turbomad

That's a beauty canary's for an empty container not connected to anything haha! How did you go with the roadworthy? Did they pick on your pod too?

Well I don't do it myself but I get it done on a Dyno, the leaner the mixture the more power you will make, most tuners aim for a mixture of 12.0 - 12.5 A/F ratio.

Yes the AFM is held to the partition by the adapter, the length is basically the entire distance from the strut tower to the front of the car and the width was determined by where the AFM ended off the intake pipe/rubber hose thing.

Why not tee into the hose Nissan use to feed the in dash boost gauge, it runs right across the brake master cylinder.

Venting to atmo is the easiest way to set up yes, but it's not legal, I got a canary on my vl turbo for that setup. INASNT the hose was fairly cheap can't remember how much, it's funny I pulled the BOV off the other day and there was some oil around there but not in the catch can, maybe it was always there from before I fitted the can, don't know.

I'm glad you like my box boys! Yes I agree it would be harder fitting 2 pods in a box, make it out of cardboard first then trace it onto aluminium.

Well I guess it can come from both, seeing as our Skylines are still farely new low km cars it's unlikely that boost will slip past the rings pressurising the sump and forcing oil out the rocker, this is mainly a problem with cars running very high boost.

I got the hose from ENZED, and I don't know why there isn't any oil in there, previously I didn't have any filtration in there but put some in after reading this post and it was spotless when I opened it.

Here's one I made, used an oiled sponge for filtration, nice and legal. It actually doesn't get any oil in it at all so I wouldn't bother with a drain hole.

Here's whats inside...

OK this is not a GTR but the principle is the same, built it from aluminium, powder coated it and also use a bit of 90mm PVC pipe to feed some cold air in from the lower bumper.

They look shit as they stick out the guards, GTR guards are pumped out alittle to accomodate the wider wheels.

From memory I read somewhere that the stock turbos are good for 240-250rwkw.

Anything over 12psi would be a waste as the stock turbo is running out of it's effiency curve, for eg. at 11psi my car makes 184rwkw and at 12psi it makes 188rwkw so you can see it wouldn't be worth risking blowing up the turbo for another couple of kw that I might get at 13-14psi. Remember it's airflow that creates power not just psi, so a larger turbo at 10psi would make more power than I'm currently making at 12psi with the stockie.

Every Auto has a stall converter but there usually set very low like 1500rpm, a HI stall convertor just replaces the stock one, and no it can't be switched off coz it's sort of like a clutch that won't fully engage until the set rpm. The car won't always be at 3500rpm(eg) but at the slightest press of the accelerator the rpm's will jump up to 3500, that's why the fuel economy is effected.

HI Stall big turbo combinations work really well, say your turbo doesn't make boost until 3300rpm, by getting a 3500rpm HI Stall as soon as you put the foot down your at 3500rpm instantly and at boost. There is a down side to it though, wheel spin is quite vicious and fuel economy is down while cruising as the convertor is basically slipping until 3500rpm.

You don't need alot of power in a GTR to pull 12's, that's were the beauty of the 4WD comes in, launch it at 6000rpm. In a rolling race a stock GTR wouldn't be any faster than a mildly modified GTST.

Building a tough auto will NOT be cheap, I paid $2500 to get the 4 spd auto on my old Vl turbo 8 years ago. Sure you can go 3 spd but don't bother driving it any place out of the city.

OK blx what do you say (better not be bump)

$150 for 2 wheels no tyres.

I'll take 2 of them for $150 if anyone else wants to buy the other 2, there good for drag racing as a 16" tyre will flex more with low air pressure than a 17" will, anyone wanna go halvies?

Why wouldn't 320hp be achieveable at 12psi+ when standard they produce 250hp at around 7psi. A stock R33 makes roughly 130rwkw, if you mod it to 190rwkw thats a gain of 60kw or 80hp, now 250+80=330hp! Another factor to consider with FMIC is that they will probably have a richer A/F ratio than with the stock IC due to the denser air, so without a SAFC or computer change then no they probably won't be better, but they DO NOT cause lag unless it's a poorly built one with huge pipes that have nasty right angle bends, then maybe. While were on the discrepency's of Dyno's what about the accuracy of Drag strips, how do we know that your 13.4 104mph is correct? I've seen plenty of mid 13 sec passes and rarely do the mph go higher than 100-101, is there an altitude advantage in Perth compared to Melb or Sydney? But I guess you should be commended in your different approach to speed, afterall the quicker your engine can reach redline the faster you will go, so maybe we should all experiment with lighter pulleys etc... a higher than 4.11 diff ratio could also lower 1/4 times but I doubt many would want to do that.

I noticed that extra port doesn't actually go into the plumb back section of the BOV, it has it's own tunnel into the diaphram part, how does it circulate air?

Wow I must have missed that post "A FRONT MOUNT WILL ONLY HOLD ME BACK" good god man sit back and listen to what you said. The old turbo lag from extra intercooler pipes crap is an old wives tale, I never experienced any. The day I had my SAFC tuned along with other R33's my car produced 20-30rwkw more than the others and the only difference was that I had a FMIC the rest didn't, since that day some have fitted FMIC's and now make the same power as me, but I guess that just makes our cars slower now right?

I have also seen 200rwkw with the stock turbo using a PowerFC, with my SAFC I'm managing 188rwkw@12psi, the A/F ratio is only 11.8 too so a possible 190+ may be achievable.