Roy

Yeh, but if I am spending that much money on an exhaust I dont want it to cost me a single bloody kw. I only make 250 odd I have some prices for some thing guage stainless mufflers and pieces and if I cant get a solid answer on this exhaust will be going twin 2.5" with a 4" dump with wastegate plumb back in. I currently lose around 6-7% of my power when I plumb the gate back in so need to improve over the HKS Hyper i currently run

I am screwed. Prospect of either buying it or just using the F1 website for live timing

Yeh a few people have asked and i posted a reminder question in his section before posting here. You would think its an easy thing to check which suggests to me maybe its only a 76-80mm ID muffler

So what would the power difference be between E85, E70 and say E40?

Sorry to be that guy throwing a spanner in the works. But 8L GTR sump modded for rwd?

I still cant get over how your 210rwkws lives with cars with 60-100rwkws more then you!

Looking at a Tomei Extreme Ti cat back exhaust system but want to confirm what the ID of the rear muffler is. Has anybody actually seen one or own one...measured one? I understand the tube diameter is 89.1mm OD, just want to make sure the muffler does not drop in diameter to 3" etc

You would smash Petra before Tamara, but meh. Like it really matters.

Fark I hope he eats armco this weekend! BIG TIME

A load of the cheap intercoolers work perfectly fine. If you can borrow someones multimeter that has an RTD and slip it in under the solicon join before the throttle body and just see what the temperature is doing between dyno pulls...ditto if you can get some cheap mechanical boost gauges and measure out of the turbo and post intercooler.

Get my email Mark? I need some bits for an upcoming trip.

Pump bottles are about $4.50 a hit these days. Nothing but the best for my car!

An R33 GTS25T needs to run NA rear brakes if it wants to run drag radials on a 15" wheel. So unless its a fancy 15" wheel with good brake clearance I think you will struggle

Cheers. Engine bay needs work as I have never cleaned it up properly after the fire. Plus loads of other small jobs where I just dont have the time as I am always away with work. Like ripping the dash apart on the drive up to Sydney over Xmas because my phone charger stopped working. So I cracked the shits and ripped out the centre console Farking old cars...if you try to keep them tidy it never ends

Dont waste your money. Just hang out at the St Kilda and take what comes your way

Yeh, my tunes are not that line ball so when United have 100 I go to my 100 tune and just run 98 on the street. But when I go to the track I make sure I am running 100. Keep in mind 8 out of 10 drives I dont hit more then 4-6psi as I drive to attract as little attention as possible

So pumped. Kimi and Romain have some extra mollah thanks to Microsoft coming on board at Lotus!

There are loads of options if you want 2pce. If you want single piece then a little more limited. About the cheapest I could find was a modified Mercedes ML rotor that was 340-343mm, but needed some machining to suit a Nissan. All up it was only going to be about $450 pair. That is the only generic option you have. If you want to go 355mm then there are loads of opptions but the suitability of the Sumitomo caliper is questionable

I drive 320kms to / from site every week + daily drive of about 30kms. I dont want to be paying for E85 and trying to source it. Hell, I may go a 91 tune

Well, I suppose I have Datalogit so will just buy 200L drums of E85 and run straight E85 at the circuit and throw 98 tune back in for getting around town. Pain in the ass, but everyone else is doing it so the lap times don't stack up without it The cars running it just have so much extra grunt for free, its not a level playing field running a full weight RB20 on 98 Nobody has said anything here but United have 100 back. My car makes an easy 10-15rwkws more with it so tempted to run a 50:50 with 100 United / E85 to try and get some mileage out of the 200L of E85.

Car isnt even in the same state as me at present. All is ready to go, just need to get my car back as its currently getting some fabrication work done. I hope its going to be a bit of a weapon at Sandown in late April. Will be on E85 with the whatever proves the best performer. If its the billet then hopefully makes power at 26-28psi. On EVOs they seem to love the higher pressure ratios so the lil 20 will be earning her keep. Would be nice to make 320rwkws with the 73HTA or 250-260rwkws with the 18G

Do we have a ruling on those cheap tyres of tyre rack yet. The Ventus Z214?

Thanks people!

The below picture isnt a perfect example as the spreadsheet is the combination of my car on two different dynos and two different tuners. The dynos read about the same, if anything the dyno that produced the 8cm result read a little lower then the 10cm dyno. The tuner that did the 10cm tune was not as good a tuner as my current tuner. So that obscures the result. But even so, I think it paints the correct picture as to what happens when you throw too big an exhaust housing on a car. Unless your car is choking on its exhaust gases, going to a larger A/R housing is a pretty risky way of trying to get more power. Especially with a turo mounted well away from the head. The exhaust gas would not have the same amount of energy after its gone through piping and cat/mufflers etc If you want more power look to try and get your inlet temps as low as possible, back pressure from exhaust as low as possible, pressure drop in inlet as low as possible etc. Then have a look at your

Say no to street races! Singapore is a mega expensive city compared to Malaysia...which is a better GP. Cheaper, more fun to holiday...and way better to spectate.