Roy

The latter is what I am familiar with. You put an atmo reservoir cap on the radiator and you run your 1.3bar cap on the swirl pot which is the highest point I guess I will have to put the in line swirl pot on my list of things to tack up for someone else to weld up for me Just isnt enough time and money with farging cars Scott...my understanding of why the Gibson R32 ran them is because they had lowered the radiator to fit the air intake above it. So they had to run a small to stop air pockets forming in what otherwise would have been high points in the engine. The Cossies run a larger one to boost capacity as they also run separate alloy coolers for just the turbo water line that goes from the turbo, to the cooler to the header tank

Here is another vid of the first session where I was sh1tting myself due to standing water and visor fogging up. I guess if you run an open wheeler you need to buy a good quality helmet

Again, big congrats on your time! Truly impressive and puts you amongst the fastest Skylines getting around. I know in 10 days time I wont be able to get near that time

So where do you pipe your overflow to when it gets hot ? Nowhere if I read correctly?

Since putting the plazmaman plenum on the car its a lot harder and time consuming to bleed properly. In the coming weeks I will be changing turbos a bunch of times meaning dropping coolant etc and CBF having to do time consuming bleeds each time. So looking to grab a Greddy Header tank and connect to a high point of back of block but also want to connect to the return line. Not stressed if I canf dins anything as I will be connecting to the top of the radiator...but the radiator isnt ideal due to the top tank shape This is what I am looking specifically for....though nozzles orientated for a Nissan

I am looking for a coolant swirl pot to go between my block and the radiator return. For the life of me I cant find anyone that makes one to suit Skylines. I thought maybe Sard or ARC do one but cant find anything. Those ARC ones I saw for other models suggest custom is better. Anyone have any ideas?

So with all the talk of E85 and oil compatability is anyone paying attention to the oils performance on the turbos at the boost people are running with E85? Seems more important for the EVO crowd who generally, like me are running bush bearing turbos

Some more video-audio from the last race. Not sure its all the radio calls. But you do get the feeling that the race was being run from the pit wall and not the drivers seats. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5y4-RH7eBr0 If you watch the race edit on the F1 site you hear the "Multi21 map Sebastian" call. I cant wait for the next GP. RBR normally go ok there and Seb has a good record so will be interesting to see how it pans out

Can people please quote their mph and 60ft times when talking qtr mile times...please

My cottons generally lower expectations as to my standard of driving

Where did you score the link from? I have been keeping an eye out on RFM and nothing yet.

The real question is how much boost will they need to make the numbers. I have not dismissed keeping the 20G and capping boost at 16-18si and making a meaty 300-320rwks. My fear is the 73HTA will need 26-30psi to make the numbers I am aiming for.

Well will see how this goes. I have high hopes but...lol I had high hopes for the 6boost manifold, Plazmaman plenum, ARC cooler ... lol anything I put on it is normally a step backwards And thanks for the message...was worth a try and will give this a nudge to see if I need to stress about finding a 10cm housing

Nobody uses RB74s from Race Brakes anymore. For spirited driving they are not bad things and are cheap. Dusty but they are quiet. If you get over half way through the pad and decide to drive like a lunatic on them they can deteriorate but takes track work really to get them that hot

Legend01 (Pete) sold me on their merits years ago. He was doing his 2.3L when I was first doing my Greddy setup. I always preferred the HKS manifold for having a straighter exhaust flow / keeping heat away from the looms / easier to make good heat shields for / slightly more subtle / and the only cracks they seem to get is in the web of the split pulse flange. With a black Turbosmart gate there is every chance that 90% of people wouldn't spot what is going on and the make engine bays look so clean. Tone down the bling and it all looks pretty std

Disco...stop stressing and just do it...

Based on the above I would be running Pagid RS29s

Have an R33 GTR rear end but need my new shocks back from revalving before it all goes in. Will likely be doing PIARC with std box. Its the only real original part still in the car

Epic pics Ben!

A related question. Has anyone gone from std to something like Splitfires and backed off plug gaps? Technically speaking the smaller the gap the less power? Is it possible to get an improvement or just a pipe dream?

Yeh, I only ask about strut brace as if the thing binds and you need to jack the car up to get the droop in the chassis right to bolt it up then you know the strut brace splays the chassis a little. If it aligns ok then it isnt doing anything unusual. I suppose the earlier questions do you feel there is more in the braking but you cant access it because this corner pinches or is it simply always the wheel that locks? A simple test could be to run the front right damper 3-4 clicks softer then the front left and see if it changes the tendency