r33gts4turbo

edited

the fuse is in the engine bay........... just changed my 2 days ago cos the low/high beam stopped working

96 MODEL STI doesnt have a TDO5......... maybe a vf22 or vf23 turbo. Damn i wish i had never sold my MYOO WRX lol.. best car i have ever owned

Hi, yes there is a little bit of slack on the cable and the throttle body rests on the screw stop. I do believe its an electrical sensor telling the computer something it shouldnt causing it to idle up (via the solonoid on the acc valve) Blind elk.... i will have a look at that this afternoon as that is something i havent checked thankyou.Can the tps be adjusted for the throttle closed position?I remember adjusting the tps for 0.5v at idle using one of the 2 plugs attached to the tps.So do i measure the other plug on the tps for the throttle closed measurement? oh ,the revs do come down between gears but not past 1200rpms thankyou

ok well today i got myself another multimeter and checked the charging voltage and its just over 13v at the battery and doesnt change when the car is revved. Now i measured the coolant temp sensor and it reads 22ohms when cold and around 3ohms when fully warmed up. I also tried starting the car with the coolant temp sensor unplugged (as an experiment)and it struggled to idle but once i plugged it back it it idled up to around 1300-1400 rpms when cold and then drops back to 1200rpms once the cars fully warmed up. i also checked the ignition timing too which was ok. So im really at a loss as to why the car is idling so high... i guess my next step is to replace the ecu because i cannot think of anything else it could be.

i have just warmed up the car and measured the voltage across the acc valve solonoid plug (brown plug) and it gives a reading of 15v at idle. The car is very heavy on fuel and the car smells rich even at idle.Even when the car is idling at 1200rpms i hear it (pop sound)but not loud but like a old carby car where it has been fully warmed up but the choke is still on if you know what i mean. So if the temp sensor is giving an incorrect reading .. this can cause the car to idle high/run rich? thankyou for your help much appreciated

hi thankyou for replying. yes the spring was in the acc valve and moving freely/nicely and seating correctly after i cleaned it. The ecu is a factory one but has a mines racing sticker on it.. So i should put a multimeter across the wires on the acc valve brown plug at idle? thankyou

Ok after hours of research and even more time spent under the bonnet im calling for help My cars idle is at around 1200-1300rpm once warmed up(was like it since i bought the car 3 months ago) r33 RB25DET motor Mods: exhaust filter fmic walbro pump and sard press reg stock bov Now the acc valve screw is wound almost all the way in(i cleaned the acc valve by the way).The throttle body "stop" screw is untouched .The tps has been adjusted to .5v for closed throttle.There are no air leaks so to speak. The cold start hose was blocked(once warmed up)to see if air is passing through the bi metallic thing(or is it the other way around??) and into the manifold but seems ok. Now,if i crimp the inlet hose which runs to the acc valve the car will stall.... so thats where the air is coming from.If i disconnect the brown plug (on the solonoid) on the acc valve the car stalls.Now if i adjust the acc idle screw so that it idles at 750rpm ..i then reconnect the brown plug and bang up goes the idleto 1200-1300rpms.For some reason the brown plug on the acc valve raises the rpm by around 500-600rpms (and even more when the aircon is switched on).Is this normal? any ideas or help would be much appreciated thanks

<br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Ive got a quick fix for that problem<br />To get rid of that annoying tapping sound everytime you turn the ignition on.<br />Take out the contol unit for the fan/aircon located above your stereo.There will be two plugs in the back of the unit.Now if your sitting in the drivers seat of your car looking at the unit .... the right plug is the plug you want.On this plug there will be about 17 wires,the red wire(maybe an orange stripe on it as well ...cant remember) furthest to the right is the one that sends power to the servo with the stripped gear.<br />Cut this wire and you will no longer have that annoying tapping sound.<br />If you want to pull the whole dash apart and replace the stripped gear then you have alot more time on your hands than me<br />this guide is for a r33 gtst<br />hope this helps

its the servo gear stripped for the fan/aircon