Roy

lol, if you want cheap and goodv i have a new kando td05h-18g...will make the power you are after and be pretty mega respoinsive. you just need to buy bthe exhaust housing fo $150 and you have a $600 brand new turbo to givev fabricator to mount gate on housinhg

Just keep in mind the shafts are a different diameter, so different bearings, cartridge etc etc and of course different hub diameter on your compressor

I know the difference in Trust/Greddy speak Others are the ones getting confused You are right. In Greddy /Trust speak the T67-25G is in Kando speak a TD06SL2 25G I mentioned TD06H turbine on the bigger FP HTA compressors as they need the bigger turbines for the added torque to spin the compressor . Stao commented. I was pointing out we are talking about different things. My TD06H was the bigger diameter turbine with different diam shaft and different number of blades TD06H. I am not sure what back cut wheel he is thinking about . I have a bigger than 73HTA "Roy Spec" TD06H thing for my stroker to go on in after i cut laps around Albert Park at the Aus GP. That will scare 400rwkws on E85 without any lame ass need for lame ass RB25 But first lets see tyres blazing from the 73HTA

Not what what I meant. Different people call teh different wheels different things. What is the difference between the Greddy T67-25G and the Greddy TD06H-25G ? TD06H A T67-25G (on the left) Its not simply a cropped wheel. Its 11 blade vs 12 blade and the 12 blade TD06H isd actually a bigger diameter turbine. Thats why the T67-25G exhaust housing doesnt bolt on to the TD06H-20G Or soem better photos I have taken TD06H L2 Turbine Side by side 25G Compressor 73HTA Compressor And this is what happens when you put the TD06H housing on the L2

They do a range ot Evo based turbos, STI based turbos, Garret based turbos and Hi-Flow turbos....their range of 55, 65, 68, 71, 73, 76, 82, 86, 105mm wheels..I cant imagine to know the combos of turbiones and compressorss they offer and have tried and wont offer. The R32 is right behind the Cossie rebuild whcih shoudl be getting puched out this weekend and in for tune/run in next week. The R32 is right behind it for a tune

RB25s arent for me! But like all billet wheels the shank is way smaller so combined with the 5mm bigger compressor and blade design it flows way more. They make 320-340awkws on EVOs in the US on pump fuel with about the same if not better response than 20G. They do a bigger compressor bersion around 76mm but they dont use the L2 turbone for that...they go the TD06H

Uncle Duncan...I think you are missing the point. If you have 1 million to sink into something then I am guessing you invest plenty of other cash in beer, coke and hookers. Have tarmac rally cars, a Carrera Cup car. Do whatever the hell you want most of the time that you are not stressing and busting your ass doing what got you the cash to blow in the first place. What I cant excuse is wanting an R35! I thought you were better then that

LOL, I have a 73HTA TD06L2

But you would if you could (had the means) Sure as sh1t not what I would build, but good on em for just going bonkers

Dontchop up that manifold...just get a 6boost. I will buy your manu off you as I am looking for one at the mo

The car is an absolute credit to him and those that had input. For me you measure cars against themselves, not the others. Sure the entrants and competitors can shoot for each others times and be competitive but from the comfort of my desk behind my PC its not right to judge the pace of any of the cars. Unless they are an EVO then they are just so easy to drive that my 5yr old nephew woudl give outright a nudge . Hell I have been trying to rebuild and semi restore my Cossie the past 9 months and jsut cant find the time and I am single. Time is hard to come by

So 20g is molded std manifold and HG is with an exhaust manifold? Using a phoenix to look at graphs is hard

He had sorted his starts by 2/3 mark . He actualy held and made positions the last handful of GPs Well, except that one and maybe another

I punted a caged Swift in anger. Once used to the horrible seating position it was an amazing little car to drive. Very controllable and responsive chassis.

Those Mines dumps look to be a copy of the Nismo R34 dumps. What diam are they? Great build by the way...AP brakes on a white GTR - AWESOME

Aren't you simply running moire boost so jump in mid range and power kind of expected?

They have wiped their hands of it as they cant afford it either after hosting and busting ass in 2012. Its Ring or no go. Sachsenring etc etc and other German circuits dont have the money or interest to host the round!

Apart from R31 house is there anywhere in Japan you can shop for R31s (or DR30s for that matter) that are not complete garbage that need basically a full restore?

Bernie is a rat! Seriously. When Germany pulls the pin on GP due to Financial concerns, how far behind can be all the other Euro rounds! 18 rounds this year by the looks of it. I am pissed off as I was tossing up between a mid year trip for a few track days and the German GP or trip to Japan....looks liek decision is made for me German manufacturer...god knows how many German drivers, German WDC and looks like no race. But lets keep Korea, China, Sandville etc

loL, its just that when I have driven other peoples cars and I have hated the dead pedal feel they usually tell me they have EBC pads John, I would be interested in driving your car to try the Blues. Some reviews of them on EVOs ad R35s were not favourable...perhaps on a slightly lighter car they may be ok

PFc. for the price you can buy them you can either have two Pfcs or the software to tune one to dump a tune into it. Both cheaper than the local ECU option by the time its installed , tuned and have sensors etc. Well at least thats what I have done

Surely an RB25 at ~250rwkws, which would be rather tractable power at that level could bag an EASY 115mph given an R33-34 weight and a 2.4sec 60ft time? I know I ranged between 112-114mphfor my 13.4-12.9 runs with a 234rwk. Difference was the 2.4 and 2.2 60ft times

Provided the silicon hoses are reinforced, doesnt need to be steel but at least with some fibre core than they will out do and perform rubber hoses. Where they are weak and prone to problems is rough hands can damage them very easily and small cuts and nics seem to easily propogate into splits. So dont use screw drivers to lever clamps on and off. Make sure they dont rub against any sharp edges during install and the hose clamps have rounded sealing edges. When they split early in their life its usually because they were damage by screwdrivers when being installed by Barney Rubble or someone like me Rubber is far more ductile it seems and takes abrasion a lot better