc is not really an option. It seems as if the genuine greddy ones routinely come up for sale for $900-1000, whereas the hypertune ones are around $2k, so I'll probably go with a greddy one at this stage (together with an r33 clutch m/c).
-
Hi all I've been vaguely thinking about upgrading my inlet plenum on my rb26/30, and have noticed that 3 or 4 vendors have popped up on ebay recently selling the same or very similar cast alloy inlet plenums for the rb26. An example is here: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/EPR-RB26DETT-Intake-Manifold-Plenum-/290513936378?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a3fadffa SOme of the listings state straight out they are copied from the greddy one. In addition to having a larger 95mm inlet, they claim to boltup to the factory throttles and have a much larger internal volume. THe other advantage is, being a matte alloy finish, they don't have the 'cop bait' look about them that some other polished or chromed ones have. Just wondering if anyone has purchased one of these yet, and had any comments they'd like to share. I'm particularly interested in: 1) ease of fitment - did things more or less line up and seal at critical points where it is supposed to, including machined surfaces and bolt holes 2) any interference - eg does it foul on the clutch m/c like many other upgrade plenums 3) inlet piping - how much of a hassle is it to source an adapter flange 4) performance - did it make any noticeable change in performance (good or bad)? 5) overall assessment - am I better off paying for a hypertune or similar?
-
When I was researching the available cams for my build, it seemed like the starting point for designing a cam is how much lift is required, then what is the steepest ramp angle you can get away with for that lift. I think in street cars, and even track driven cars, people want to try and maximise lift but minimise duration for some semblance of driveability and useable low-rpm. As a result I think there's not a great deal of variation in the types of duration available for any given lift.
-
As above - I did mine in 40 mins, then sat around wondering if I'd done it wrong cos it was too easy. You also get the rubber tank seal included in the kit and no wiring to do.
-
Wouldn't turbo selection, compression ratio and intake/turbo manifold choice play more of a role than comparatively minor changes to lift and duration? I mean sure you can probably get away with bigger cams on a 3.0 than on a 2.6 and still have it streetable but they make plenty lumpy cams for the 2.6.