Decs31

and we will be more than happy to work with you should you decide on a combo that suits your needs.

To be clear... We were asked by the customer for advise on a 25/30 build. 450kw on pump fuel. weekender/strip use. Thats it. No other specifics were given and no budget was set. We gave a list of the parts we felt would be the ducks guts and offered to prepare a quote on those. This is the result. We will not advise the use of sub par cheap parts, nor do we like to cut corners. The quote can be taken on a part by part basis if you like. Pick and choose as you see fit (within reason). We also offered a 10% discount if he wants to go ahead with an order. Given the very low margins in performance parts we feel that is very generous. Thats well over $2k discount. For serious customers we will go well out of our way to work with you and help you get the bits you want at a price that suits all involved. We are here to help. We aren't greedy, but we do like to see things done well and not skimped on. The thought of building a 3.2L motor then wacking on a "N1 oil pump" and a s/h z32 afm simply makes me cringe.

to save some confusion... settle time of 3sec, ramp time of 7. both runs. increasing either of those times would mess with the results but they were both done the same. simon has swapped to a 4.11 from a 4.35 diff but the dyno was set accordingly so it shouldn't mess with it at all. i didn't touch the tune for the gtx. i can see a few spots i'd like to tweak but this was just a quick run up. I had no time to mess with it. the one thing i did note was that i had to turn up the boost controler a touch to get the boost to the same point again.

it just makes things a bit more consistent. if you turn off all corrections, the car will make a minimally lower power figure but as it is displaying raw load on the hubs the numbers do drop slightly as after a few runs you develop a bit of heat soak in the engine bay. the temp probe picks this up and makes small adjustments to the numbers to keep everything more equal. it makes it easier to see if its what you just changed in the map that changed the power/torque or just the heat soak dropping it. its just a tuning aid. i've said this a thousand times but numbers are numbers. in my experience hubs and rollers are very close, if anything mainlines read noticeably lower. who cares. its the quality of tune and how it drives that matters. to be on topic a stock rb25 will take a lot, but it has to be treated with respect. good maintenance, safe tune, no limiter bashing and minimal rpm to achieve your goal. reving it to 8k will kill it quick smart.

i bet they'd find that if they dropped the boost and tuned it accordingly, the loss would not be dramatic.

yes your correct becuase thats exactly what it did..... the car in question was initially tuned on this dyno by amm using those exact corrections so i gave simon that graph today purely as a direct comparison to how it was before. the result be a 40odd kw increase over the previous setup. i had no real choice there. i did todays whole retune using more "roller correct" corrections and in actual fact it produced 357kw. i dont think that turbo is gonna do too much more and i had no interest in trying. the result was great as it was. at the end of the day, its a tuning aid and a VERY good one! the 397 was merely a reperesentation of todays gain.

if you disconnect the wire where it runs into the relay and also from the pump (like you have) then switch it on, does the fuse blow? if not then the short is in the wire from the relay to the pump. im pretty sure you've worked out thats the issue anyway. i suspect your gonna have to pretty well replace that wire entirely. if you get a wire hot enough like you probably did, you can melt the insulation off it pretty much all the way along it without too much effort. therefore it can have a million shorts all along its length. im not an expert on the basic layout of an r32 but i'd asume that under the drivers kick panel there will be a large plug that the loom to the rear of the car connects to. if so disconnect it and see if the pumps wire has shorts there. at least it will determine if the short is before or after the plug. if its after (closer to the plump) it will be far less of a pain in the arse to replace.

I am advertising this car on behalf of one of my customers. Located in Mt Barker, SA. Its a black 1993 R33 Skyline. RB25DET S1 57,000 km Manual FMIC Power FC 3" Exhaust 18" Rims The bad bits... Asking $13,500. Contact the owner, Nick 0431422095 Or myself (its stored at my workshop), Declan 0421878818 Cheers, Declan.