xsv_32

Had a read through this build, and my jaw just continued to drop further and further the more I read. Well done mate, car looks amazing! Could you please tell me what the carbon radiator panel is and where to get it from? Really tidies up the front when the bonnet is up! Cheers

Group A/Bathurst style oil separator I am looking to replicate the oil / air separator, but despite googling and searching through forums I cant find any info on what is inside the circle box that sits over the rocker covers. Secondly, can anyone confirm where the highlighted hose runs to? Lastly, the final catch can that sits behind the driver headlight does not seem to have a filter/breather. Does this also drain to the sump? Any tips or advice would be great!

Hey all, have bought a Borg Warner S366 turbo with a .91ar exhaust housing for my RB30DET. Im just wondering if anyone on the forum has one on there car. Would love to hear of power/boost results and what response is like. Appreciate your opinions etc. Hopefully it isnt too laggy!

Another thing to consider would be the compression ratio ie head gasket thickness. The thick gaskets will drop compression, allow more boost but less response...

World record is now 7.86 by the rips 240

Hi, check out these guys up in Rotorua. http://www.ripsltd.com/movies/7.86%20second%20pass.html Go the Rips Ltd Lads.

I used the factory one off my rb20de block and lined up fine, but had to use a 3 groove belt to fit on the pump as the crank pulley was a four groove. Other than that was a simple hack saw cut and bobs your uncle.

A mate of mine uses his car for the same, daily driving and the occasional sideways activities... He uses a 30/76 and makes some good figures without losing much down low..

Go for the big single, you cant pass up that sound of spooling. You may lose a bit of drivability but when boost hits you'll know about it.

Yup i agree, if you can afford it go forged. Use Arp bolts on your rods and decent bearings for the crank to be on the safe side. Factory cranks are pretty bulletproof and you could even get away with possibly shot peening the factory rods. With a strong bottom end you can keep upgrading the bolt on bits till it scares the s**t out of you daily lol. I dont think nos is necessary with the increase in torque but again if its in your budget, why not try it out? Make sure to post up on your progress as im in the middle of the same process!

Mint. Thanks for that, the guy i bought the hear off has left white marks that look like th 15 degrees. Will clean them off and see if theres a mark underneath them. One last thing, my head gasket is for a GTR, 87mm bore and 1.3mm thick. Everything lined up except for the triangle shaped water galleries between each cylinder on the intake side. the gasket has circles instead but dont think this will efect anything.????

Mint i think so. So those cam positions are for 1TDC? Are there any marks on the backing plate to look for? Thanks.

Finally got the R32 25de head back from Cylinder Head Specialists and its almost time to put it onto the block. BUT it's not at 1tdc and I dont have a workshop manual. Does anyone have a link or an answer to setting the shafts plus angle sensor up correctly? I know the timing is about 15 degrees before tdc on idle but its not ready to start yet and i dont want any bent valves or teeth marks in this pistons! Any help would be awesome. Cheers in advance. xsv_32

Hi all, was recently reading through the post about the 1002hp GTT recently tuned and found out that there seem to be two different ways of measuring torque but yet both read in Nm?!? I was browsing trademe and found this auction where a guy here in CHCH New Zealand builds RB30s and sells the motors online. Now, the auction states he can build anything from mild set-ups with factory pistons etc or something more aggressive like his s15 running mid 700hp. BUT the tourque for such motors outs over 2000Nm! Previous auctions of his show dyno sheets of these figures but after reading the above mentioned thread, im curious as to how these readings differ to those of the monster 1000hp GTT? Anyone info would be great - just want to expand my brain a little more lol. Here is the link if you want to check it out for yourselves. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-183775348.htm

V bands keep it simple, you dont have to mess round with nuts and bolts gaskets and make it quicker to remove/fit.

Ive relocated the tensioner as per the famous RB30 pdf. But im having trouble tapping the thread . Any tips? Bought a 8.6mm drill bit as advised to tap a 1.5x10mm hole but cant get the thread started! Any help would be great.

Lol mine isnt going yet either so at the moment my favourite thing is bragging rights to my other mate rebuilding his 25 . Secondly is the anticipation of getting it goin cos of all the stories about lighting up the rears in 3rd in fourth etc. Cant wait!!

Awesome , cheers for that. I think il run th factory gauge and then just the gauges off the sandwich plate. Using a N1 pump anyone know what sort of oil pressure i should be running?

Hi all, im about to put the head onto my 30 and i need to sort all of the bottom end stuff before i end up having to squeeze past manifolds to do so. Anywho, Im running a front mounted oil cooler which looks like the pic below at the block end. Now, the sandwhich plate provides an easy and simple way to tap into your oil flow to run gauges, so what do i do with the factory sensor? Can i block it with a bolt? Im not fussed if the factory oil gauge in the cluster doesnt go but without it will my oil light stay on? And last but not least, where does the factory sensor thread into the block? Any advice would be mint. Cheers

I bought my set the other week and im not too sure on this but do you use the allen key at the top of each stud to put them into the block and then torque them up or just leave them hand tight and do all the torqing from the top end once the head is on? May sound stupid but I dont want to f**k this up!!

Right... I have an R32 coupe that was originally a auto. Now its manual, with an RB30DET and RB30 gearbox. The cable in the auto setup snapped and killed my powersteering so I want to know, is which cable can I use that will match the RB30 (VL commy) gearbox and still match the R32 cluster. Also will an automatic cable work on a manual box? Secondly which clutch line can be used? Are cefiro/skyline/laurel all the same? Any advice would be awesome. Cheers, xsv_32

Was browsing trademe the other day and saw a set of R32 adjustable traction arms for sale. Ive been searching a bit but cant find a discription on what they link from and to and how they work when you adjust them? Any info would be cool as im aiming for a big hp streeter and dont want to spend all my time trying to find grip!

Take some pics of your gauges and upload them. I need some inspiration as to what I want for my 32 coupe!! Shift lights tachos boost oil water afr fuel press watever just post up and show off your shit!

Umm not a measured thing, but the difference is noticeable by eye...

I got two tomei restrictors and fitted them to the block and they are a crush fit item so i was expecting some excess metal but once they were in the holes seem to be burred over a little so that they appear smaller than before i fitted them. Did i f**k it up or do they do this normally? Shoud a try deburr the holes or remove them? ANy advice would be awesome.