Roy

Yeh, stupid wanker ministers trying to get votes of old farts. Do they realise they are hanging themselves saying it costs "oooh sooo much" after they and their lacky fool colleagues have signed the deals !!! Give them time they will lose the GP, close PI, Sandown and Winton and then the place will have nothing but overpriced pubs where you can't even get a schooner for less than $7.00...and punks wearing $130 singlets and American Idol haircuts! Fark Vic shits me at times !

Which twins did Kando the great sprout out? T67s?

What was your 60ft? With worn semi slicks and circuit spec Bilsteins I ran a 12.9 @114mph with a 2.2 60ft with about 234rwkws. I didnt launch the car hard as was worried about std RB20 box. Just ride the clutch and touch the limiter in 1st if you are getting wheelspin and shift smoothly, not snatching or you just rip skids LOL, thats my advice having done all of about 10 qtr mile runs in my life (oh my car weighed 1345kgs with 10L of fuel in it at PI weighbridge)

So how is the build going?

Hey that is at turn 1 at Zandvoort. I love that corner....great for the late, late brakers. One day I will end up in the sand trap Epic 32! What revs do you pin the 3.2L to?

Dont be so quick to judge http://www.skylinesa...ttach_id=261913 The above runs Alcon Mono6 calipers on 365mm rotors with 18x9.5 BBS LM rims. Also as Nick says he runs APs 6 pots on 355mm with no problems with only 9" rims

LOL...edited to my speak

But comapring a freshly built 4cyl 2L with a used std RB20 is probably not going to shed much light on how it will go. Show me the difference between the SS1 and SS1PU and that may shed more light

Food for thought. I still dont think any turbo works well on an RB20 with std manifold. SR20 only has to worry about pumping pulses from 4 cylinders not 6 so not as big a compromise with 500cc of gases fighting down a 4cyl manifold vs 333cc down a 6cyl manifold with regards to the energy that is left to spin a turbine Also people say SR20s pins turbos harder than RB20s so ?!?!!? And your dyno is DD so if use my DD numbers (bigassumption that two different dynos in different states are similar) then it looks more like below. And that is with a track tune that iteself is down ~15rwkws of what it made with more ignition on what you can run with a street tune without having to worry about 100deg water temps and 130 oil temps. Same boost though LOL, its interesting whilst hard to compare merits of turbos from different cars tuned by different people on different dynos. Going on what I have seen on RB20s, hi-flows dont generally give you a good compromise of grunt and response. Often its the response of bigger turbos with marginal improvements in grunt. Silly RB20s are sensitive things when you try to put turbos on std manifolds. If Hypergear can build you a ball bearing GT0SS T3 equiv then thats what I would be doing for the power level you are after. Small turbo and spin the thing hard

I know my car has a manifold but it also has a clunky TD06-20G and comparing my thing at 4,000rpm, 5,000rpm & 6,000rpm it doesnt look that great a turbo. RPM______TD06__Hypergear 4,000______ 135____125 5,000______228____205 6,000______245____225 My numbers are off a Mainline Dyno that people claim read low. I know it read about 15rwkws lower then where my car got tuned. I argue that std manifolds are sh1t even at this power level but everyone in this thread tells me I am wrong. I still belive it but spells out you may as well spend the extra 1K on the manifold and have a 260rwkws setup with better reponse then a hi-flow on the std manifold

I am yet to see any hi-flow turbos work really well on an RB20. Perhaps the Hypergears are different?!?! I have not really seen any results in his thread or on forums. I would not go with a TD05H 20G myself. I run the TD06-20G and they are good for about 260-270 on a std RB20 on 98-100 RON fuel. When I switched to E85 I was able to make 310rwkws with the 20G. I also have a spare TD05H-18G Kando that I had planned to back to back against the 20G. My expectation was it would only lose 15-20rwkws but have far nicer transient response losing some of the "big turbo" feel the 20G gave the RB20. I subsequently spent too much money on holidays and booz and have not been able to trial the other turbos on my RB20 so if you are keen for a Kando TD05H-18G then I have one you can buy without the rear housing. In my mind I always thought they would be an almost 2530 like turbo just with the extra 15-20rwkws that 2530 couldnt quite give

A better example of 3L is the old DAMN Supra by ICE Performance in Melbourne. It ran twin TD06-20G with 8cm housings

LOL, man it was 2002. Pretty sure it was Dyno Dynamics as the thing got around RIc Shaw and CRD back in the day and pretty sure they DD

Brawn isnt going anywhere. Perhaps a bit more support for him but he isnt going anywhere. Another case of F1 media making things up as they are bored in the off season

Just plain old TD06 turbine. When he went T67 it left him with TD06 laying around one of which found its way on to my RB20. That's why at first I ran a 10xmas housings as its what it came off with. I then upgraded kinetic to an 8cm

An ASUS home gateway is coming your way today. been struggling to get away from work to allow me to post the thing

Animal. A friend ran twin 20g with 10cm housings before going T67s. He made 600rwkws on race fuel back in 2002 o a 2.7L Trust bottom end

Hi Brad...still doing the rear HICAS kits like what you did for Pete on his R32? I have an R33 box and R33 GTR rear end about to go in my bus and much prefer your design then std HICAS lock bars http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=292614 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=292620

Bene there and tried it. Spent almost 2 months waiting for it all to be trial fitted and played with and was a no goer due to steering arms/tue road end locations all being screwed up with horrible results in bump steer. The thing is barely lighter so just scrapped the idea of having allow hubs all round

Years ago I read an interestintg white paper on defence and a 5o year view of our region. It sighted a strong local car manufacturing industry as a requirement for the security of the country. Seemed strange but they claim in the event of conflict a strong automotive industry is seen as the backbone oif industry that will be able to quickly migrate to manfcature of defence equip and weapons. The technology, thetraining ans skills and the factories themselves. I thought it was a little old fashioned to read such a thing but I suppose in a time of conflict a country like Australia that is rather isolated and with strong minerals waleth...well it makes sense that governments may see the industry as a critical backbone to a developed society that is autonomous.

Ash...read up on German car industry and cost of labour and unions. There is far more to the discussion then blaming labour rates and unions. Fark open markets and I am all for tariffs to protect local industries and jobs.GM were wanting to use te Holden designed rwd platforms globally due to the low price top engineer the platform and quality of the output. But as always as other markets open up it is going to be hard to compete with factories in east Europe, South America, South Africa etc. The reason why they will be shut down is because fat cats can turn a a better dollar doing something elsewhere and charge consumers the same...Notheing about being too expensive to make here...

Good work for a drunken Irish sailor

Was sad to see Webber lose his engineer. I hope the new combo works well for him. Its a huge thing to have a good engineer that you work well with

1" runners is damn small! Also, when at the track I always let the car idle up good and proper which gets heat through everything in the engine bay and spend the first two laps gradually building loads and revs as I warm up tyres and brakes. The thermal shock things get when you blast them from near cold with 800deg C exhaust gases until they glow red and then shut it down to click and tick itself cold...is never going to be good . Even if thats not the source of your problems it is a good practice on a car that is tracked

Yep, its an SR20!