turbomad

Yes I've got one, the build quality is excellent and I think there actually bigger and cheaper than a used GTR one, and most importantly it works great, always cold to touch.

Hey macka that's a good result and saves you heaps of $$$ not having to go external, even with the stock turbo and a Profec b I have to turn the balance knob all the way over to sharp as well as selecting the overboost setting on the back just to stop the boost from continually rising with rpm's, so you've done well.

The factory gauge may not be accurate but it has nothing to do with where it gets it's reading as anywhere off the plenum will give you the correct psi that the engine is feeding off.

If the exhaust gases can't flow through the wastegate then they must pass through the turbine wheel causing it to spin faster and therefore increase boost.

Has anyone tried the 5 puck clutch that Uniqueautosports in Sydney sell, $595 exchange.

I've taken mine from the hose off the plenum that feeds the electrical boost sensor for the indash gauge.

Yes I believe "whatisname" is currently using the LT12 with good results 236rwkw, I'm sure he can tell you more.

Yeah do the dump pipe and see if you can die-grind the wastegate hole a little larger, you may need a larger flap if you go too big but I think there's enough cover to take a couple of mm off without modifying the flap. meggala-you can drive with the actuator rod/arm disconnected, not the hose to the actuator though, anyway macka knows what I mean.

By the sounds of it your wastegate is now too small for your turbo, to test it disconnect the arm from the actuator so your wastegate flap is basically free and open all the time, drive the car at full throttle, it will be laggy because the wastegate is fully open but when you get close to redline you will soon discover what your minimum boost level now is.

Yeah I'd say leave it off because the engine doesn't have to actually start to test compression, just crank I think.

Yes as Whatisname said it all comes down to cost, I paid $500 for the Unichip and $300 for the so called tune! Now with the SAFC I'd still have to add an ITC to get the same tuning features as the Unichip, which would throw it way over the $800 mark. Now that I've got the Unichip I'll try and get it right, if I can't then sure I'd consider an SAFC, time will tell.

As I don't live in Melb I haven't shown him yet, he assured me that there's no way he would have left the A/F ratio at 10:1, so believe me come Sat I'll be sticking around watching his every move making sure he gets it right this time.

Yes my so called Unichip tune wasn't actually that in tune was it, however he will be fixing it this Sat, and if he can't for some reason then I'll get my money back. So I might be back to check up on his work.

Don't live in Melb but will be there this Sat 20th.

That "nengun" place in Japan also has new AVC-R $807 and SAF-C $512 , Power FC alone $1200, do you need the hand controller once the car is tuned? Has anyone bought anything off them, I mean do you end up paying for things that will never arrive?

Before the PFC you had 197rwkw with no ECU mods at all, how? My R33 has the same mods as yours and made 148rwkw @ 10psi with the A/F ratio mainly in the high 10:1's, with the ability to tune the air and timing that the PFC gives you, then yes I believe 198rwkw is possible, although some people on this site would have you believe otherwise, however before the tune I can't see how you made 197kw.

It looks very similar to the one I had on my old vl turbo, got it at AVO, only difference is mine had a plumb back port as well as to atmo. To adjust it unlock the nut then screw the hex nut anticlockwise to make the valve easier to open, clockwise would do the opposite obviously.

Turbosmart Gated boost controller, new type $65.

Any aftermarket computer is EPA legal provided it has closed loop function(uses oxy sensor to correct mix at light loads). I'm not sure whether the PFC does, could make highway cruising abit thirsty!

Yes, just before boost, how? To estimate beforehand when your going to be on boost and manually turn it on is annoying, to have it come on while the car isn't moving is pointless, to hook it up on a full throttle switch is the same as having it come on in boost, a temp sensored switch on point will see you dump all your water at the traffic lights, perhaps having it come on at 1psi might be better than my current 7psi, but at normal acceleration at only a few psi you don't need it. If your real keen buy the Autospeed intelligent waterspray controller, it uses boost, temp, injector duty cycle among other things to control the switch on/off point.

I've used the 2nd windscreen washer pump(rear window) and plumbed 2 garden mist spray nozzles into it with a check valve that I got at the local Holden dealer(stops water from syphoning out). It's triggered by a Hobbs pressure switch at 7psi and I also have a manual ON button in the cabin. The sprays are mounted as far in front of the cooler as I could, right behind the number plate. After a few foorays into boost the cooler is literally soaked to touch, so it would serve no purpose in having the pump come on whilst stopped at a red light, coz soon as you take off there is plenty of water there to see you threw to your next journey into boost.

Put me down for two of them, if anyone else will go halvies and take the other two that is? Remember a 16" tyre will flex more than a 17" and offer better traction at the drag strip, with a good tyre of course.

How much kw does a stock GTR have @ all 4 wheels? I'm guessing it would be less than 177, which is why I'm a little confused why EthanR33 is selling his car for one thats older, and has less power than the one he's currently got? Is it the 4 wheel traction your after or just the fact you WANT to own a GTR? I'm not having a go I'm just curious?