coparts41

I didn't worry about the difference in bolt diameter as 2mm is bugger all , they have been there for years now and never had any problems ,only have to trim the backing plate a little on the rears , done 4 sets now on different stageas and all the same ,same on the race car with 550 hp ,

Unsprung weight , I doubt if you will notice the difference , unless its a race car and you are looking for everything that you can get . get a set of bathroom scales and check them , at least you will get a rough idea . I made my own wheels for the Exa 13x 10 weighing 2.5 Kg, because I couldn`t bye anything . The only real difference between 16,17 ,18 etc is the larger the wheel the smaller the profile and the harsher the ride.

I have 25mm front and rear no probs

Hi Adam , the first thing to do is find out if it is a lean or rich condition that's been created.

in the c34 Prime as I have they use a common ground for the speakers , when I did mine I had to totally rewire the system to create independent speakers , maybe run some wires externally to see if it works before the rewire.

thanks , its easier to ask here than to stuff around for two hours looking ,

Anyone got or know where I can get a tow bar for a c34 , thanks

my baby

agree to disagree?

Well I have been building race cars for the last 40 odd years and have a little experience with exhaust systems , do you know how the gas flow goes down the pipe , doesn't go anywhere near the outside of the pipe but about 3/5 mm in, due to turbulence , crushed or mandrel for you guys unless you race the bloody thing wont have a slight bit of difference and I have proved it.

Well here is the progress , valve body arrived from MV automatics and we decided to do it ourselves . Used a mates hoist , changed the valve body , 12 ltrs new oil and 3 hours work and all done . It has changed the car dramatically from a slush box to a real nice feel on gear change , no delay slip or any nasty stuff , just real crisp change . Well worth the money . the end .

well , you know reading this forum and you would think that money grows on trees . we ( my son and myself) have just gone through the process of fitting a new system on the 31 3" crush bent system with just a muffler on the rear , would be a little loud for the street but it wont be so tuff and you could add one to quiet it down, The thing being this car produces 530Hp at the wheels and it doesn't make any dam difference if it is mandrel bent or not the gas still gets out. $400 for the tailor made system and it will last longer than you are going to have the car for anyway .

yep your right scotty if its a bushed turbo , still don't think that it is stem seals though as it would be doing it all the time and surely the 35`s are strong enough to take a spike , our 25 spiked to 35+ before we installed the 50mm wastegate , anyway a wet and dry comp test should show up any piston problems .

Is it a roller bearing turbo , if yes it could be a problem with oil flow to the turbo . Just finished my sons r31 gtsr with a rb26 running on E85 , had to change the Injectors , rail and fuel pump but ended up with 535Hp at the wheels , however the turbo was still smokey (brand new turbo) on the dyno and we had to install a restrictor into the oil delivery line as the turbo cannot handle the pressure or quantity of oil and leaks through the rear seal. Now this engine is running 20 PSI boost and will run 24psi quite comfortably when we change coil packs , Not saying this is the problem but something to look at.

didn`t realize they were stock , but I think you can still get them rebuilt but SG Leslie ( not sure ) but anyway why would you.

sounds good to me Scotty , Its actually for Adams silver 34 , not sure who is going to do the job , any recommendations ?. I`ll give him a ring and come back to you .but I would probably say yes at this stage , That reply was what they told adam too and hence the price hike.

Hi guys , just wonder if there is any one who has a spare valve body for a C34 S2 triptronic box in Melbourne , as MV auto`s want $400 deposit plus the price of the body which is way over the top. I only need it until I get the change over unit back from Adelaide. thanks.

why don't you just get the shocks rebuilt.

I don`t know what all the hoo ha is , just leave the front coil overs in , they are not going to worry anything , what do you put coilovers in for anyway , 1 stability 2 handling 3, ease of adjustment and 4 looks , why in the hell would you remove them if not stuffed , when you get the money repair or replace them , no big deal but its stupid to remove them when they are ok.

I`m with you Scotty , I keep on saying to my boys , Nissan spend millions of dollars developing these bloody things and people continually go out of there way to stuff them up. Check the viscous coupling and fan for cracks , might be there ,

whats your battery voltage, sounds like some problem there , system should run around 13.5 to 13.9 v , could be battery , alternator or just a slipping belt never the less there is a problem , are they white or yellowish .

check the cv joint as well .

Probably only the regulator doing its job , Is the fuel gauge reading right and not actually running empty ,just seems funny that it is perfect until you get to 1/4 tank thats all

40mm is ok as that is what I have , although depends on what camber you want and how often you rotate tyres as they will wear , you will probably end up with 1.3 degrees n.c on the front and maybe a little more on the rear .

I`m with you Reprieve , looks like s/p s /t 12v relay , does it have any numbers on it to identify contacts.