Roy

So from interwebs chat the pick of cams are Tomei then HKS, I had Apexi cams that were similar to HKS cams with my 20G and they sucked. Remember that the RB20 std has the same sized cams as the RB25s. That despite 500cc less and half a point of compression. So beauty of RB20s are you have to be pressing them pretty hard to justify new cams. I am of the thought unless you are flat out curious dont bother with cams as I think the money would be wasted. Unless you are pushing over 330rwkws I dont think cams are going to do anything for you. I have a spare throttle body that is getting bored out but I am packing more cc these days so my results are more representative of RB25 results then RB20 and I am hoping for something over 330rwkws

Just keep in mind that Risking has posted a cross flow radiator. If you are running a traditional radiator its probably a good idea to run a non pressure cap and bleed to the top tank to your header tank. The wide top tank vs narrow cross flow tank means the raised section for the radiator cap is a pretty opportunistic place to bleed to your header tank

Want to but some alloy to hard pipe it and need to know what id the hose is for R32 radiators

One thing I noticed when I was going from my car with the gate plumbed in to atmo. I used to shift earlier with the atmo gate as it sounds like you are ragging on it so much harder when you are not. With it plumbed back I would hit the limiter more often. Strange but I suspect based on where its cracking gate in 1st gear that you are shifting somewhere well under 7,500rpm and depending on your curve you could be starting off in the next gear with 60rwkws less then if you used an extra 500rpm before shifting. You really need to look at your power curve and gearing and work out the optimum revs for average spread of power. I know I had to rev my RB20 about 1,000rpm harger to have a real difference in power with the Plazmaman as under 5,000rpm it was generally lazier. So I used to hit about 9,0000rpm in 1st and every other gear about 8,300-8,500rpm to make sure it stayed on the boil

Cant agree with that statement for a second. The RB20 needs all the effeciency it can get on the exhaust side and a nice tubular exhaust manifold, preferably 6-2-1 style rather than a 6-1 type will give you more grunt everywhere then the same turbo on the std manifold. Thats assuming the same turbo being internal gate. If you go a high mount manifold and external gate you will 90% of the time get better top end as the boost control generally works a lot better. I also found out what yesterday what everyone already knew. No matter how big the rear housing you try on a 20G, how much boost you run...the compressor calls it quits at about 310-315rwkws. The real interesting thing is for a road car you shoudl run an 8cm housing. Hits 18si at about 3,500rpm and pulls 300rwks then boost falls over to about 15psi. There is no point reving it over 6,750rpm as the thing has no top end and is choking on exhaust gas with the little 8cm housing. But if you are running E85 it really lets you get away with a less then efficient setup with such a choked hot side of the turbo. Running so little boost, running so few revs and being so damn punchy with the 8cm housing would give you a good reliable street setup on an RB25. Now for the Poncams and the 73HTA. Should know by Wed. But safe to say the 8cm vs 12cm on the TD06-20G is a waste of time. It just moved the whole power band almost 1,000rpm for no gain in max power or torque curve. It may have helped traction that's about it. So if its a street car 8cm. Track car 10cm housing as it will trade a few rpm of response but allow you to run more ignition and boost up top and give you a better spread of power rather then the more peaky 8cm result.

Looks like Alcon have changed the production of the calipers the past 18 months. Those that I have see lately, seem to be a slightly tattier casting. They used to be a far better quality casting over the likes of the Brembos but now they look similar. They also seem to paint on the Alcon logo vs having the Alcon logo machined into the caliper face with paint filling the machined relief

Well thats shit. Good street tyres are drug money and I only run other people's uses semis. Oh well will stick with running aroubf with EA Falcons and E30s at PIARC

Mint 32...I think I saw that on Pistonheads Was only a matter of time until those rear spoilers caught on. Awesome looking pieces of kit. Amongst all these pretty cars ai recently trie dto rpetty up my engine bay of my track 32...its a bit blingy but blowby will soon dull everything down

Cool. So my car would fit with street. All of a sudden interested in running at Wakefield:) ... lol and finishing behind you

Is there a link to the regs for street class. A street class that can run semis is appealing to me

12 runs!...Sheesh I think i have done less than that my entire life. Good luck with getting it sorted. I can understand your frustration but provided the car is fun and reliable. SO moving on to a question for Stao. What is the best Mitsubishi based turbo you can come up with for an RB25 that wants more power then a T67-25G but not quite T78 domain

That video is no different to how I ran my car when at the drags as I didnt want to break anything. Still did a 12.9 @113mp with 2.2 60ft and 234rwkws of TD06 RB20. I will just question, are you sure you are not rolling forward a smidge and braking the light. I remember doing an awesome run and got a 15.4 or something. I was waiting for a loud V8 to launch and piss off so I could hear what my car was doing and I must have just broken the light.

LOL Trust goodness!

Did you kill the 20G or RB20? OR just time to move on?

There was something I read somewhere that they stripped the turbos after heavy dyno running and holding under heavy load in top gear and the oils that are full of fluff for highway emmissions and economy, even the premium street oils resulted in heavy fouling around the bearing and discolouration of the bearings. The turbos didnt fail...just said they were showing all the signs of increased wear after only some rather sever dyno pulls and loading.

Friend towed his Cortina to the historics at Bathurst over Easter in his SS Crewman. Averaged 12.5L/100km. Didnt think it was too bad and is a very comfortable ride with tray space for tyres and tools. They go pretty cheap now too

Measure 64 times, do 7 times....you know how it is Still a wor in progress as waiting for shocks to come back from revalving

In passing I have read on US-UK forums that with E85 boost pressures have all gone through the roof and unless you are running a racing oil with loads of zinc and phosphorous then you will find that 2bar on a bush bearing turbo will end up with poor lifespan of the turbo. Since moving to Melb 8 years ago I have always run Castrol Edge but am tempted to revert back to Mobil 1 Racing...depsite it being a head fark to source

Hoping to do the Touring at that event. Should be a good weekend

What rpm is the rev limit set at? Stopping the party at 7k seems a bit conservative

I am going to make do without the swirl pot, should bleed up ok without it.

Ah. It was Rd 1 in France. I was thinking it was the British GT round

Neat. When is the new engine going to be sorted for the big rig? So jealous that you still have AC !

LOL, I know...but if you read how Frosty is doing it he is running a std high pressure cap on the radiator and no overflow after his header tank. I had not seen that method before