turbomad
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Everything posted by turbomad
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something diferent.-spool time hks 2530
turbomad replied to surfiemullet's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I'm with INASNT on that one, the V6 is very weak in the crank/bottom end and will see you spending way too much money on it for probably little return, and then it will most likely be unreliable, don't even consider it, better off trasplanting another engine in-RB25,30 or VG30. -
Well it won't make the same power as the bigger turbo but chances are your probably not using the GT28 to it's full potential anyway? What psi and rwkw is your current setup making now? Even if you drop some rwkw at the topend the low-mid range of the smaller turbo might just make it as quick to drive around town as the GT28, as an example a friend has a turbo EA Falcon with a massive turbo making 300rwkw, yet it only manages a 13.3 1/4, now a Skyline can do that with only 200rwkw.
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OK so everyone swears by BP, however doesn't BP use Ethanol in there fuel?
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Disconnect this sensor and gain POWER!
turbomad replied to turbomad's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
OK if it's the VCT, then by leaving it unplugged does it keep the timing advanced through the entire rev range, is that right? -
Disconnect this sensor and gain POWER!
turbomad replied to turbomad's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
OK here's a pic, it's the one below the Fuel press reg and to the right of the temp sensor, can anyone confirm what it is and does? -
Disconnect this sensor and gain POWER!
turbomad replied to turbomad's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
JAY95R33 that's it, the 3 inch long hex shape thing that goes into the head. I'm not sure if it controls the VVT as I thought that was the one on the end of the camshaft but maybe it's all related as BHDave said by switching it on and off it made a difference on the dyno, ask your mate whether he attached the switch to this or not? It's definately not the knock sensor because I believe that is on the block not the head. -
A mate took his R33 to Dyson Rotary to have a power run done on the Dyno, everything is stock except the exhaust and an EBC(11psi), as you can imagine the power curve was up and down all over the place, for the next run they disconnected a sensor and did another run and suddenly the power curve was alot better and a good 10kw above the previous one everywhere! When he asked what that sensor was all he said was "it's a trade secret". The sensor he unplugged was the one above and to the right of the temp sensor, that goes into the head. Does anyone know what this sensor does and is it safe to drive around with it unplugged?
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Get rid of the truck intercooler and run 10psi without intercooling and I bet that it will run alot better than his current setup. I ran 13.6 in a Calais with just 2.5"exhaust, tiny AVO intercooler and 12psi.
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From 2000rpm to 80000rpm the corrections are as follows -4, -6, -4, -12, -15, -14, -10.
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Standard exhaust on a VL turbo, he must be the only one left in Aus, that would explain why he can't hold boost though, can't feed the engine boost if the gas's can't get out.
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Mine used to drop a little too but never 10psi, get some more details of exhaust, intercooler, boost control etc...and we can have a better diagnosis. I read somewhere the wastegate opening and the exhaust wheel on the VL's are small and can benefit from being opened up a little, so at 15psi he would have alot of back pressure in the manifold which would literally push open the wastgate and hence the drop in boost, I would suggest not running more than 12psi and see if that's any better.
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lukits01- the balance knob is nearly all the way over to the SHARP side on my car, start in the middle and if boost rises with RPM then turn towards the SHARP side and if boost falls as RPM increase then go towards the MILD side. SAFC settings are dyno tuned for each individual car so should never be copied, mine vary between -6% to -13%.
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Many people have done it, here's how I did it, the exhaust you have is fine but include a dump pipe and a hiflow cat ,or if the one you have is 3" then that's fine. Hybrid intercooler 600x300, Profec B EBC @12psi, or a manual bleed if you can't afford the EBC, SAFC to correct the A/F ratio and that should see you there. My tune was done in 4th gear and made 195rwkw and 208rwkw in shootout mode, in 3rd it would easily make 200rwkw in normal mode as it reads higher in 3rd, just depends which gear your tuner prefers. Oh incidently I also replaced the fuel pump with something better(Bosch) as I read somewhere the stockie isn't too flash but not too sure, maybe do a search.
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Who bought the Hybrid Intercooler Kit - Performance gain
turbomad replied to a topic in General Automotive Discussion
I can't really say how many kw's I had before the intercooler went on but before the SAFC was tuned it had 168rwkw and now it has 195rwkw, 208rwkw in shootout mode. -
Factory electronic boost control on GTST
turbomad replied to snake's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
snake all R33's have that solenoid and it doesn't control boost like an EBC, it just opens at around 4800-5000 rpm and bleeds a little air off to increase boost by 2psi as steve said. If you watch your boost gauge you'll see what we mean. To fit an EBC simply remove the solenoid first. -
I think they use a MAP sensor and not an Airflow meter, so no.
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Anyone with AutoSpeed Membership - Cooler Flows??
turbomad replied to a topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Here's the mass list... -
Anyone with AutoSpeed Membership - Cooler Flows??
turbomad replied to a topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Here are some results: FLOW= 1st Trust RX7 2nd RX7 S6 3rd STI 4th RX7 S4 5th RX7 S5 the Supra was 8th and the R31 was 11th. Mass= 1st STI 2nd Trust RX7 3rd GTiR 4th Soarer 5th RX7 S6 followed by both RX7 S4,5. -
Keep my Water/Air intercooler or get a Air/Air
turbomad replied to S14Drift!'s topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I've never really liked water/air coolers, too many things that can go wrong, water leak, pump not working etc... a good front mount does the job and looks better too, not so messy. -
Yeah I had the same trouble, one bolt very had to get to, if you do the other ones up as tight as possible and the hard one fairly tight it shouldn't leak, get someone to heat up a spanner with an oxy and give it a bend, it helps.
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My car actually made 6rwkw less with a Unichip (long story, don't ask) I now use SAFC. If you want 240rwkw your probably in the PowerFC market.
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Yes I understand how it works, but some members made comments in another thread that the idea of having a catch can is to also block the PCV valve off as well, I'm contemplating whether or not to do it, that's all.
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Not all stock ECR33 ECUs are the same
turbomad replied to TomR33's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Mines the same JAY I think each plug has a seperate igniter, maybe this was Nissan's first step towards series II engine, I hope I havn't got the SII turbo though. -
It doesn't matter if the can is visible as long as it plumbs back to the intake and not to atmo. Basically you just want to filter the blowby before it get's sucked up into the engine again, that's why the debate over blocking the PCV valve, with it in place whenever your not in boost the gases will enter the plenum directly, no filtration. I havn't blocked my PCV valve yet and my catch can is totally clean suggesting that most of the blowby is actually sucked out when not in boost, almost defeats actually having one.