Decs31

and we will be more than happy to work with you should you decide on a combo that suits your needs.

To be clear... We were asked by the customer for advise on a 25/30 build. 450kw on pump fuel. weekender/strip use. Thats it. No other specifics were given and no budget was set. We gave a list of the parts we felt would be the ducks guts and offered to prepare a quote on those. This is the result. We will not advise the use of sub par cheap parts, nor do we like to cut corners. The quote can be taken on a part by part basis if you like. Pick and choose as you see fit (within reason). We also offered a 10% discount if he wants to go ahead with an order. Given the very low margins in performance parts we feel that is very generous. Thats well over $2k discount. For serious customers we will go well out of our way to work with you and help you get the bits you want at a price that suits all involved. We are here to help. We aren't greedy, but we do like to see things done well and not skimped on. The thought of building a 3.2L motor then wacking on a "N1 oil pump" and a s/h z32 afm simply makes me cringe.

to save some confusion... settle time of 3sec, ramp time of 7. both runs. increasing either of those times would mess with the results but they were both done the same. simon has swapped to a 4.11 from a 4.35 diff but the dyno was set accordingly so it shouldn't mess with it at all. i didn't touch the tune for the gtx. i can see a few spots i'd like to tweak but this was just a quick run up. I had no time to mess with it. the one thing i did note was that i had to turn up the boost controler a touch to get the boost to the same point again.

it just makes things a bit more consistent. if you turn off all corrections, the car will make a minimally lower power figure but as it is displaying raw load on the hubs the numbers do drop slightly as after a few runs you develop a bit of heat soak in the engine bay. the temp probe picks this up and makes small adjustments to the numbers to keep everything more equal. it makes it easier to see if its what you just changed in the map that changed the power/torque or just the heat soak dropping it. its just a tuning aid. i've said this a thousand times but numbers are numbers. in my experience hubs and rollers are very close, if anything mainlines read noticeably lower. who cares. its the quality of tune and how it drives that matters. to be on topic a stock rb25 will take a lot, but it has to be treated with respect. good maintenance, safe tune, no limiter bashing and minimal rpm to achieve your goal. reving it to 8k will kill it quick smart.