Roy

From a track day in December at Phillip Island

He got pipped it seems today. Bagged a podium and didn't end up in the drink

I was running Grade 8 bolts and they were typically shagged after a track day. Next week of driving would have small exhaust leaks which I could nip up but were a pain in the ass. The original Trust studs were tops...but when my car went to a workshop for some work all the studs were repalced with bolts and hence the problems started. Majority of turbo suppliers do them. I got mine from a place in Melb but pretty sure GCG and others all do them. You can easily get them on line from US and if you are like me and never have any time to go buy stuff from actual places so want to buy online

Meh. Its motorsport. You come second it just means you have the second biggest cheque book

I dont think they are. I think you just have to cough up the dollars for Inconel studs fasteners. You go years on the street with no issues with either 3 or 4 bolt housings. As soon as you start flogging them on the track std or crap bolts yield

Hmm...will get one sooner or later. Need to chat as needs to be modded to suit rwd and need to understand if it will clear my swaybars and whats going on with baffles and volume. I need to understand if/why you need 8 or 9L in a rwd car. Surely if you are keeping oil temps around 100deg C and you are not getting surge then do I need the headaches of uber pricey oil changes

Who knows? Tial seem to think that if they are going to go to the trouble of making housings for Garrets that they do v-band round rather then square. But then EFR range which are meant to be all things in turbo design are square...but then the TR30R is round....so who knows. Doubt it makes a poofteenths difference in the real world when running on a car. I suppose in theory you can have the same A/R and flow with less friction losses against internal wall of housings.

Go see your doctor. They can write you a script for a prescription drug that increases your bodies production of melanin. It makes you very photsensitive so you have to be careful the first few days that you are out in the sun and wear plenty of sun block. It can help you build up a decent tan which by itself helps build up a better tolerance for exposure to the sun. One of my old clients use to make the drug and they are now in partnership for research into better melanin releasing products. From memory when chatting to the gusy in the lab at lunch things like tyrosine and Gingko biloba mcan boost melanin production

So who is going to give a Kando billet a go?

Seems most of the talk is around the shank of the turbo. The billets being thinner so you actually get more surface area of blade . Well at least thats what the CBRD crowd really emphasise You can see a small difference in the pics for the adverts http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Billet-Compressor-Wheel-7075-AL-T67-25G-TD07S-25G-Extra-30-airflow-/270897143127?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f12ba5d57#ht_2045wt_1270 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Compressor-Wheel-Mistubishi-T67-TD06SH-TD07S-25G-/290657757814?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43ac8d6a76#ht_2173wt_1270 LOL, more then anything all I want is one of those pretty billet nuts that go on the comrpessor

How often do teams have the best, top 2 car for 4 years in a row? You would have to think this year could be the start of period where Mercedes, Fezz or Macs come back and the RBR is fighting for a top 4 starting spot. The reasonably static rules and regs may mean RBR hang in there but with no blown diffuser the field is leveled a little

But I think Kando can only do 8cm TD06/T67 housings in the Mitsu/Trust 3 bolt housing. They couldnt do me a TD05 housing or TD06H Trust style housing. That was 6 months ago so maybe doing them now?!?!?!?! I have been looking into this a fair but and its so hard to get reliable information. From what I can see there is the usual common sources of suppliers. I understand the FP ones are unique, and the BBK ones are unique. There are several other US places doing billet wheels and talk on US forums is that they dont get the response/improvements that the FP wheels get...and it appears they are a common supply. Ditto the BBK wheels which on US forums seem to have them a little behind the FP wheel. I think I am going to try the 18G then hi-flow it with a 68HTA wheel and see how it looks. If I can get something that hammers on the RB20 then it will be a good thing on the RB24 :)Anywhere around 270-300rwkws is nice. More then anything I want 250rwkws from 4,750rpm The talk on the 73HTA vs 20G is a genuine increase of 15% in power for same response...on some setups a tad better transient response. So if simply throwing a billet wheel at my 20G has me going fr0m 270rwkws to 305-310rwkws on 98 then I will be the happiest guy in the country. If that goes to plan I will be in all you T67 guys ear to try the 76HTA I would love to know for real if there really is any difference between the Blouch, CBRD, Forced performance compressors etc. It seems to me the biggest variable is the turbines. Some run GT30 turbines, others cropped Mitsubishi turbines. There is probably a lot of hit and miss with the wheel cropping versions

Isnt it. Tragedy is all i need for my new engine is an oil pump and a sump. Grab one of these then the quest for a cheap oil pump could see me with a complete engine ready to go cheat

Hey Pete. People sometimes dont bother with running water cooling saying "some turbos only run oil so all is good." But the way I think about it is that the bearing materials, housing design and materials are all designed and selected on the assumption that coolant/water is going to keep the ultimate temperature lower. So if you run them without you may end up with premature bearing failure as a result of running hotter then normal.

I cant help but think that with the money and people Mercedes have been recruiting that this year will see Rosberg with a few wins

Eek...great photo though!

Thats the plan. Will start bolting all the fluff on early-mid Feb when Fatz gets his CS's off my car and it gets back to Melb. Waiting for th ebillet turbz...will post pics of it side by side with the TD06-20G and the TD05, T67 and 25G next week

Re ramp rates, if the runs are months apart and graphs pulled up retrospectively for comparative purposes I guess its no surprise that the ramp rates are different ?!?!?!

Interesting all the same. Cant wait to get this lil 18G strapped on my car and throw 20psi at it. I am real curious the power difference at 4,500rpm, 5,000rpm and 5,500rpm. We can start a pool. My 2c/hopes: 4,500rpm - +30rwkws 5,000rpm - +15rwkws 5,500rpm - 0rwkws I have posted this stuff in my build thread but will post some of it as it may answer some questions. My Trust TD05 housing fits the "Kando the Boost Mutilator" turbo no probs. So that was a rellief as I was concerned with so many TD05 wheels around that Trust may not have suited the TD05H wheel Kando use. The lines are robust but pretty heavy and I am going to turf them and use new lines I will make up. So if you are buying the turbo I personally wouldnt stress too much about whether you get their fitting kit or not. The CHRA looks fine, plenty of oil in it for storage and the compressor cover isnt too bad. A few marks here and there but will polish them out. For the money!.... TD05H-18G Then side by side with my Trust T67-25G (10cm)

Then side by side with my Trust T67-25G (10cm)

Well I cant commit to anything at the second. But post all the immediate testing I have planned will definitely re-consider if my engine is still healthy after so many tuning/dyno pulls and testing. In the meantime. Dummy fitted up the TD05H-18G. I need to go to jail for ripping of a Trust turbo and tryign out a "Kando the Great" turbo ... TD05H-18G