Nigel Nichols

RB30DE in a R32 4 Door

Story goes: quote " same speed as the car next to me (so he couldn't get past), about 70km/h, in a 70 zone..." unquote I won't say you deserved what eventually happened because you didn't. However as you stated you were using you car as a block (so he couldn't get past). You knew it and so did he. The whole issue got started from there. Had you eased over and let him go, it would have stopped there for you. Sorry for your damage, but "you" could have avoided it. Nigel

I did mine for a RB30DE. http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/P...take/Plenum.htm Nigel

Both my R32 and R33 have the electric front air dam that drops down from under the front bumper. The R32 is wired to be down at all times unless I need to lift it to gain ground clearance a bad driveway etc. I will set the R33 one up in the same manor Nigel

I have used a RB25DE "auto" ecu to run a RB30DE engine in a R32 factory 5 speed manual. No issues what so ever. In fact it seems the ecu still knows when I select any gear as the engine RPMs ramps up 200 rpms as would to carry the load of the original auto tranny going into gear. So that means the ECU is still receiving feedback from the manual gearbox in my case. I haven't tried to see what errors code I get, still might get the 54 as you do but by all accounts there is no issue running the auto ecu on a manual. Nigel

Nissan FAST says it is definitely a 31036-21U00 Control Unit-Shift for RB25DET 4 speed auto. Basically the auto tranny ECU I think someone else already said auto ecu Nigel

Do you mean you see the rev counter need jump out of the corner of your eye. Is the engine actually reving up as well or just the needle on the counter dial jumping about. Nigel

Nissan FAST show a different part number for the GTR one versus the GTS to GTS25DET. Can't tell what is different about it sorry. Might have to takes your with you and compare the GTS one. Nigel

There are some spare parts regulators available. What is the part number of your alternator. I'll see what I have got. http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/Alt.htm Nigel

I think you will find that if you used the pistons out of the RB25DE it will raise the compression. My understanding is the DE pistons have a large dome than the DET's but do some research to confirm. I used the RB25DE pistions in my RB30DE rather than the 30 pistons to gain higher compression. Here in NZ we are not effected by such things as removing a turbo since it is reducing the engine output. I don't understand why the aussie authorities have an issue with reducing engine output. Nigel

I think for some people its not about owning any kind of car to satisfy themselves but are more concerned about what other people think of it. Its other peoples opinion that count. For some folks if it doesn't have a turbo they give it no time. Usually the first question they ask "How fast does your car go bro?" because going fast is what counts to them, makes me a bigger man, or something like that. I have had a RB30DE in my R32 for some time now and when I'm asked what engine my car is running (bare in ming its is a GTS so should have RB20DE) and I tell them its RB30DE they immediately ask to have a look and always offer their concrats to me for doing something different. They know it will hold its own for along side a a mild tuned RB20DET and they also know it would loose ground against a RB25DET. Even those that are turbo fans offer me the thumbs up becasue they respect that its something different. I have often mention turboing it and they say no, leave it as it is. I would still own a Autech R32 (might manual convert it though). I wouldn't be going across the street just to tell someone about it, but if they ask and want to see I bet most would offer the respect for being different. Nigel

Ah sorry not had the 23100-70T17 apart. Mostly I rebuild the Hitachi units. The small rear bearing is the most difficult to get off. I grind the outer bearing ring to allow all the balls to drop out and the outer ring falls off then just use a linish belt to grind away the inner ball race until it loosens and slides off. There is not much room to get a puller around it. By all accounts the front bearing is a slide fit both on the shaft and in the end cover. Just note the bearing numbers beofre you remove them, any bearing dealer handles them, not just sparkies. Nigel

The whistling could be the belt slipping. Undo the lock-block bolt and turn the tensioner bolt a couple of turns. See if that helps. Maybe also the bearings are done with life. They can be replaced. Brushes shouldn't make it whistle and yes they can be replaced. I rebuild them for fun so heres some info http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/Alt.htm Yours can be serviced. Nigel

Once you have tightened the tensioner bolt just tighten the lock block bolt. Just make it hand tight. No need to over do it with a 25 foot torsion bar. The bottom main pivot bolt only needs to be reasonably tight. The belt squealed when the engine was cold until the belt warmed a bit and gripped better. Nigel

Hehehe sorry mate. I'm in Hamilton, New Zealand. If you can take some pics though and send them to [email protected] Nigel

There should be a 5mm eyelet that connects to a small bolt on the back of the alternator for the earth. Then a larger 8mm eyelet that connects to the larger BAT bolt. The two wire plug can only go one way. The plug connector in the first pic of the web page below should be the heavier guage wire. http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/Alt.htm Nigel

Some R31 Skyline RB20DET (red top engine) came with a 70amp. R32 RB20DETs should all have a 80amp. Then there is the 90amp used on R33's RB25 etc. The thing is just because an alt came off a RB20DET engine doesn't mean it was the factory unit. Alt could have been swapped out at some stage. In most cases the 70amp is fine unless you running some high power draw items, eg. big amp sounds etc. The 80 and 90 amp units will just cope better with the load. You certainly do not have to match the alt to you RB30 block. But what I would suggest is getting the alt with the smaller pulley (69mm instead of the 73mm). That way the alt will be spun slightly faster. The alt in question would be the Nissan 23100-70T05 (Hitachi LR190-722) 90amp. It has the 8mm BAT bolt versus the 6mm on most others. Still a direct swap on all RB engines. You will just need to change the eyelet on the cable for the BAT terminal to 8mm. I know of 17 different alternator factory fitted from R31 to R33 Skyline etc. Some made by Hitachi and others Mitsi. The odd Bosch on in Australia. http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/Alt.htm Nigel

Yeah there should be a label on it on the back/side area. Some are underneath. Might have to use a small mirror to spot it. Cost depends on the alt model. Also the part number will telle what amp the alt is. You may need to use a 90amp model Nigel

Your alternator should be working between 13.8v to 14.3v to maintain the electrical load. Sounds like the voltage regulator is on its way out. Once the engine is running the battery is "not " running the electrical items. The alternator is meant to carry the entire electrcal load. It will replace the charge to the battery after startup or draw from the battery if electrical items were used while the engine wasn't running, but once battery is charged the alternator just delivers enough current to manage the load. What is the part number of your alt. Is it a Hitachi or Mitsi branded model. I rebuild them from home, "may" have some suitable parts Nigel

I never jack mine from the sills. I always place the jack under the lower suspension arm close to the wheel. Only have the raise the jack 40-50mm to get ground clearance. I extended the winding handle so it can clear the body. The handle can operate at an accute angle. Nigel

just updated the alternator info pages of my web site http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/Alt.htm Nigel

I would expect your 80amp R32 GTST was a Hitach number LR180-731B or LR180-705B, both with 6mm BAT post and 74mm pulley. Your 90amp R33 replacement by the sound would be the Hitachi LR190-722. 8mm BAT post with extended and 69mm pulley. However there is a number of 90amp Mitsi alternators factory fitted to the R33 GTST's (just quoting numbers so others know what they can use). Nigel

Here is a spreadsheet of the parts I know of http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/A...Alternators.xls There is a "main" sheet for bearings, brush etc and then separate shets for each type Alt I rebuild stimps Here is triodiodes Ebay Store http://stores.ebay.com/triodiodedcelectricandtractor What part number alternator do you have? Nigel

Its about what it is, not just how fast it can go. For some people speed and horsepower is not the only criteria for a car. Rarity, history or simply because they want to can be part of the reason for ownership. Factory wise I understood the Autech RB26DE was pretty good on the power stakes. I understand the RB26DE 217hp (162kw) R32 RB20DE is only 155hp (115kw) R32 RB20DET is 212hp (158kw) Maybe the one they dragged was nackered. Bare in mind all 200 built were also autos. 4wd too I think. Certianly if I was able to find and afford one of those R32 Autech RB26DE's I would. I wouldn't expect it to outrun a turbo Wonder how many are left. Nigel

Hey guys. Skyline alternators is something I have a lot to do with because I rebuld/refurbish them as a hobby from home. I am only interested in rebuilding the Hitachi units. Here is some examples of my rebuilds. http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/Alt.htm A bit of info on alternators. All Jap R31, R32 and R33 Skylines use the Hitachi or Mitsi built alternators.They are all internal cooling fan type. R31 Aussie/NZ market use a Hitachi outside fan type or Bosch Internal fan type. Physical fittment to the engine block they are all interchangable. Adjuster bracket, belt alignment are all matched. Wiring wise the outside fan Hitachi from Aussie R31's are different. All the others including the Bosch is the same. Some R33 Skylines use a 8mm BAT terminal, the rest have 6mm BAT terminal. Easy to sort. The earth terminal (5mm) and the main two pin ignition/dash light plug are all the same except for (again) the Hitachi outside fan unit found on the Aussie R31's. Some have a smaller belt pulley (69mm versus 73mm on other units). If your engine is to do a lot or high rpm work then the larger alt pulley is better as it will help avoid over reving the alternator when its not necessary. If the alternator has a Hitachi number starting with LR170 it is a 70amp unit. LR180 are 80amp and LR190 are 90amp. The Bosch units found on Aussie R31's RB30's are 110amp. No alternator should be running at its max amp output during normal operation. If it is it's not spec'd right for the job and will give up the ghost sooner than it should. No alt should be operating at more than 50% its max output rating. If you are going to have lots of high power drawing items running, air con, high wattage headlights, spots, or big sound systems then you are better to go for the 90amp plus units. I have found that internal parts ARE available for "some" of the units. Don't even consider buying the parts from a sparky or Nissan. I recently priced a Voltage Regulator for a Hitachi built alternator for a RB20DET R32 Skyline. $153 from sparky and ....wait for it..... $675 from Nissan ex Japan. I can't buy parts wholesale as I'm not a register sparky. However Ebay USA comes to the rescue. Brand new regulator.... $35 US. I recently ordered one and a rectifier and a slip ring to complete two other alts. Buy the number of item the seller has sold (over 18000) and the positive feedback from these sales they are quality parts. He is a surplus parts dealer. Nigel