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Everything posted by Roy
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My votes are in...dont forget its no GTR but its cool....and probably the only car on SAU that gets to wear its Nurburgring sticker havign actually been there Pics of the old girl are at http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/372973-near-life-experience-2011/
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There are two very tasty cars for sale at the moment. Steve Richards is building up an Escort...was really hoping he was going to join the category
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Yep, The Brown Davis cage was similar to what I have now...but I couldnt recline seats all the way back as my Momo seat is quite wide and used to hit it. Also didnt have a diagonal in the main hoop which i was worried would limit access for rims and tools. Pro Fabrications did a top job to package the bolt in cage far tighter to the body, provide a diagonal in the main hoop all whilst giving me the same, if not more rear access for storage of stuff when getting to/from the track
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Yeh, harness bar in the main hoop is probably best anyway. Some argue that longer harness means in a big accident the longer belts stretch a little (we are talking mms not inches) and this flexibility reduces internal organ damage due to high Gs. Of course being shorter if the car distorts your belts are less likely to loosen as things move....but main reason I like harness bar between struts rather than the main hoop is acces and putting rims etc in the back seat even though you have a cage
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So what are Williams going to do now? Another year for Rubens? They need to make up their mind soon so the driver can get in there over the off season and work with the team and engineers
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Can you fit a harness bar on the bar between rear legs when you are running them beside the rear arch?
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I am depressed
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BSA, where are the rear legs welded to?
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GPS so accurate hey? Fark me! I come on to the straight at PI at 170-80km/h and I hit 233km/h going downhill, on a very long straight with a short braking area as turn 1 is ~180k/h. Yet you hit the same speed on that lap! I need to pull my finger out and get the Cossie registered so the R32 can go corn juice and more boost
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Easy as that hey Zebs? Installing a cage in a car and understanding which sections to weld first, last...which members should pick up where ...are all things you only learn the hard way or by getting advice from those who have done it before.
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Rather than delete his posts...hit him up for info and advice! If you think your welding is up to it than I dare say you would be well served by buying a kit pre bent from them and welding it up. You say seamless pipe, what grade of pipe/tube are you using? From the pics its not clear, but it looks like you are not running your rear legs to the inner guard or strut top?!?!?!
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Geez Paul, that may be enough power to justify some real man's brakes
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Fark me if your GPS speed is correct it monsters my car for straight line speed! Looks to be hammering! Sorry to read about more engine woes
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I need to learn how to use photoshop...
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So is it actually photo shopped or is it some brat Cannonball entrant etc? My english/typing isnt great when suffering from sleep deprivation
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It was on an page about retarded things have done to people. Amongst a bunch of weird things done to old cars their were these pics. I admit, I chuckled at its wrongness.
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Pics Of Your Car At Or On The Track
Roy replied to hamiltonau's topic in Motorsport Discussion & Builds
Was it you i met at Philip Island the other day or your Dutton co-driver. (Was with Troy in the S15) -
Mazda Rx3Gt Restoration
Roy replied to ylwgtr2's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Dont look at me. I was never there. Dont blame me for the broken parts! ...sorry about breaking those parts -
Was working...try again
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You seem to be giving a lot of thought to plenum size and runner length. Have you given any thought to injector location, number of injectors, throttle bodies qty and distance from inlet valves, types of throttle bodies... By saying you have looked at lots of manufactures I suspect you are missing the big picture, as they are pretty basic (cheap) manifolds made for what is really a limited volume application which is aftermarket Nissan RB world. If by big name manufacturers you are forgetting what Hypertune/Plazmaman, Greddy etc are doing and reading fluid texts and looking at ports prototype, rally, indy cars, JGTC cars etc are all doing then I think you stand a chance of achieving something better then oterhs are currently doing. Even then you will need a good enough understanding of what they are doing with their FIA restrictors and wat their manifolds are doing for their setups A good thing to consider , if you are committed to doing this is what in the world of racing runs an inline 6? Then from there what is running a turbo inline 6? Kind of obvious to start at JGTC RB26s that have some freedom on the inlet side of things.
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I am with a few others in saying spend the money where you will see value and an increase in performance. But then a part of me is saying go for it, irrespective of the fact that you will probably sink $1500-2000 into it and go backwards (I have done the same thing ) The math is the math, and provided you passed 3Unit High School math you can keep pace with it. What Zebra is saying is correct, you need an understanding of fluid mechanics combined with your reading to understand the best place to start and tweak. Thats a start...you seem to be on the right path with a willingness to experiment...but I hope your tuner shares your interest. 3 or 4 tunes and you will have already sunk over $1000 into the exercise. I think for what you are trying to achieve you will struggle to see any increase in torque, response etc over std. Its much easier to extend the high rpm power with a manifold then it is to increase torque. I suggest if you really want to achieve what you aim then ask yourself what compromises do the std Nissan intakes make? Kind of obvious cost is one of the biggest compromises and multi throttle setups are where you will see the biggest gains. Whatever you design make it modular so that you can easily change runner lengths, bell mouth designs, and plenum volume. I suspect 6 throttles will be too expensive (or you can just go GTR inlets with a tweak to achieve what you want) so try twin throttle which will be a no brainer but if you want your engine bay to "look" good more then perform better then std then packaging will be a nightmare. I think with about 5K in development you would be able to get a good result but its from changing the whole methodology not just tweaking plenum volume and taking an inch off runner length
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A Boy's Love For His Rb20
Roy replied to Roy's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
My car never rates highly in the most photographed or quickest stakes...but when the vid camera rolls due to how loud the car is it sometimes gets air time. SAU - Nats vid at 13 seconds and again at 1:05...where you see some white knuckle oppo lock mid corner -
Will look at the UK ones over the weekend , thanks
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The New Soft Brake Pedal Thread.
Roy replied to Abo Bob's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
I keep old brake pads for use when bleeding brakes after I have ripped everything off and broken lines. Throw the heavily worn pads in and bleed the brakes. The pistons will be well out of the caliper. Once you have bled the brakes I remove the worn pads... crack the bleed nipple with a hose on it and push back the pistons all the way into the caliper. I bet you see bubbles I then install my new pad on that side of the caliper and repeat for the side that still has the worn pad. Once you have pushed back all the pistons and have your new pads in then crack the nipples again and pump some fluid through. You will find when installing new calipers etc that there is air at the back of the pistons. When you bleed brakes you are bleeding between the master cylinder the the nipples on top of the caliper. if there is air behind the pistons or downstream of the nipples it isnt comign out unless you stroke the pistons all the way out, fill the backs with what fluid you can with bleeding and pumping and then with the nipple cracked push the pistons all the way back into the caliper. Any air will come out the bleed nipple with the flow of fluid rather than back up the lines to the master. Feel free to post blank cheques to me when this fixes your problem. if it doesnt do the trick then apologies for making you jack the car up and fluff around with fluid all over your hands etc...farking dirty, messy brakes can be bastards to bleed some times