Roy

Thats a pretty cool lip. Never seen that design before.

I think it starts life out as a TO4E. But the turbo is pretty customised. A friend has a restored R31 Gibson car, complete with spare blocks, heads, gearboxes...tasty stuff. They make about 300rwkws depending on boost. The turbo isnt std GTS-R. Just like the RS500s, they started life as a T04...but then...

Yes, I think all RB owners wish their cars sounding like this... Cars are an individual thing. You have to be able to laugh about the folly of modifying any car and best to keep your sense of humour. Build them for yourself and you will never be unhappy and you wont honestly give a f**k what other people thing about it

Except that its my motto that "People who put RB25s into R32s are the sort of people that would sleep with a mate's girlfriend. She may be an OK sort but you go there because she is easy. At least with an RB26 you have the excuse that she is a great sort but often warned off because of the associated price tag" "R32 owners still with the RB20 are the loyal guys who adopt other peoples abandoned dogs from the RSPCA and cherish those 10yr old thongs and hat as they think it gives them character"

Isnt there a difference in the fuels you are both running? Are you really making 30rwkws more then him? I have seen a few well setup R32 RB25 heads make great power. Its not the head as much as I understand it to be what is basically an RB20 inlet plenum. I know even at 270rwkws and RB20 that my thing now holds power far better after 7,000rpm with a new plenum. At 8,000rpm I make something like 30rwkws more. I do lose power through the mid-4,500rpm though Its in the car, I barely touch it and its reliable. In the 9 years I have been running the TD06 setup, I have tried cams which cost me about $800 all up after I sold them. I tried the plazmaman plenum which is about a 1.5k waste but something that did give me potential for more top end on the RB24. And I swapped the Greddy setup for a 6boost as part of a refresh after 6 years of fun with my setup. So all up have maybe spent ~3k on the RB20 after the TD06 was installed. To me thats not bad value for a setup as old as it is that has been tweaked to see if there is anymore in it. The Greddy turbo has been healthy for about 70,000kms as well and 9 years. I have been away for about 2 years of it so more like 7 years of use I have never felt it justified to go and spend a packet in one hit to do anything to another bigger RB. Its not like I have spent a lot of money on this one. It cost me $600...I have seriously spent more on oil changes and tracking it then I have on the motor and any farting assing about. But I do buy bits when they are cheap for my standby engine in case something should happen to the RB20. In the meantime its the cheapest way I can get to the track. The main reason I persist is I have had the car in this basic state since 2003. If I go and do major changes then all of a sudden its not as much fun if I go to the track and go quicker. Running the same basic car at the track is loads of fun. Same basic car means you chip away at PBs and when you go quicker you are stoked. You go slower and its frustrating but twice as rewarding when you are out there next and for a variety of reasons you beat your PB with the same basic car. I have improved out of sight as a driver, and truth is still need to improve a hell of a lot to even exploit the pace currently in the car with the RB20. Once I have done a 12 flat qtr. A 1:19.xx at Sandown. A 1:34.xx at Winton and a 1:47.xx at PI then I will may pull the RB20 out. Until then it stays as long as its healthy

The compressor follows its "pump curve" based on the pressure ratio. So whilst you are limiting your shaft speed the the compressors ability to keep up with the breathing of the engine is going to be roughly matched at low boost as it will be at high boost. That's from 10 sec think about pump theory. Others should jump in if that's wrong Re bigger RBs...yeh yeh. I enjoy playing with the little 20. The way I see it the lil 20 is like a fine tuning fork. If it works in the 20 it will work on the other RBs, however you may not notice the difference on the bigger RBs as they have airflow to burn and not as sensitive to changes

I think the 25G wheel is just maxed out. If he had a bung in the housing seeing what the back pressure was you would get a feel for how the L2 turbine and 10cm housing are doing keeping up with the cfm from the 3L. Wow, depressing to see how easy that thing makes power

Peak Power at 5,500rpm! Noses over rather badly after 7,000rpm. He has HKS cams and what looks to be a 10cm exhaust. I wonder if its the std inlet that makes it fall over or simply the little 25G wheel running out of puff. Would be a bit of an animal to drive with that graph. Makes me think Kando needs a T78 for all the RBDirty folk

Did you ever back to back the cams or did you just throw them in? Good luck with the sale. Well sorted and modified car , it should find a good home

Looks to be an 8cm housing? Or is it a 10cm housing?

It did seem a pretty harmless question. I get asked it all the time...the usual answer is time and finances.

My new bus. About to get rego after bringing it back with me from my holiday Engine Bay As we drove out of Zurich on the way to Stelvio stopped by this lake for a few pics Had to get a photo of it in a Texaco service station In the car park at Spa...parked near other 80s tragedy so snapped a pic Half way up the back way to the top of Stelvio Pass Top of Stelvio Pass Going back down Stelvio Pass in the Italian Alps Another part of the Alps, Flüela Pass At Nurburgring And when you are on an autobahn outside of Stuggart, make sure you go the wick turned up:)

Thats what i was thinking. Not a huge mount of work but longer then 2 hours by the time they drill and tap threads in inlet pipes for air temp (assume bits come off as nobody wants swarf in their engine from drilling and tapping, remove kick panels and run vacuum line and make sure it is all back together. For the vipec they also have to remove the board from the housing etc

When the Cosworth gets registered and I get the Skyline back from the work it is having done in Sydney. Probably start in the next two or so weeks. Firstly need to get all the turbos lined up and make sure I have all the fittings etc before I start.

Yeh, I suspect that none of the turbos I am trying out will be the perfect all rounder. Will see. But since I am getting them all tuned I am just going to save the tunes and use Datalogit to throw the tune in for the setup I have bolted on. Changing turbo is quicker then a brake pad and bleed

They are a business. No shame in making money from on-selling, especially if they are an approved dealer who has perhaps invested time and cost in training and supporting a product. Hell they dont get paid for the 40mins on the phone answering questions about the product, so if they sell it they are entitled to a few dollars in my eyes. LOL, that means I dont try and get around it myself Personally it pisses me off that I have an Cosworth ECU that works great....just isnt supported by anyone here as in motorsport world they sell themselves and not readily used by street/modded car workshops. So now have to look at something like a Link I cant even download the tuning software, I have to buy it So having a dealer network that is protected can be a good thing...you only notice it when there isnt a dealer network

Re Speedtech and others...Dont assume you will be able to buy from NZ or other OS stores. Two NZ Link dealers knocked me back in November as they were told not to sell into others markets. So I would be getting on the phone and speaking to them....yo umay find you have to buy off a local agent. Thats a good thing to me as whats the point of being a dealer if people are just going to buy OS. Sux for the consumer, but good for the shops that we need to have around to do work for us Anyone out there running either of these ECUs able to comment on their ability to hold boost? I am tempted to run some air injectors from the unused outputs as this approach seems to give you the boost control you need from internal gate turbos running E85 happy boost levels of ~28psi

Yeh, I have measured them up and the retractor are all vertical mount on the side of the car and perpendicular. So they have to be mounted in the vertical pointing straight up with no angle in the belt. The sash guide is directly above the retractor. Hopefully a 180SX or something is similar. Belts need to be 2.35m

I have, they are the ones telling me 2-3 week for making them up. Tempted to grab some out of a 180SX from someone wrecking. Not sure if the engineer will be happy with that and waiting to get his feedback. My understanding is that for a pre 89 car they only have to comply with ADR, not be new

These come around so quickly. Skyline in Sydney and Cossie shoudl have rego by then but will need a tune. May come down for drinks-laughs since I am only 40mins away these days

fatz, dont be a hack. I have grabbed a bunch of these so that i can easily change turbos etc without having to dick around with coolant lines going to awkward spots, ditto oil supply line. http://www.staubli.com/en/connectors/market-solutions/motorsports/dry-break-coupling-sphba/ Just need to work out whether I have enough space for wiggin/racetech clamps on the turbo outlet and make some v-band connectors for the outlet. I have got a Datalogit now so think I am just going to go TD05-1G for street and Winton etc and 73HTA for Sandown, PI and giggles on E85

I am trying to get seat belts for my imported Sierra. I am being told 2-3weeks for delivery. Does anyone know a supplier that can turn them around quicker?

No idea. With my A/F meter plumbed up, the knocklink and a G4 I was going to give it a go. The Cossie is only a street car so not like I will be chasing power from it or stressing the old girl

The Carling Zed was such a cool car. And no disrespect to Carling but I understand that with a pilot it would have been quicker again

Is one cheaper then the other? I only need to run a 4 cylinder so thinking the G4 Storm wire in will do the trick?