-
Posts
23,253 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
12 -
Feedback
100%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Everything posted by Roy
-
Built 26, Best Single/mani Combo For Around 370Kws ?
Roy replied to bri73y's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Oh god no. You did not just type that! Man, I know my typing is often full of typos and occasional poor grammar/english but i pray I get ribbed on a car forum and correct it before my boss or customer reads it and sacks me for not being able to spell better than his 10yr old Just a gentle ribbing as I do see western civilisation going down this path But back on topic....is a second hand turbo an option? If so what about the Apexi RX6 turbos. You see them from time to time and they are meant to be very good things with regards to response and torque, don't quite match the T67 but give a pretty meaty power curve. Also, have you already grabbed the R34? They are rather heavy for a rwd car and quite expensive. If budget and speed are more of a concern than styling I think a cheap R33 shell would be the way to go as they weigh about the same as an R32 (by the time you have considered gearbox/brakes weights etc but at least a full fuel load lighter then an R34 GTT) -
Built 26, Best Single/mani Combo For Around 370Kws ?
Roy replied to bri73y's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
They're spelling is going to improve because their going to back to school on Wensday nights and will get some lessons than come back and post on the forum, provided the whether is ok -
Built 26, Best Single/mani Combo For Around 370Kws ?
Roy replied to bri73y's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
That is a huge unknown. May be a good thing but I have not read of a single result of their billet wheels. As others have said. Will be interesting. If you get the car tuned in NSW/WA you will gain response and power. Get it tuned in Vic you will lose response and make a handful more kws....I got no explanation for the vast differences people experience with cams other then it must be a lot to do with cams gears and how tuners tune?!?!?! -
Well, I often go back and watch old GPs in my down time and I think you all have your nostalgia shades on. The last two seaons racing has been the most entertaining in years, and despite Sebs dominance the racing was still close between the guys of near equal speed, just that the faster cars out of position could recover. Don't change a thing FIA...its about as good as it gets at the moment with regards to competition, entertainment and good wheel to wheel racing
-
I dont mind the added dimension of the tyre management. The other argument misses the point that F1 used to be about conserving cars to and that drivers had input into how fast the car was over a race distance by knowing when to conserve and when to go flat out. F1 cars were never really able to be driven flat out...but with some rule changes over the past few years they are so reliable that drivers coudl drive flat out and you may as well as skipped the WDC as without the engineers and budget etc mean that he who spent the biggest won. So I am not against the current rules for the reasons you raise. I recongnise them but I think they balance is about right. If nothing else for the time being and last season it introduced something new to F1 that I am enjoying at present. Perhaps you are right that in a year or two they should go back to single lap qualifying and durable tyres. If you missed the window in quali you have a car that ,ay be fast and consistant to race...but we have had that and with aero etc there was very little racing....as even cars that were 2-3 seconds slower could routinely ruin the fastest cars getting up to one another. Its all a balancing act and I am happy enough at present that the tyres performance windows means that cars are having different performances at different circuits in different conditions
-
If you have a look into it you will see that different states have different requirements. In VIC no RB25/30 will ever be legal unless you undergo full emissions testing. If you throw an RB25 in then you can get it engineered at a cost....and I find it a bit silly to say don't worry about changing engine numbers on rego papers etc and just throw another engine in. He is in Melb and if you get pulled over you are in for a nice expensive and time consuming process of clearing the defects through engineering the vehicle. The engineering cost plays a small part of the reason I still run an RB20. if I get pulled over for some of the gear I have strapped to my engine then I can get it back to std using cheap std parts and some of my own time. If I go to other engine type then on top of the engine cost I should get it engineered which means not only are they interested in the engine and emissions gear, but ride heights, wheels, brakes, seats, etc etc. So main difference is driving around with gear I run the risk of bumping into police that care. If I mod it then to change engine numbers on paperwork I am introducing an inspection of the car and engine numbers etc. I recently had my Sierra given the once over by Vic Roads and there is no way on earth I would welcome that attention to my R32 (so that is my experience with Vic Roads and modded cars) Each state is different....from what I see and understand of other states SA and QLD are the most practical in their approach
-
LOL... attack the content of the post not the poster This thread used to be full of interesting technical discussion and debate over results etc. Seems its all been done to death so these days threads are just waffle and attacks...to which my sometimes participation was pointed out to me over the weekend when I met some people at an event.
-
Can't agree you have any chance that you can get 300rwkws RB25 setup in in R32 for 6k!!!! Like any post , its all the opinion of the poster and you obviously say what you say because its your belief....but NO WAY As cheap a budget as I could DIY (Damage it yourself): - RB25 : $1500 - 300kw capable turbo: $1500 - ECU, injectors and tune : $2000 (depending on ECU you chose the cost will float based on need for AFM or not) - So that leaves 1k for labour, fluids, timing belt, water pumps, tensioner/idler bearings. Oil lines, water lines, dump pipe, cooler pipe changes. Wiring changes to R32 loom. Re-gassing aircon That's being conservative with numbers and doing all labour yourself. You have a cooked RB20 you could maybe get a few dollars for...but then you have an 300rwks RB25 for maybe around 8k that will most likely fry the std RB20 gearbox as that is most peoples experiences. Anyway, I think people need to chill out...the same old people are always jumping down everyone's throats like it was their money being spent. People ask for advice, it gets offered, often more then bad (including by me) than good but I dont get the attacks in the Forced Induction forum these days
-
I am real interested to see how the build goes. I have the rods, pistons, cranks, oil pumps, water pumps, cams and valve springs etc all for the RB24 using Tomei 82mm pistons. Interested to know what pistons you are using for that price, mine cost almost 4 times as much If they do the job well then for about 3k it seems they would be able to build my engine
-
Those Neovas are impressive. Would love to see a back to back test with RE55s [hint, hint]
-
And the old layout seems more of an adventure. Gutted it changed before I got there Webber has always gone well up against Vettel in Spain. Here is to hoping he can edge Vettel and others out and start a nice little patch of victories and podiums. I am tipping RBR this weekend to be strong along with Lotus...McLaren will struggle again is my tip
-
2012 Nsw Hillclimb Champs Q&a + Results
Roy replied to R32 Stuart's topic in Motorsport Discussion & Builds
Man, I would have binned it each time you had a woopsie. That place scares me. Good work on the results and vids -
Yep...I was kacking myself. What mods do you run at the moment? Based on your engine build list I am guessing you have I/C, filter exhaust, ebc etc? Since you are in Vic I would speak to the likes of EKW and get a quote for a short motor. I paid $600 for mine. I am guessing your remove and replace is a little too cheap. I would expect up around are up for around $1500-2000 for remove and replacing your engine, this I expect would include AC re-gassing, machining fly wheel, changing water pump, timing belt, idler bearings etc. Could be cheaper but do your homework. From there I would consider some GTR injectors that have been flow tested, a Z32 AFM, a Power Fc/Nistune (PFc hard to find but all RB20 owners are tight asess and don't want to pay money for ECUs so can get them for $1000-1200) I would speak to various hi-flow turbo shops like Hypergear, Billet, GCG, ATP and speak to them and your tuner about the power you are after and the response you are chasing. This will all bolt on to std manifold with some minor changes to dump and inlet etc. http://www.billetturbochargers.com/Turbo_rebuilds_and_hiflows.ews http://www.atpturbo.com.au/ http://www.digi-hardware.com/rb25t3hiflow.html http://gcg.com.au/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=34&Itemid=101&TreeId=162 I think for less money you can end up with more power with as good or acceptable response by going std engine with a well spec'd hi-flow turbo, or used HKS 2530. But, don't take my word for it ask around and get some quotes from other workshops that friends have used. Relying on referrals from forums is fought with danger as you cant really say anything bad about workshops.....NOT that I am hinting CREATD are anything but a credible shop but that is just one opinion and option. Hell, speak to another workshop and you may find a customer has just removed an engine and turbo setup due to a major upgrade that needs a new home. Point is do your own homework, ask all the right questions and just be careful it is clear to you what you are after so you can communicate that to a workshop. I think you are about to spend 6k on an engine that only makes 190-200rwkws that may not do what you are after
-
Suggestions For 2Nd Hand Caliper Checkup
Roy replied to sydking's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Its pretty easy. Just remove the nipples and buy replacements ones. Remove the rubber from around the pistons, there are some steel clips around them as well but if you remove it all slowly you wont damage anything. If the seals around the pistons crumble as you do it then it means they are shagged and need replacing. If they dont then they are good to go back in. Get some compressed air and carefully blow air into the bleed nipples. Be careful how you hold the caliper as you dont want the pistons to fly out and crush fingers. I normally pack the centre of the caliper with rages and then wrap a rag around the caliper to stop fluid and garbage blowing everywhere. Pull the pistons out....check them for corrosion etc. Inspect the seals and re-assemble with PBR brake oil or just use liberal amounts of brake fluid. Its all very basic stuff....I imagine there are some decent on line tutorials rather then rely on my 30 second sound byte which I have tried to type as quickly as possible -
Mate, stop them ASAP! Seriously. You are spending thousands on an engine to only put a 200rwkws turbo on. They are ok as a cheap get out of jail turbo that close to bolt on....but they dont perform. I have seen R33 turbos on RB20s that offer barely an improvement at 4,000rpm compared to my big, laggy truck, err I mean Trust turbo. Get a healthy RB20 motor put in and get a 2530 Kai or similar 350-400hp turbo put on. You will make 30-40rwkws more then you will with the RB23 and will be far cheaper to boot. I am about to put a new billet turbo on my car and run E85 which will see the figure be somewhere between 290-320rwkws...all on a std motor which I expect it will be fine with. At 230rwkws a std motor will alst forever and for less then 4k you can have a motor, tunable ECU, good turbo upgrade etc
-
I have a wrecker RB20 motor in my car running a TD06-20G. I have run it for 60,000kms and the last 7 years at generally 18-22psi and 235-275rwkws. Most of the kms are going to/from the track and actually driving it on the track. My take is that the RB20 is soooo over engineered in std spec that even a high km wrecker motor will be a good thing if you give it a wise going over when you install it. When you start leaning on them you need to make sure your tune and fluids are up to it and you will be fine with a wrecker motor. I am in the position that in the next few weeks I am going to spray my engine bay so on the weekend I went to a motorkhana and ran a 9,300rpm rev limit and 9,600rpm rev limit.. It sounded wild, and span up the tyres like a champion with plenty of limiter bashing. All whilst making about 260rwkws. I was half hoping the engine would pop so when it comes out that I could put it back into a freshly sprayed engine bay with all my RB24 bits...but its still running 100% reliable and drove me to work yesterday morning! Teh below pics is from drifting a bend and section of straight blazing 3rd gear on the 9,600rpm limiter before braking to stop in the finishing gate. The site of smoke behind me was hilarious....a std motor can take almost anything you can sensibly throw at it. The problem is it wont be responsive and have to give it a hard time; which incidentally they seem to like. So my strongest advise is buy a short wrecker engine with warranty and get it back on the road and just have fun blasting around in it. After this weekend I am more convinced than ever that if you arent worried about being the fastest, just having the most fun...then rape the RB20 with close to impunity Your money is far better spent on a nice turbo upgrade to a wrecker RB20
-
Mate, was good to have someone canning on with on Sunday. Was relaxing to kick back , drink beer..eat pork expertly prepared with love and affection by someone far more attentive then either of us. We almost got through $80 worth of meet Oh, and I LOVE this picture. 9,600rpm limiter action on the Mini Wang....I cant believe how strong the RB20s are
-
Who is doing the cage? I am now unemployed so I have LOADS of time so would be stoked to throw time at the lil GTSt
-
A Boy's Love For His Rb20
Roy replied to Roy's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Just R33 GTR 2 pot Brembos with std issue 300mm rotor. I run the same pad compound front to rear. May have to throw on my spare F40 setup whilst I sort this rotor issue. A little bit gutted that some random thing has happened but oh well...f**king cars -
Its 2010 again when after Silverstone there was talk that Webber was off to Ferrari. I doubt it but would be a cool way to finish up your F1 career http://www.planetf1.com/driver/18227/7719342/-Webber-to-Ferrari-as-Perez-stop-gap-
-
A Boy's Love For His Rb20
Roy replied to Roy's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Stoked to have my car back ... but the plans to throw the new turbo on and go for a tune is on hold as I have a problem with the brakes which have destroyed near new rotors. So looks like I need a new pair of rotors which is going to set me back 1K so install and tune will have to wait a few weeks -
Gizzmo Shift Light & Launch Control
Roy replied to Roy's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Seats still for sale. Making another attempt to get rid of some bits I have laying around. -
They are a competitor to the 458. They look ok in the flesh, sound a bit muted i just came from the EPA but they go like stink in a straight line. So they are definitely a competitor for the 458 and not a replacement for the gorgeous, loud and full of character F1
-
Rinadeena looks like an amazing stage...absolutely hammering! Suspension looks planted. OK, time to start flogging your spec Penskes to the rest of us