Roy

Why does it look like it would have boost control issues? Here is one of their pics and a pic of my Greddy/Trust TD06 manifold that hlds boost like a champion, better then the 6boost that replaced it. So cant see the issue the rest of you all are vs And I dont mean to rag on 6boost, so far mine has been a durable thing and overall happy with it. But has anyone taken their turbo off after some running? Have they noted that the collector splits open in the ID due to temperature expansion. The welds are not full pen and the join seems to propogate open. So i question will the split actually propogate out to crack the weld? If others look the same then I wont worry as you very rarely hear of problems with 6boost manifolds. The 6boost manifolds seen a little sensitive to the distance from the wastegate is mounted from the collector. Coomon knowledge these days on where to mount the wastegate. So not an issue. But plenty of people had loads of problems at first trying to get the 6boost manifolds to not get massive boost creep, even with various springs. My 6boost / Turbosmart setup has an 8psi spring in it but min boost is around 15psi. Fine with me as I want to run 20psi. My Greddy gate had an 8psi spring and guess what, with no boost control the turbo ran 8psi. Now people have it worked out. You can guesstimate what spring, gate lcoation will give you the coost control you need. The longer length wastegate pipes are typical of the Japanese manifolds, and the angle seems very similar so expect (thats no guarantee, but an educated guess) it to be fine with regards to holding boost.

Well plenty to watch and root for this year. Grosjen at Renault. Senna in Williams. Disco Dan at STR. Petrov at Caterham and of course Webz be VeTool. As long as Hackilton eats armco and carbon fibre as much as he gags on cock 2012 will be a great year

And people insist the std manifold is a good thing and doesnt hold back performance No sin to be running the std manifold as it makes so much sense in many ways...but it does limit the performance you are going to get. I hope my new turbo with a billet wheel doesnt trend the same way the GTX turbos are going with regards to response. They do flow better at higher pressure ratios...but, but yeh...at what cost to response. Still a good result for 90 ULP too!

I know some are happy to see the back of Trulli...but this is a BS move. They gave the guy a contract and just gave it away to a guy that has not even tested for the team and nobody even knows if he has the pace of Trulli or technical feedback Dont get me wrong though, I love the fact that Petrov has got a steer...but pretty piss poor form of the team I really want to get behind...but, at least my mad Russian has a seat in 2012...even if it is from a bonehead cash driven decision

I love how everybody makes out that the Nissan brand is so immaculate. Like it enjoys the customers that Mercedes does Nissan is cheapsville wanker performance on the whole. So many punks drive Nissans...I would rather bogans than this bunch No disrespect to people reading that happen to look liek the above...I am just old and out of touch with the times

Can you FAST an engine number to find out what car it was in?

RB20s loves the revs, this is 8,800rpm limiter with std cams And the engine is out of an unloved 89 Laurel or something and been in my car for 60,000kms of thrashing

Was there reasoning behind why they didnt run the diffuser all the way to the side, rear spats that are beind the wheels. Amazing fabrication...some goods craftsman out there!

First things first...keep it simple and replace the coil packs with some new ones. The miss coming and going is the coil packs. Very common, mine did it for about 2 years until I got sick of the random nature of it and threw in new Splitfires. RB20s take the same coil packs as RB26 so shop around for whatever new replacement ones you can find. Maybe these http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/297703-yellow-jackets-coil-packs-best-price-world-wide/ Throw some new spark plugs whilst you are at it. Gap them down to 0.8mm. Then at least you will have a decent baseline. Next time you get a miss just remove the plug from the back of each coil pack whilst the engine is idling. If the miss gets worse its not that cylinder. If the miss stays the same with a particular plug removed then you know thats the offending cylinder. As for the smoke. Are you using oil? Do you run a catch can setup and is the factory PCV valve still plumbed into the rocker cover and turbo inlet? Is it smokey at idle or with a quick punch of the accelerator to 2k or so? Or is it only after load/boost and lift off? Also, do you run a boost gauge and do you know the boost its running? Have you pulled the kick panel off to see if the ECU has any stickers and things on it or other signs it has been tampered with...if so by who? I suggest you get a mechanic you trust to look at it if you cant diagnose bits yourself. Last thing you want to do is put an RB25 or another engine in it and find you have the exact same problem because you are re-suign shitty old coil packs that overheat and short out and the same R34 turbo that is shagged.....oops, nothing wrong with the old engine I just paid good money to remove Check the basics....Nissan enginers are just fancy Datsuns, they make noise, bits fall of them...but with bacically std power they take a lot of abuse...so usually all the bolt ons that age and fail...not the engine. USUALLY

But bringing people back to reality for a second! Its a 335rwkws std RB25 with a bolt on turbo! That is mega. Perhaps a gate, manifold or other combination may be a tad punchier, but show me a single bolt on turbo that will match this setup???? I haven't seen any? Would be pretty mint, stock looking setup if his pipes weren't so sex when you open the bonnet.

Not taking away from the results for a second. For a bolt in internal gate setup its brilliant and un heard of power and response 5 years ago. But have to say I am a bit disappointed its not making 200rwkws until around 4,300rpm which is only 200rpm better then my RB20 with a TD06-20G on 98. I am really looking for a 330-350rwkws setup that does 200rwkws at 4,000rpm. I wonder if something like a Full Race manifold, twin gate and GTX3071R on a std RB25 would do over 200rwkws at 4,000rpm?

...on farking corn fuel Gone are the days where people are chasing numbers on 98. Come on Caltex, forget Commodore company cars...the performance enthusiast is a bigger market...get more servos stocking it

Any decision on this? Sorry if I am being a pain in the a55. I have some spare time weeknights at present and can give the times a good audit. Come March I am going to have the car in the garage working on it in all my spare time

The MX5 video is interesting. What tyres and mods has he got. His corner speed is great. Makes the Skylines look clumsy

What fuel? Nice result!!!

Lic plate R32 or RB26? If you mean RB26 then its Justin Fox's car ... http://speedhunters.com/archive/2011/03/02/car-feature-gt-gt-justin-fox-s-r32-gt-r.aspx

Nice work on the shrouds. Far nicer result then my 20mm thick clark foam/rubber which is cut to size and squeezed into the gaps between the radiator and cooler. About the only thing I will add is people try to duct a large surface area into smaller core etc thinking they are capturing more air and aiding cooling. Really what is more likely to happen is increase drag and cause too high a turbulence at the face of the cooler core and actually limit the flow through it.

Fingers crossed after months of neglect we will be able to get this thread back up and running with updates and the Top 10s updated.

If I was going to do anything to the inlet I would be interested in just modding the std inlet with a wider twin throttle body off an L98 or LT1 But I dont think I have ever read anyting about the std throttle being a restriction so not sure of there is anything to gain from going to smaller twins to try and sharpen throttle response and flow to the plenum

Does $1700 come with a gate? Is it meant to be a 60mm gate?

So Pete, forget shits and giggles. I want that manifold. Talk to me big buddy Dont need the turbos but if you dont want to split

If by Pro you mean wears creepy fishnets and sawed off jeans and prowls the streets of Zurich at 2am!

That one I told you about in Japan is still for sale http://page17.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/v228047993 But cant help you out with the requested money tree

May miss March, hope not. But should be all sorted by April. Cant wait to get the old girl back out there an hammering. Hopegully Leon, Belsil80, and a few others are back out there so we can battle out the 2L title Stuff Russ and his uber spec abomination....he can go play with Newton

His 73mm billet wheel is the FP Green 73HTA wheel. I assume his 68HTA is also an FP wheel. It appears the main difference between the FP Green turbo is that they use Garret turbines in Mitsu housings and GT Pumps use the TD06 based turbines. But the compressors are the same. But with different hot sides who knows whether they perform the same. One thing is that I dont have to worry about a single scroll T3 internal gate housing messing with performance as I have my Greddy 8cm to use with the external setup