Roy

So have some old Recaros LS seats that I want to get re-trimmed. Doesnt have to be show car, just neat and tidy using cloth to make some old Supra Recaros with tears like this To be trimmed i materials/colours similar to this..

LOL, this could be one of those right place, tight time situtation. When are the coming off and$$$$? Seems they are like new?!? As for front guards? I was going to but was talked out of it by a friend and the panel beater. Ended up spending money on pumping the guards which was a false economy as cost a healthy wack of cash and still only gives me enough clearance for 265/35/18 on 9" rims with a 25-28 offset. But ride height cant be too low. Partly why I stick with my 255/17s. So, I would do it. I have seen a few cars and I dont think it really looks out of place provided you are running the suitable wheel size. A white car would hide them better too IMO

Great to see an R32 GTSt on the receiving end of so much love and good parts! Are the Ikeya front arms the std R32 length / how do they compare to the R33 arms you used to run? Also, can you just confirm your tyre, wheel size and offset on the front? I am running 17 x 9 +28 rims with 255/40/17 A050s and with std, albeit lipped guards I want to do everything to ensure that it all still fits. Also, I have 18 x 9 +22s which one day I would like to run 255 semis on but the larger rollign diam of the 18s hurts for clearance. Cheers for any help...tossing up between complete Ikeya arms or persevering with just RCA ball joints

I have been trying to refurb all the suspension on my car and purchased the roll centre adjusters from Japan. The Nagisa Auto listing states that the R32 and S13 ball joint are compatible but turns out the taper on the ball joint is different. So have a pair of front S13 Nagisa Auto roll centre adjusters for sale. They are brand new but have been obviously pressed into the LCA. This is the exact auction I bought them from: http://page3.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/c469817071?u=%3b_yuya_9998 One of the boots has pinch marks from the socket I used to press in, other is fine as I waited until I go the proper press bush from work to do. Can supply as just the RCA ball joint or with an HCR32 arm that has been stripped and painted silver and had brand new noltec inner bush installed. RCA Ball Joint only - $210 plus delivery RCA with arm and new noltech bushes - $400

So broke out the verniers and hunted through boxes of rubbish to find my old R32 GTSt ball joints. The R32 balljoint has the following measurements: length of taper 24mm diameter at top of taper 15mm diameter at bottom of taper 18.5mm length of threaded section 23mm LOL, so same as R33, provided those dimensions posted above for R33 are correct. But based on Sick_R31 is saying they are and finally can go spend another small fortune with some peace of mind

Getting fuel economy from E85 would be interesting Say what you want about manufacturers chasing fuel economy on their own but motorsport always pushes development faster. I wouldnt midn the fuel economy thing if they stiull made a sporting contest out of it. Bring back refuelling. Limit tank size. And make it so that pit stops for refuelling are timely ie also safe without cars being launched down the pits with only 3 tyres etc. But, it cost too much money apparantly to move fuel rigs around from GP to GP! Oh but they can bring in small cities for corporate entertainment

Good to know. Cheers

How was it cooking coils? I was looking for one just for the plug in simplicty. May need to change that thinking

For those of us that missed the bulletin what is wrong with the HKS DLI II ?

I run the GTR resistor pack am running ID1000 GTR injectors. They came as a kit with plugs etc. Seem to think they were 1000.13.04.60.14.6 Just soldered the new plugs onto the loom and kept everything else as per the old Nismo RB26 injectors, R32 AP Eng Power FC and GTR ballast pack

Imo it's a process control (lack of) causing the problem. Thre are various grades of 300 series stainless steel that lend themselves to better high temp operation but in instances their weldability, machinability etc vary and work against you. Plain old 316L is fine IMO The trick is to control the oxygen. If you can keep the O2 content of the purge gas below 1000ppm and you get good penetration without missed egdes/undercut etc then you are going to get a good weld. Its not hard to do right but its easy to get wrong if you dont know what you are really trying to achieve for a good robust fabrication If you get the O2 down around 150ppm then you will get a weld completely devoid of any discolouration. I have posted this before... http://www.assda.asn.au/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/Figure-2-AWS-image-2.jpg Anything under 1000ppm you will easily get a 3 or better. In some semiconductor applications we need to get it down to a level 1 so have to go through with the timely purges to get down to 150ppm. To get a shiny stainless finish most people pickle or polish the weld and for most applications that will be fine as it restores the chromium oxide layer and corrossion resistance of the materials surface. But in applications where you care about the underlying material properties/metallurgy due to its intended duty ....you control the weld pool. Then the weld and its immediate area exhibit largely the properties of the annealed parent metal. How often have you seen tube flat out fail in any other area outside of the weld?

What happened to the little smiley that was jackign off? Its called for by this thread !

Yeh, Stress Corrosion Cracking (SCC) is very commonly seen with chloride attack. But its not the only cause The thing to consider is stainless becomes highly sensitised at high temperatures. So the cracks along grain boundaries will likely still be an issue at 700-800deg C exhaust gases in stainless in the absence of chlorides simply due to the sensitised nature of stainless at that temp.

Not trying to trick anyone. You only have to look at the inside of manifolds to see that they are not even purged. Hell even on weld externals people play with current etc to try and get the blue tint etc on the weld for aesthetic reasons ! People need to change their thinking to colour = damage to material! Use something like Varigon as the shielding gas and argon as the purge and provided you get the O2 down you barely even get a straw colour heat affected zone (HAZ). So knowing how the absence of colour in the HAZ is beneficial to the crystalline structure of the weld and its performance then you can start to defend stainless as a material, even when used as tubing vs pipe in exhaust manifolds. But no need to use such expensive gases, straight argon is fine for what you are trying to achieve with a manifold Then understanding what is going on in the HAZ during fabrication I think you can start to consider what is going on during normal manifold operation. Just like the argon shielding the weld pool when at high temperature and stopping it reacting with the atmosphere...ceramic coating performs a similar function in addition to reducing skin temperature. It also provide more uniform temperature gradient across the material. So ceramic coating is good for thermal performance but also material performance. But it wont fudge poor fabrication or material selection. So I touch on this stuff as I think you need to be on board with this sort of thinking before going on about stainless is crap and will crack. I personally think coating and wrapping manifolds are fine. I coated and wrapped my Trust stainless tubular exhaust manifold. I stopped wrapping as it simply wasnt durable enough for me,

LOL, so now try again and take all the noise outr of your post and stick to stuff that is pertinent and not about impressing us all The biggest ticket item IMO the carbide precipitation/stress corrossion cracking during fabrication and operation of a tubular/stainless manifold Re argon....argon is common for shielding gas, but often people dont bother purging for things like exhausts. In part because they are not worried about penetration, internal dicolouration etc but importantly its what using an argon purge does to stop atmosphere/oxygen from affecting the crystallline structure during welding.

I am not going to go into all here as i reckon based on the bickering I will post this up and after you all argue and swing dicks you will get to the truth What happens to 300 series stainless steel when it is welded and why purging and shielding with argon is critical. Also what carbide precipitation is and consider why ceramic coating is great for that. When you ladies get to the bottom of that we can move on to wrapping

God I hope Alonso goes to McLaren and rips Nico-Lewis, Vettel and all comers a new one. It is bad for F1 when comfortably one of the best two drivers in F1 is wallowing in a car that cant get on the front row and struggles for a podium. The way the guy has slogged away has won me over and am actually rooting for Mclaren to have a good year. As always, hope: - Homo implodes because his Mrs gets d1cked by some uber rich old timer / "Flav like" playboy - Kimi turns things around - Lotus kick ass and we have the 3rd coming of Romain - Dan has a strong year - Williams continue the trend - Sauber dont continue to disappoint Actually, really this year I am open minded and think I am going to enjoy the season. The only thing I really dont want to happen is Homo have a good year and Vettel find his feet. I want him to be absolutely destroyed by Kimi...so really need the tyres to come to Kimi

SO....what is this I hear of a trip to Phillip Island? Any vids or updates on the lil bus?

Has anyone seen the stainless actually crack or it crack along the seam weld? I have only ever seen them crack in the welds. Frankly depending on what manifold it is I wouldn't have a problem wrapping them as long as you put some thought into it. Every cracked manifold I have seen has been a tubular manifold with welds with no/poor/inconsistent weld penetration. Never seen a manifold made from stainless pipe (vs tube) crack. The wall thickness is the cheap insurance and reason why people have far less issues with mild steel. IMO stainless is actually superior if done right

OK some other numbers copies and pasted from other forums The S13 balljoint has the following measurements: length of taper 19.5mm diameter at top of taper 16mm diameter at bottom of taper 18mm length of threaded section 22mm The R33 balljoint has the following measurements: length of taper 24mm diameter at top of taper 15mm diameter at bottom of taper 18.5mm length of threaded section 23mm It seems the Nagisa listing is wrong and need to buy their S14. Silly bastards. LOL anyone need S13 RCAs ?

Just found this posted on a forum by Cazman S13 Front Taper low diameter 15.8mm Taper High diameter 18mm Taper length 19.5mm 20mm Diameter where it presses in 41mm S13 Rear Taper low diameter 15mm Taper High diameter 18.6mm Taper length 23mm or 23.5 Diameter where it presses in 38mm R32 front Taper low diameter 15mm Taper High diameter 18.6mm Taper length 23mm Diameter where it presses in 41mm

LOL...fark. I paid more for these ones Any idea of the dimensions so I can double check? Cheers, big help Edit..a friend put R33 LCA into his R32 and he said he had to swap over the ball joint?

LOL, so now that I have had some machine shims machined to suit the OD of the ball joint I have managed to pack the difference in height so now happy. But....sadly this brings me on to the next problem. The shank is different in taper and diameter. http://www.rhdjapan.com/nagisa-auto-hyper-roll-center-adapter-front-nissan.html They are claiming the same part number but appears as though they use different tapers so fark knows why they sell what appear to be suited to R32 owners S13 ball joints. Can anyone confirm the differences between ball joints between various S-model platforms and R32s??? The taper on the Nagisa Auto RCA appear to be thicker at the top. Tempted to turn them down but fitting them in a lathe wont be exactly easy. This is starting to get frustrating Seems in hindsight I shoudl have checked Ikeya who list different part numbers. Seems they are the only ones that care about being right rather than close enough is.... I dont want to spend the money but at least I can be sure they will fit. After buying new bushes, RCAs etc the std front arms already owe me about $350-400 and really want to try and make it work if I can find an RCA for an R32 GTSt http://www.rhdjapan.com/ikeya-formula-roll-center-adjuster-pillow-lower-arm-kit-nissan.html

One thing to consider is that there are people claiming to have done 12 track days and 5,000km on the street on AD08Rs. Certainly not possible to get that sort of economy out of A050s

Thanks ppl!