J.B.E

Oh yeah the other thing is when they went from R32 to R33 boxes the speedo sender changed aswell from cable type to electric

They changed from a push to pull type goin from R32 to R33, R33 gearboxes are the same besides the age and are basicly a GTR gearbox without the transfer case and so on for the 4WD system. They are also reportedly capable of handling around 550HP ok.

will do as I'm pretty sure he'd be keen to make and sell a few if it's worth his while.

Cool thanks for the help guys. I may now have the wiring sorted (hopefully) as a guy from a performance shop in NZ is doing the same conversion now and has made some sort of plugin loom conversion and may sell me 1 if all goes well with his new little invention. I'm goin to be using the RB25DET gearbox as I've got it already and it's stonger.

Hi, has anyone personnally installed a RB25DET motor into an R32 RB20DET skyline before. If you have can you plz tell me if i'm likely to run into any problems with anything eg: fitment wiring My car is a R32GTS-t I have a full RB25DET motor, wiring loom, computer, turbo, airflow meter and gearbox although turbo is being trashed as i have a bigger unit along with a few other bits and pieces that will all be sorted once I have the motor installed. Any help would be cool thanks.

makes sense steve thanks mate, and thanks mort.

If your running an electronic boost controller, it will control your boost only if theres power goin to it, otherwise your boost should run at standard pressure. For it to over boost you would hav to disconnect the hose goin into the actuator which will stop the actuator from workin at all, causing overboost. But dont do that as overboosting will cause damage. You can use either actuator coz it does'nt really matter, the only difference could be (as mentioned) 1 might have a a softer tention spring in it than the other causing it to run a lower minimim boost setting but if you hav a boost controller you can bleed off the air and put the boost bak up. The 1 on the right looks like the 1's on the R31's which i think hav a softer tention spring (not sure) and the 1 on the left looks like the 1's of the later model RB's. hope that helps

does any1 no about running two GTS-t pumps and this would go, the reason for asking is i've got a spare gts-t pump and was thinking bout running two, any1 enlighten me on how this would go

When your exhaust wheel breaks or shatters the shaft becomes unbalenced and causes the other end of the shaft to rattle a bit this could be what you'r hearing, i would'nt recomend driving it either coz as u sed warrior_350 it could be the other end of the turbo or a piece of crap in the turbo that could end up goin through your motor.

so how loud are these 044 pumps really, i mean could u hear them goin from the out side of the car, sum kind idea on how loud they are

Well i'm not to sure about exactly where in the rev range the extra power is claimed to be but i'm guessing that would be similar to the standard power band but last slightly longer through the rev range. they make the cams so they can run on the factory computer and factory valve train. So for $400 nz thats not to bad considering what people spend to get slight increases in power. An average exhaust system is around $800 here. :burnout:

If your ceramic turbo has blown, there should be nothing left of the turbine wheel and then there would be no need to do the waste gate thing u mentioned JOEL. The easyest way i rekon to tell is to unbolt your turbo down pipe and look inside your turbo where the turbine wheel should be, if theres nothing there then it's deffenitly crapped out.

I personaly dont see the point in havinin a oil air seperator if your only goint to run 1 of your hoses from your valve covers to the catch can, but yes VLRB20DET you just disconnect them from the plenum and the intake ducting and run them to your catch can, dont forget to plug the hole up that you've disconnected. Because on most R32 series valves covers the the connections are pointing in two different directions you could take them out and use the connections from a RB20DE which are just right angled connection and dont have the connector piece going between them you can point them in any direction you want, eg: to you catch can where ever you decide to put it. Hope that helped Soon as i get sum pictures from my camera to the comp i'll show you how i have mine.

awsum thanks guys

Can any one tell me the standard fuel pressure on a R32 GTS-t

a knock knock knock sound dont sound like your turbo going, and speaking from expenince coz i've shit 3 ceramic turbo's and you'll be lucky if you can hear them blow. But if you hav blown your turbo it must hav ingested a bit of crap from sumwhere to shatter the ceramic turbo.

could be as the ecu tends to throw the timing bak which does cause a slight power loss

when you put your car in diagnostic mode, as far as i know it's job is to report faults or faulty parts and not to tell you your car is pinging or knocking so either your cars sensor needs replacing or theres a fault in the connection somewhere.

If your looking for a little more power for little money Kelford camtech in NZ hav a pair of cams that will run on the stock computer and claim to give up to 25% increase ova standard which also might help with your top end power, there around $400 NZ

Busky2k is sorta right, the reason for installing a oil air seperator especially on race or high boost application cars is cause the oil that ends up being recycled back into the engine goes down and gets burnt with the gas, with it mixing with your gas it lowers the octain rating which causes detonation. so by installing 1 of these you will lessen the chance of detonation and run safer higher boost levels especially if you do hav blow by problems. So the only performance gains i could see would be very minimal.

not sure how much the knock sensors are in Aus but i got my sensors from a friend that works at an auto parts store. They are located beneath your intake manifold there are two of them 1 is located between the second and third runner of your intake manifold (u should be able to see it if u stand where your battery is and look between the 1'st and 2'nd runner), the second is located between the 4th and 5th runners. They have whiteish plugs on them, my sensors are green i dont know if they are all green or what, but both sets that i have had were green. Hope that helps.

you could run your cars o2 sensor test as well to monitor your cars fuel ratio's

it sounds like sum sort of fuel prob or it could just be the knock sensors making the computer throw your timing right back, but for it to loose power at the same amount (5500rpm) sounds like it's starving or sumthin. Could it be your fuel pump is in correctly wired, if thats ok could also be your fuel pressure regulator or hose. I'd also check your spark plugs as this can cause your car to loose power from the gap being to wide. if the fuel pressure regulator hose has a hole or a split in it it will cause it to run lean during boost

Does it seem to have more power only in the morning or does it vary

I also had the same problem with the knock sensor code 34 cumming up, firstly i checked all the plugs on the knock sensors to see if they were just loose, i found they seemed ok, so for a while i just ignored it until i happen to wind the boost up and give it heaps which resulted in it detonating. The car missed like crap and the result was i shit 1 of the spark plugs, luckily there was no futher damage, so i replaced all the spark plugs and both knock sensors, I tried running the ecu in diagnostic mode again after the new sensors were put in and the code no longer came up. So u were sayin u hav no problems yet, well would u rather be safe than sorry by spending a lil money on a new pair of sensors. I'm only speaking from my own experience and am not a no it all, i'll try help if i can but dont know everything