Roy

Great work...do the before and after graphs use the same ramp rates etc as the power curve with the cams seems to do a bit of darting around at the start and plays catch up to the std cam curve. Not doubting the result, as the cams do seem to make comfortably more grunt, just trying to understand if the cams actually allow comfortably more grunt at 3,000 & 3,500rpm which seems real surprising

I am in the final stage of organising a group buy on Hankook Ventus TD Z221 in 295/30/18 and 255/40/17s. Unless the group buy sells out quick then I doubt they will be ready before end of June

Well I am waiting to hear back on some group buy pricing of the Hankooks in 255/40/17s and 295/30/18s. Hopefully the pricing will mean they are affordable.

Nice work...just convinced me to give my Poncams a nudge Can you give us the run down. With the cams did the thing take more timing, more boost, simply make more power. Were the cams at 0-0??? LOL so many questions. 350rpm is a huge difference!

So, does that mean you have seen someone leave everything else the same except change to TB and realise a change for better/worse or no change? I understand people make perfectly good power with a certain TB. The reason I am considering it is the TB is obviously sized for a certain lbs/min of air. When you go from 110rwkws to 310rwkws I dont think its out of line to wonder what affect that has on pressure drop through the throttle body....or more to my thinking what its doing with regards to the velocity of air through it and in turn the pressure drop you have when it goes into the larger plenum and cylinder filling

Wow, Mexico.

Interesting, that calculator suggests 72mm when I enter my engine variables. I also run a plazmaman plenum and interested in trialling the throttle body. Hoping they will do me a return policy on one in case the performance doesn't match their asking price

I think the RB20 brigade need to pass the hat around and get the funds together to get this tuned. I am mega keen to see how this goes.

Nothing was changed that would make a difference. It blew out the turbo to mani gasket mid tuning so that had to be replaced. The areas of concern still need to be looked at but with tuner busy before he goes on holidays we had to focus on the tuning and fiddly bits. So when I get it back this weekend I am going to redo all the piping with Wiggins clamps as once the undertrays and brake ducts etc go back on buggered if I will ever be able to get to a blown cooler hose

255/40/17 Hankook Z221 - $420 Federal FZ201 - $350 + $50 freight to Melbourne

My understanding the HKS Manifold is T3 flange. The R32/33 GTST/GTR all accept the same kits. The difference is in the suitability to the master cylinder your car runs. If you run an R32 GTSt BMC or even worse an R33 BMC you may find that with a racey pad the brakes are a little too bitey and you may want to uprade to a larger BMC from an R33 GTR to drop the brake line pressure for the same pedal effort

The question is on what grounds have you decided you want/need a brake upgrade? If its performance then what is the current problem you are experiencing. If its part fashion/aesthetics (not having a shit, its part of the reason why I like big brakes) then its hard to go past the bracket and rotor upgrade with some nice performance street pads.

The FZ201s are $600 cheaper a set then the AO50s in my size. That just about makes my decision for me

Pretty stoked to crack 300rwkws with a std RB20

Will post up a graph in a few days but looks like when I head to PI in 3 weeks it will be with 306rwkws of TD06-20G powah! Needs 23psi and United E85 to make that power. But still std cams, 6boost exhaust manifold and Plazmaman inlet with std sized throttle body and R34 GTR intercooler. So the only real change has been the corn syrup and leaning on the tune and turbo some more with extra 4psi. Need to really go over the cooling systems before the day and make sure that the oil cooler gets its shrouds back and hook back up my data logger to ensure that I understand what the temps are doing.

Good work on the PS pump. I have been keeping an eye out for an R33 or R34 pump but have not been able to find a cheap one

Any news on the cams and Vipec?

I have not run my data logger in years and lost all the data I did have with an old laptop. Its all getting re-wired over the next few weekends and will see what its doing. I am tempted to drop the sump and throw a ~2mm shim in the oil pump. Going to drop the rev limit to around 6,800-7,000rpm so that will hopefully keep it together

Yeh, but I would hate for it to die because oil pressure was getting a bit lazy due to wear and tear. I am going to have a look and see if i can squeeze some shims in there with the sump off it

It is sad. The UK has a whole industry around club motorsport and enthusiasts and they dont close down tracks to build housing developments and their population is 3 times Australias and their land mass barely NSW. Yeh , no other land available

So these gears work ok on a std sized RB20 crank. I am in two minds of whether I should just throw a washer in my current oil pump or grab some gears and shim it up and put higher spring in it whilst it is off the car. But not touching engine so cant do anything about the std RB20 crank. We are talking band aids here for taking a std wrecker engine to power and boost levels even I am not comfortable with

The 25G wheel is 15% bigger than the 20G wheel, so with the little 69.7 mm stroke of the RB20 and 8.5:1 compression, like i posted above I dont see the RB20 doing a bang up job of getting the most out of the T67. That's why I grabbed the 73HTA wheel, it is only 7% bigger but is lighter so stands a chance of spooling as well, if not better than the 20G wheel. But for now I have decided I am going to shelve the plans for the 73 HTA and see if the lil std motor can handle the corn syrup and the power it makes with the 20G for a few track days. I figure 306rwkws is a decent enough step from the power I was previously running and now getting into the area where I am less confident about how well a std engine with at least 60,000kms (i have put those 60,000kms on the wrecker engine) will do with that sort of grunt, boost and revs

That Cusco car is an abomination...here is to hoping that good looking cars prevail over cars done by aerodynamicists who are doing finger paintings of race cars with their 5yr olds

Do you mean triple core or triple pass? Will check the part number for you and get back to you. Hopefully that will tell you what you need to know