Roy

Back on car at present...is 12 blade and guess its 2mm bigger than L2.

But strange thing is that this turbine doesnt match any of those. The T67 that I swapped housings with was the twin T67s that repalced the twin 20Gs on the same car and I wonder whether the turbines are specific to twin GTR setups!?!?! On the same dyno my car has if anything made the same power but with better reponse than the several L2s that have been tuned. I had bought an L2 based on what everyone had posted but after a few more RB20-20Gs rolled through my tuners workshop and we had compared results....well I sold my L2 to Kris for his drift car. So I wasnt convinced it flowed any better. Perhaps if an L2 fella ran E85 and we could see if they flowed better at 24psi and 300+rwkws

I tried to put my T67 10cm housing on my 20G over the weekend and guess what...it didnt fit. Its too small and hits the turbine. So tried the 10cm housing off the TD06H-25G I had and it swims. So it seems Trust run a different turbine again on their twin GTR setups as my20g is one of the pair off a friends R32 GTR Seems its somewhere between the L2and H. And I have seeb back to back TD06H-25G vs T67-25G and the T67 made 15-20rwkws less..all in the turbine it seems...was a rad laggier by 100-200rpm

The R32 is nothing compared to the scream of a 31 down the straight s

is it me or the promotion of the event was a little low key? There was nothing on OS websites....not a lot of local talk. I really only knew as my housemate was up their doing photography for a few sites/magazines. This should be one of the biggest things on the Aus calendar. Great cars, range of teams and budgets...good racing. Various classes. Looking forward to watching the highlights on SBS

Yeh, really looking forward to seeing what the AMGs look like. Combination of Kelly Racing not having Murphy in their ranks. rather horrible looking cars with ho-hum drivers well ... its no Farmer Fury in a DR30!

LOL, sorry. Was that too strongly worded? Sorry Trying to type fast before I get cauight playing on net vs working

Do they run the same core and bearings. materials etc as Trust turbos? Its like people that say you dont need to run coolant lines to the turbo even if they have them. I feel the designed built the turbo with the expectation that 90deg water temp woudl be flowing though the core so selected materials, tolerances etc to suit the coolant and the oil. My turbo has now done almost 70,000kms over 9 years and it was a second hand turbo off a friends 9sec Jap GTR. No problems with it. If you can get that sort of reliabbility ouot of them then AWESOME!

Eek...sorry to read/see you popped an engine Highly doubt its the cause but its never good going into Honda and popping the clutch to get it back to 2nd and pinning the revs. Best get plenty of practice on how to row back through the gears and in the future with a healthy engine its often over revs on down changes that take their toll on healthy engines

Can you message me your contact details. I need steering column trim, ignition barrel, fuse box covers etc

Good to see the power increase and the improvement in top end. Did the dyno or seat of the pants show a drop off in the mid range at all?

Yeh, its always a matter of factors. But the 3 biggest factors are tyres, track and E85...so car development is a far smaller variable. Take them off E85 and put them back on RE55s if you want a good indication of just how much the cars have really developed

Would be interesting. But I am simply slapping a 10cm housing on my setup because of the extra 400cc. Drop in back pressure will hopefully bag a few kws and help handle the extra 400cc. RB26 heads are designed around 2.6L, RB25 heads around 2.5L. They cope ok with an extra 400-500cc. Nothing wong with assuming that an RB20 couldnt handle an extra 300-400cc in displacement. I assume Nissan designed all engines around the same basic design targets for gas velocities, cylinder filling etc etc Similar thinking is why bother building any engine for the street...why not keep throwing std engines. RB25 makes more sense on the track then street due to legality issues. Not arguing just pointing out there are so many considerations and forums are good when you get the cross section of views so people make their own informed decision. LOL, I know whats been right for me with my car isnt right for other people.

Then you are a purist ... ... intending to use an R32 for a spear a spud comp on a farm

IMHO response and all thar fluff costs thousands and adds a few kws to the party. Just get a good spread of power and spend the thousands you have just saved on actually punting the car at the occassional track days This got it right on page 1 Only his reasoning for improved times is wrong It had more to do with the tech of tyres and change from RE55s to AO50s. The change from 98-100ROn to E85...those two factors alone mean there is no point comparing times...not to mention the final factor that tracks are being re-surfaces. Sandown is faster simply because of re-surfacing and now PI is >1.5seconds quicker due to re-surfacing. But to the core of the question. The things that increase response. Well everything is a compromise and trade off. But the main things are to reduce inertia so smaller lighter materials for things like turbo wheels, tailshaft, accessories on the front of the engine. Reponse comes from good culinder filling and gas velocity so as others have touched on dont go crazy big bore on inelt pipes and headwork. If you want Mines like response just put 2 stroke/rotary like gearing in your car and the need to swap gears every 2 seconds will have you thinking you are driving the most responsive car in the world But silly statement but raises the intersting point is to look at gearing and diff chanegs are an option. If you are talking engines then bin the head. Get an RB25 R33 or R34 head, put an built for purpose inlet manifold on the car and just jam fist fulls of boost into it

Why bother with an RB25 when you can throw in a Turbo Barra engine in? In some states engine swaps are easy, some are harder. If you actually race the car you need to sometimes keep the original block and or displacement. I am a hack driver who likes to cheat and unlike the other honset SAU folk who punt their GTSTs in Targa Tas who abide by the rules I would be running an RB24 in a heart beat if I ran my car in Targa. RB25 doesnt have a tunable ecu. So means more money for a PFC and loom changes etc. Not the end of the world but a consideration. I have seen the results of a few RB24s and they all stack up amazingly well. So RB25s do a good job of making pwer. So do RB26s., 28s, 30s etc. But the whole throw away RB20 if you have an R32 series platform makes about as much sense as telling people to throw away their SR20s if they have an S13/14 platform. With a leaking headgasket I will put my RB20 up against a similarily turbo'd RB25 and you know what....they wont leave me for dead. Spending more than 3.5k doing a NEO swap in an RB20 is lunacy to me. You mentioned you are running std turbo and what 180-200rwkws. That boggles my mind when for a turbo install you can be rocking 260-280rwkws reliably and you will never worry about a power upgrade. You will be too busy trackign your car having giggles. I have had my car for 13 years so when I chase power its as much our of curiosity and boredom as it is for more power. Oh, and my car is so desirable and full of RB20 awesomeness some maggot, scumbag carnt tried to steal it yesterday. Almost got it too if not for neighbour stopping them

So actually trying to answer your questions... How well do stock rb26 rods hold up? Fine.They are good things. If you need to get them re-sized, balanced with rod bolts then something like Eagles start to look good and are equally as good. I think they are a few grams lighter than RB26 rods which is also a good thing Whats a good compression ratio for it? I know turbo motors don't like alot of compression unlike N/A cars. If you are going E85 I woudl entertain the idea of 9.0:1, if pump then stick with 8.5:1. On E85 people like to run evern more compression then 9.0:1 but I woudl be rather be cautious and build somrthing that trades a bit of reponse for reliability Whats a good turbo to run? I was told a 35R turbo would be the way to go. Almost every RB24 kit you see in japan runs a T67-25G or a TD06-25G. I personally would go for a PF 76HTA based turbo with a GT30 turbine or TD06 turbine would be a nice punchy thing And whats a good LSD. I run a 1.5KAAZ...seems fine. Have never busted a shaft or diff etc. Some people upgrade to stronger drive shafts of RB26 but until you start popping them I wouldnt bother as it just makes the car heavier. And for those hating the idea of an RB24. It does have merits why it would be a better thing than an RB25. Consider longer stroke of RB26 but with far smaller lighter pistons. Should give it good balance of rev and torque and ability to pull big revs with greatly rediced bottom end loads. The fact that they have smaller inlet runners and valves etc is a restriction if you are chasing epic power. But the flip side is they give you higher velocities and better atoimisation of fuel in the mid range and give sharper torque and response. The beauty of turbo cars...if you want tmore power you just run more boost and better fuel. I know there is nothing really wrong with the std RB20 head at 310rwkws. Only takes 22-23psi to make that power and thats pulling 8,500rpm with std cams, valve springs...just with a tiny 8cm housing and a Plazmaman inlet. At the moment the restriction on my setup is the little 8cm housing. With a bit more compression, a tighter new engine instead of an unknown wrecker engine + 60,000kms then you woudl expect to be able to get away with a 10cm rear housing and by eliminating the exhuast restriction could throw a slightly bigger compressor on it and you woudl be starting down the barrel of a good, strong 350rwks setup that has a bottom end far stronger than any other RB engine I dont hear people saying SR20s cant flow enough for decent power and they need cams/springs etc to even make 300rwkws. A std RB20 head flows that a peice of piss and people say its no good. 5 years ago before E85 perhaps the cylinder pressures and temperatures woudl have been an issue....but these days E85 is a pretty good bandaid. An Rb25 would be pushing a load more air through so at this time if you threw in some nice high lift cams you will probably bet getting 65% of where you need to be with regards to getting a better flowing "air pump"

Its been said before. People who put RB25s in their R32 GTSt are the sort of people who will sleep with their mate's wife because she is easy. If you throw an RB26/28/DOHC 30 etc it's just as bad but you can at least justify it to yourself by saying she is hot and the best bit of tail getting around.

Dont they run KERS

I am keen to see Kay's work at STR. His work at FI and Sauber puts him in the top 3 engineers in the game (imo)

Along with my mates blue R32 GTR in Sydney this GTR goes down in the history books as being "TOUGH"...Just plain old tough. Looked tough, souned tough, stance ... tough. Good to see it is making a comeback!

I was walking the car off the line with about 3, 000rpm and was a long way from a launch as I was protecting my clutch and gearbox. Even with 2.3-2.5 60ft times I was still running between 12.9 and 13.5 with 234rwkws from a torqueless RB20. My car is 1335kg plus driver with 15l of fuel. Why are so many cars with 250rwkws in the mid 14s? Is it the way they make power or torque falls off?!?!?

That Sauber is the best looking car the grid has seen for years! I half suspect Hulk will make Esteban look slower than he really is. The guy seems to have a good turn of speed

That is a great looking car