turbomad

Well I assumed all power figures were rear wheel, the owner said it was loosing traction on the dyno so they only rev it to 7000rpm and not 9000, the car has produced it's best figure of 680rwhp and 580awhp in QLD, apparently all work was done by SUBZERO his bro-in-law, lucky boy.

On Saturday I saw a 560rwhp GTR32, did he show on Sunday?

As an example of how hot the exhaust housing gets, there was a Vl turbo at Easternats with a high mount turbo, they took it for a quick drive before they had a chance to put a heatshield over it and the paint work on the bonnet fried, so I imagine the oil would too if shut down immediately, look don't sit there for ages, 1 min is usually all it takes for street driving and perhaps 3 min after a drag race.

At the Easternats Horsepower Heroes Dyno comp an Aussie delivered GTR32 made 560rwhp. I talked to the friend of the owner and he said that it was slipping on the rollers at 7000rpm and so were unable to rev it to it's redline of 9200. Previously they have been able to achieve 680rwhp at fullboost (2bar)and revs. The car was driven from Queensland to Melbourne and averaged 500kms to a tank of fuel, apparently the owner is related to the owner of Subzero. The plates are "ONBAIL" the car is still using twin turbos I didn't ask what they were, it also has 100hp NOS fitted, it has run a 10 sec flat 1/4 mile, probably on street tyres which looked semi-comp anyway, the guy said it can light up all 4 wheels at 110km/h very scary, well that's about all the info I got and sorry I didn't bring my camera.

The HKS 2835 would definately make more power than a stock turbo off a RB25.

I think what your thinking of is like the system that those race trucks use where 1 turbo feeds boost into the 2nd turbo's intake thereby increasing the final boost the engine recieves, really wouldn't work on stock R33 turbo's though, and not practical for a street car. Another idea would be to setup a 2nd turbo after the dump pipe of the first so that both turbo's recieve all the gas flow of 6 cyclinders, hence no extra lag but double the airflow, similar to the Supra twin turbo.

The person in question has posted items for sale on this forum, I paid for a set of injectors that I'm still waiting on, he refuses to reply to emails. Does anyone know him or has anyone else been frauded?

This is mine, it has a purple pearl top coat which doesn't really show up in the pic though...

14.7:1 is perfect burn, for cruising that is not full throttle.

I was under the impression that there were two ways, Traction or Drift, what's this all round setup?

With those mods your A/F ratio will most likely be rich so a SAFC would be needed to tune for max performance.

My mods are the usuall exhaust and filter plus EBC, FMIC and SAFC. One thing I discovered about the Unichip is that it can only advance timing, so they retard the base timing and then they have to tune it back in or something.

I've heard the 2540 have miss matched comp/exh housings or something, do a search maybe it's on the NZ site. If you must go HKS what about the 2835? I think the 2540 might be stretching it's legs at 250rwkw.

Tell me does the car feel any faster with the UNICHIP on, I'm curious coz mine didn't. After the so-called tune of the Unichip I was apparently making 198rwkw, not that it felt like it, so I took it along to a Skyline dyno day and only managed 165rwkw with the power curve all over the place. Needless to say I got my money back and fitted an SAFC, I returned to the same dyno where I made 168rwkw untuned(that's 3kw more than Unichip) and 188rwkw with the SAFC tuned. Although peak power only went up 20kw at one point in the rev range a 44kw increase occured, and that you can FEEL! 210rwhp is less than 160rwkw.

INASNT check out www.horsepowerinabox.com, they make adaptors to fit a GT28 to a R33 which according to them is a great turbo for the RB25 as it makes good power down low and up high, the GT30 has the right flange(T3) but is a little laggy.

I'm sure the RB30 block looks identical to the 25 so why tell the insurance company what's inside, there's a million 5.7l commodores insured as 5.0l's.

Have a look at www.uniqueautosports.com.au and www.horsepowerinabox.com , they both have various clutches to suit at a reasonable cost.

Well the SAFC is actually a piggy back system in that you still retain your standard ECU, it only does air/fuel ratio not timing however the timing is fine set at factory setting of 15 deg. I have similar mods to yours and without the SAFC my car carried on a bit as well mainly due to the over rich A/F ratio, but I was still able to run 11psi. I would go the SAFC II as your best off with the latest stuff although there is nothing wrong with the earlier model.

Rev210 why don't you put the car on a Dyno and set the SAFC up properly, what's all this guessing A/F ratio according to timing crap?

Yes I too am wondering whether or not it's worth renewing my membership, I mean who the hell wants to read a review of a new Excel or some other shitbox! What happened to all the performance cars?

Can't make 300hp you say, 203rwkw is 272rwhp, I think he would be losing more than 30hp through the drive train hence a 300hp+ at the flywheel.

KillerT I had a Malpassi along with a fuel press gauge to check on things, one thing I noticed is that from day to day the fuel press seemed to vary, some times at cruise it would just jump up for no reason, I asked around and everyone agreed that they are cheap and not to be used on a car tuned on the edge. Sard or Bosch make good ones but are around $400.

Well I've got a 95 model and my A/F ratio was 10.5:1 before the SAFC tune, so either the ECU has been fiddled with or maybe your fuel pump is not flowing the best or down on press, either way good result, I only managed 188rwkw@12psi and that's with the SAFC, no dump or hiflow cat though do you think the dump is a worthwhile mod?

If you get around 600x300x75 you'll be fine EVEN with the stock turbo, some people will have you believe that your turbo can't flow enough air through this intercooler and that you'd be better off with a small one, even the stock one (yeah) but the fact is that my car made more power with this intercooler than with the stockie, so if things aren't flowing properly how come I'm making more power? You can't have one without the other I say.

Ooh extra injectors=trouble. Do yourself a favor and pull them off, if you need more fuel up the pressure and if it's still not enough get 6 higher flowing ones. The problem with injectors b4 the throttle is that you don't know for sure if all 6 cylinders are getting an even amount of fuel, sure the exhaust analyser reads a nice 12:1 but that's a combination of all 6 going out the exhaust, piston no.6 could be way too lean if you know what I mean.