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Spotted black r33 (looked like GTS-t) in O'Connor roundabout pulled off at side of the road, looked like a red hatchback had run up the back of him and they were exchanging insurance details. Hope nobody was hurt ! (didn't look to serious, but you never know).

If you have the room in your engine bay for the adapter plate, (and the $$) I reckon a 6-throttle rb26 intake mated to a VCT-rb25 head, bolted to a rb30 block would be a wicked setup.

What do you mean by "lifter bores"? There is a precision tunnel bored surface in which the actual cam journals sit, but if you're literally just wanting extra room in the cylinder head to swing the taller cam lobes, it's not actually the bores that need to be relieved, it's kind of just a sharp lip between the cam towers - are you actually looking at the head? As the head is alloy, it is as soft as puppy s--t for cutting through, a die grinder with a carbide bit will tear through it like nothing. It's not a precision job, you just need to releive the lip a bit, just be careful when you're doing it as the carbide bit will chop really fast, and also make your movements against the rotation of the cutting bit, if that makes sense, so you can control it better, don't want to slip and cut off a cam tower. Obviously teh head is dismantled when this is happening and cleaned througoughly of swarf after.

Wow didn't even know these existed. Can I ask: 1) Any dummy fitment done to see how these clear the strut towers etc? 2) the collector pipe - does it not fit by a little or is it just a completely different thing? ie is the hard pipe setup roughly similar in configuration to the OEM stuff, just some minor changes, or totally different? Just wondering if it's achievable for the DIYer (most of my inlet is now custom). 3) sorry if it's mentioned elsewhere, but what are the turbos? 4) is it intended that the mounting position of the turbos would enable the OEM y-pipe to connect up to the dumps? Or is completely different setup required?

argh, just deleted my post. Once you factor in the extras for the rb30 conversion (adapter plates, oil pickups, exhaust fabrication, modding alloy sump to bellhousing, etc etc) the cost of the 3.0 vs the 2.8 is line ball. No practical difference. The 3.0 is a major head-fsk to get it all in cleanly and neatly and working. Unless you really like DIY welding/grinding etc, consider giving it a miss. In hindsight I would do the 2.8 (even though the 3.0 build yeilded a pretty good result). Engine characteristics - the 3.0 gives you 2000cc extra but unless you get a different crank, limits your rpm. You will have to adjust driving style (eg grabbing 3rd before 100kph). The 2.8 stroker kits can come with billet crank or full counterweight or both and often rated to higher rpm operation than the 2.6. There's a lot of unexpected hassle with the 3.0 build that you can avoid with the 2.8.

Umm... Just to be clear .... Are you attempting to pick a 10hp difference (or less than 3% difference) between two different dynos at two different workshops? Presumably on two different days? Whatever the numerical difference, there were have to be a whole lot of change in the power delivery to pick it up using the "seat of the pants" dyno as well.

There was a really clean r34 4 door auto selling in canberra for, like, 8.5k, it was a dark metallic silver and looked really clean. It was posted in the Canberra section recently, probably sold now though.

Hi there Just a few q's which I thought might also be interesting to others considering buying (and free bump). 1) What is the rego compliance status of the car? That is, has it been complianced for road use (under SEVS or whatever) and does it come with all paperwork? 2) Is the interior all complete (looks like it is), and did things like air conditioning, power windows, etc etc function prior to engine failure? 3) are you willing to assist in arranging a transport pickup for interstate buyers? Can the car be driven at all under its own power? Please feel free to send me a PM if you prefer, but I reckon prospective buyers would be interested in the above. Best of luck with everything, Andrew

Proengines sell a kit ie sump adapter etc, the guy that runs it, Greg, is a pretty nice guy, he may sell the oil pickup separately, maybe try there. I used it in mine and it's a nice bit of gear (sump adapter too).

Unfortunately I did a stupid thing and test fitted the motor and bonnet with my old flogged out engine mounts, then did the actual install after my new nismo mounts had arrived. Even with the nismo mounts, I don't think I'd want the sump to go any closer to the x-member, really the clearance issue to me seemed to be the power steering hard lines. It was about as close as I would have been comfortable with having to lower that sucker bck into the bay. But I didn't slot the engine mounts or anything, I didn't want my motor sitting lower than it was. Long term I will probably look into the rb25 cam cover solution by which time I'll be runnign a single turbo.

I am running a 10mm spacer between the rails and the k-frame without any suspension/alignment etc issues. You will find that 10mm is about as thick as you can go otherwise there is not enough thread for the nut to wind on fully. Full dimensions etc for the spacers are in my build thread, or http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/333724-spacing-down-the-subframe-to-fit-an-rb30dett-in-an-r32-gtr/ If you replace your old sagging engine mounts with new ones, though, it may not be enough. Had I known I would have looked into what others are suggested re: using rb25 timing belt covers. Also the twin turbo pipe will hit if you're retained stock TT plumbing, can be fixed with bench grinder.

Yeah I'd like to bring the 32 out. It won't be the prettiest car there and driving the 3-plate with the 1.5way on the grass is going to be an adventure, but even so... Andrew

I used to have an r33 GTS-t at roughly the same level of tune as you, and would just like to note that while the forward facing plenum may not net massive kw per se, it does eliminate a lot of intercooler plumbing once you have a front mount setup - I'm assuming your plumbing currently comes up from the drivers side guard, snakes its way across the engine back above the radiator to link back up to the crossover inlet? I found it was a small but noticeable change in response when I had the plumbing shoot straight up into a forward facing manifold. Anyway something to think about. I have seen modified inlet plenums that have been cut and shut to put the throttle body on the front but unless you can weld alloy yourself it may be cheaper to buy one off the shelf.

People used to bolt rb20 heads to rb30 blocks in the old days (like, early 90's) because rb25 and 26 heads were still rare and prohibitively expensive. There is a lot more modding to do to the rb20 head to fit to the rb30 block (eg bore size is different) compared with the other conversions but people did it because they didn't have much choice in those days. Nowadays nobody does it for the reasons mentioned above. In terms of flow, it stands to reason that the head and valvetrain would be modified because stock for stock, taking off the sohc head and putting on the 2.0 twin cam doesn't net that much of a benefit, you have to mod the 20 head to make the whole thing worthwhile IMO (which is what appears to have been done in this case).

If you can avoid going over the dickson pits at all, avoid it like the plague. They seem to hate jap imports. Or at least one guy does. If you can't avoid it, make the car look/sound as stock as possible. If you can get a stock set of wheels that's an easy one, because each time you have to come back for something they can and sometimes do find some new thing to whinge about.

My abs light came on the other day, all fluids were full so I examined the fuse in the driver's side engine bay, it looked fine. Then I pulled apart the connectors on the passenger side near the ABS module, thinking they might be corroded or soemthing, but they looked ok. Then I pulled the relays inside the actual black box. Started it up and light is off. Maybe as a first step clean all the little electrical contacts etc and see if it helps>? Also do a search on "abs light" the solution can be relativley simple or as serious as getting a new motor unit.

Thanks for all the replies, I'm a noob when it comes to suspension. I thought the springs were about as hard as I could live with but then I thought about it and it's really the front springs that shake you around when you go over bumps etc so firming up the rear end shouldn't affect driveability and ride too badly. I think I'll have to start looking into adjustable coilovers at this point rather than trying to experiment with the standard style setup.

320kw, 600nm. Suspension is what came with the car (i/e don't know the spring rate etc) - not coilovers, but towards the very firmest spring rate you could get. Definitely neither springs nor shocks are sagging or flogged. Tires are 235 all round. I agree, something is amiss, heaps of other people have posted power/torque figures well exceeding mine, I just need to get pointed in the right direction to start looking at suspension etc. or alternatively wondering if it's a common problem people have experienced.

Hey all Have finished running in the 3.0 motor and it's all good, except the extra torque has exposed some limitations with the chassis/suspension setup. So I'm not getting anywhere near full throttle on corners, it's lighting up all four at around half throttle or 2/3. We took it for a run today and came out of a corner in second, then floored it til the posted highway speed limit, and the steering got really, really light and the nose started lifting. Not just the rear end squatting under power, but like the nose of the car really coming up. Kind of relying on the back diff locking up to keep it in roughly a straight line. Now I know in the absolute worst case (like in drag cars etc) the front wheels can actually come off the ground, but I've only ever seen that in cars with really light motors and really short wheel bases, like rx3's and the like. I would have thought that with a comparatively mild 3.0 motor I'd be pretty safe from all that, especially with a long wheelbase and a big lump of cast iron in the front. now obviously we aren't allowed to go driving around with a wheely bar, just wanted to know if I have something obviously wrong with my suspension before I go upping the boost etc. Have other people experienced this and what are your solutions? My current suspension setup is nice for cornering but not much good for exploiting the straight line characteristics of the motor. Cheers Andrew

I suppose if the car was too powerful in a rear drive setup, it's always possible to turn down the boost for the street, or have a dual setting (one for dyno comps, one for driving). If money is a hard limiting factor, my advice would be to build up the bottom end capable of supporting your dream power target, and get the best cylinder head you can afford. (I spent $11k on my bottom end, which included some pricey nitto rods, a nitto oil pump, CP pistons, and a bunch of stuff you won't need like sump adapter and bellhousing machining/redrilling). That way, once the long motor is in, if you run out of cash for whatever reason you can at least bolt on your ancilliaries and have a driving car until you can save up more $$ for the rest of the gear, rather than having an unfinished project sitting in your shed frustrating you which ulimately ends up in a parts sellof. Don't worry if you don't have a clear idea, I had no idea whatsoever when I started out, only what I had read here, and even that info didn't cover all the problems I had. You won't know what the problems are til you start and by then it will be too late to turn back, so best just to jump in.

I think a reliable 400kw install can be had for $20k fairly easily, even as low as $15k if you're selling off your old parts. My only hesitation is whether the rb25 gearset is significantly weaker than the 5-speed in the r32 26. Of course this assumes you are prepared to wait sometimes for bargains, only spend money where it's needed, and do 95% of the stuff yourself. Buying parts from abandoned projects is a great way to save yourself some $$, for example I bought a complete head with my desired valve train setup for a little over a couple grand, whereas buying the components and having a shop set it all up would have run me easily more than $5k. Just an example. Best thing is to sit down and price out everything you need down to the dollar. Also think outside the box - for example running an rb26 head would get you a big side entry plenum and twin turbo configuration for a lot cheaper than simply throwing out cash for store-bought bolt-on stuff for the rb25 head. Sure you lose VCT but you gain ITB's. IMO it would be cheaper to modify OEM cast iron manifolds and run twin turbos capable of supporting 400kw than to just buy a 6boost manifold and a big single. Anyway something to think about at least. Unless you are thinking of paying someone else to do it all, in which case I have no idea what it could cost.

Hey I've got a thread in overhauls, but in summary: -Spaced the x-member down by 10mm using steel spacers I made up (dimensions in my thread) -removed one of the ribs on the bonnet where it fouled the timing cover (note if the underbonnet felt is in place it covers this) -spaced back of bonnet up 20mm (this was for the turbo pipe) -ground off the "twin-turbo" boss on the alloy collector pipe. http://www.skylinesa...e-i-of-my-mods/ By far the biggest screw around is the twin turbo pipe, possibly explains why so many people run singles. Glen at ESP said mine was the first 3.0 tt setup he'd seen (in person, I presume). I also considered the bulge thing but baulked at the idea of attempting to graft to the alloy bonnet (too think to weld also). In hindsight I wish I had though of modifying an r32 GTS-t bonnet as I understand they are metal, and then could weld a metal bulge on.

RB26/30 forged bottom end Cleaned up 26 head JUN 272's/10.5mm, and matching springs/retainers, stock valves (3-angle grind) injectors, intercooler, pump and VIPEC (all usual stuff) Stock exhaust manifolds, ports matcheed to HKS 2530's 320kw, 600nM at 17psi. Boost solenoid would not allow anymore boost. Will try again soon with new boost solenoid, more/external fuel pumps and maybe splitfires to replace stock coils.

On the rb26, the top bolt hole doesn't line up because on the 2.6 motor the top bolt is in the cylinder head, and on the 3.0 it's in the block. Pretty sure it's the same for the 2.5. The RB30 bracket has all the mounting bosses at the same depth, but on the 2.6 the top hole has a thicker casting. I tried to use the rb30 bracket, but it sits the pump too far back. Easy solution is to just hacksaw off the excess material from the 2.6 bracket, the cast iron is pretty soft and it's not difficult or time consuming to get a nice cut that sits everthing neatly and then you know you're belt lines up straight. I haven't had any problems with mine after 2000 kms. My 2c.

Hi all I am selling my catch can that I bought from Just Jap, it is an autech style one that sits across the cam covers. It works great, the line going into the can was brown but the one coming out was clean, so it's a good solution even on an unknown condition motor running 17psi. The only reason I am selling it is because with the RB30, the deck is too high and this no longer fits under the bonnet. (which reminds me - don't buy this for an rb30dett in an r32 unless you know something I don't). Anyway, these sell from Just Jap for $195, I'm selling for the bargain price of $100, plus post or pick up in ACT. It's had roughly 6 months active road use and is in great condition. Here's a pic of it installed in my car: (you can get the reinforced anti-kink hose from Just Jap, can't remember hos much but it's not that pricey). Easiest way to contact me is to shoot me a text on my mobile, 0415 838 790.