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Everything posted by Roy
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I will say it. The AWD does make it easier to grab a lower gear and rag on it out of exits. But I understand your point. I am yet to see where having an RB30 makes the car measurably quicker on the circuit. I would be very interested to see someone that kept the same turbos and head but only changed to an RB30 bottom end whether they would be quicker at the track...I think the lowst revs I pull at the track is Sandown turn 4 and I am still at 4,200rpm in 3rd....so easily able to grab 2nd but your point about drivability means I try to hold 3rd. If the RB30 is still ahead of the 26 at 4,750rpm when the show is all happening with boost in its guts and can hold on to 7,800rpm then I guess the RB30 is the better option.
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Thought the main one that is covered in Option mags/dvds was November
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Note sure you can charge for oil downs etc. The cars by nature are ticking tiem bombs sooo. But if you wan to put in far more robust pre-event scrutiny weeks out where the scrutineer can tell you things like - unsupported oil coolers - oil-water-electrical lines through panels with no grommets is a no-no. - no overflow for cooling systems - exposed coolers and lines/harnesses in wheel arches - questionable integrity of aero and fitment of panels etc etc then go for it. From my perspective anyway most oil downs I have seen could have been pipcked up before the cars went out...typically not from rods out the block
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They put the one they made in a Nissan box and showed the scrutineers. Not like any one knew what the cars had back in Japan anyway.
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Something I have noticed , and it was easy for me as only running a 2L RB20 with TD06 I gave away displacement and sometimes power to cars but give or take had the same gearing. You come out of a corner at a certain speed...not a certain rev. So if cars both come out of a corner at 70km/h and a car with an RB26 makes its power from 4,500rpm to 8,500rpm and the RB30 makes its from 4,000rpm to 7,500rpm....well my money is on the RB26 being quicker irrespective of torque etc etc Especially if it can hang on to a gear longer. Thats assuming you have simply thrown in an RB30 and running same wheels and gears. If you cant rev the RB30 as hard as you can the RB26 then I dont think you can automatically say the RB If you go RB30 and drop a gear ratio and you can use the torque to push you along then so be it. And for those talking about reving an engine to the moon. A) its fun. WAAAAY more fun then changing gears at 6,000rpm like you do in a say a typical V8. Hell my Cossie has a limiter at 7,200rpm and I really miss the extra 1600rpm my RB20 gave me. B) you got a shorter stroke or if you are lucky and have a narrower bore and lighter piston then revs dont hurt an engine more then a bigger engine pulling less revs. At the end of the day its the metallurgy of the crank, rods and pistons and how you oil and cool the thing. I agree that you want to make as much power with as few revs and boost as you can make....but do the numbers on stroke, piston speeds and rod lengths etc before saying revs are bad.
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Why does it have a circular opening in the flange to the turbo ? Seems odd? Also, the fact that the GTS-R and Gibson manifolds are tube not pipe, means the resonance from them will be different. If you want MAX banshee than tubular manifold will be the pick. not one out of pipe bends
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Ahhh ludicrous speed! The result of ludicrous ;power. Love it!
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Sux to be Felix Da Costa right now....but he has hurt his rep with a scrappy year in WSR. Hope fresh fish smashes JEV Imagine being 19 and a GP3 driver getting pushed into F1
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Ouch...looks a pretty bad accident. Nice of the guy to stop but not sure it was the smart/done thing.
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So the ARK R32 GTR that missed lasts years event has gone to the graveyard of cut up cars? Alos, I have seen pics of the black Supra, Gorilla Ind or something. Always liked the car as it was quick and still looked like a street car....any idea how it ended up eating wall??? Major damage ?
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Good work! What is your best PI time? Do you agree with the theory that generally if you do a 1:42 at EC then you can do 1:43 at PI. Generally about the same or a second or so slower at PI?
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There is nothing wrong/ to worry about re oiling with rwd RBs
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NOICE!
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I can see how that could have been a highlight
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Testament to do how strong they can be when you give them the right gear and tune them well. Credit to you and the posse working on it!
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So this is what GTR oweners do with their Fridays when the rest of us are at work! You are dead to me!
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Is it still the std headgasket and original motor? Your cars always kick a55! Glad you are an R32 owner and dont fiddle with 33s
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Do you know what housing flange - A/R it is running? There is not a lot of space in the Sierra engine bay so prefer to run internal gate and smallest frame turbo...hence why the 7163 seems an option.
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LOL...leave the sniper posts out of what is a decent enough discussion over turbos. Plus discop mentioned a YBB Cosworth engine in his post so one of the best posts ever on SAU! I am only after a punchy 260+rwkws from my Cossie. The thing is low compression so happy to run up to 26psi. I just have to get my head around running a turbo with wheels the sizes of the EFR 7064 and 7670 and still be able to get good reponse and torque as the engine only pulls 7,000rpm. I think I would be happy with 6758 but sounds like the twin scroll T4 7163 will be the go. What hot side options are there with regards to IWG and A/R for the T4? Geoff...will these end up on your site or should I just drop you some mail in a few weeks?
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R32s are good things. I have punted mine and loved it for 14 years. But they are old buses. I have barely driven my car this year as for the second time I have to go through all the suspension and driveline and life everything. On E85 i made 310rwkws with my std RB20 with a TD06-20G. Had a load of bolts on though so over the years it didnt hurt so much. But to throw those bolt ons in one go its probably close to 10k tuned and running at that power. An RB25 with all std manifolds and a $100 high flow turbo and $800 eco and injectors and afm will make the sme power for way less. The front & rear susp geometry in an R32 isnt as good as an R33...R32sa are pretty much more expensive these days. The wheel arches are smaller....and gearbox not as strong. Though the RB20 in my opinion is way stronger and the reduced torque often makes for an easier car to drive quick and with the extra few revs they can pull along with extra boost they can handle are often not out of their depth racing bigger dispacement RB cars. But, if you dont care about the looks of the car, just want a strong reliable car that can be quick and interesting to drive...then hard to go past an R33 GTS25t
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The various Lotus 7 replicas out there can be good things if you buy the right kit. Some are rubbish...others better. Caterham adn Westfield seem to be the pick of the litter. But they are not cheap cars by the time you get them to Aus and built. But epicly quick for outright pace when you [unt them hard https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNsunDsRIzA
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R33 is the way to go. Can buy them for 6-8k with fmic and coilovers. Have way stronger gearbox, can make an easy 250-280rwkws with a high flow. Guards accept bigger tyres and bigger brakes std. If you put the 25 gearbox on an R32 you are generally within 20-30kgs of being the same weight so R33s are not as heavy as people make out and they have better rear end geometry and also front end geometry. The fact that they are often cheaper than R32s.....if you can handle styling they are quite easily a lot more capable as a basically std car than an R32
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Good luck this weekend! Hope the 32s can muscle into the tops of the timeslips
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Its interesting because I have to reach for the excuse jar for Dan. I had through that the stats would have added up rather favourably for Dan given his form post Silverstone.
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The world is 1D and B&W and flat. I cant think of a race since the sumemr break where Jev has been near Dan on the road...too many car probs etc throwing variables at them. Though Dan and STR were silly not to give the position back on the weekend