xsv_32

What an awesome thread! I thought that 10 page pdf was impressive but damn! Im building an rb30/25 and have got the block almost ready to put into my 32 coupe. The parts used in the block are as folows: -Rb30e block -Factory crank (re balanced) -Wiseco forged pistons (40thou oversized) -Forged eagle rods -N1 oil pump -ACL race bearings (big ends and mains) -ARP bolts The block was honed bored decked and acid dipped and now is back in my possession. Ive bolted up the mounts, sump, water pump and flywheel and it is about to go into the car. BUT only recently ive heard i should restrict the oil flow to the head using TOMEI gallery restrictors so the blocks oil isnt pumped all to the head. Is this a necessary and recommended mod? My next querie is will I need to replace the factory rb25de valve springs to cope with big boost? With the block ready to make mumbo i dont want the head to restrict me too much! Any tips would be awesome Cheers xsv 32

Manual all the way.

A workmate of mine just had his tuned and came up with 290hp at the wheels. He uses a t3t4 (garrett to4e) and the only thing letting him down was the factory injectors... This was on 15psi and the turbo has plenty to give and responds and spools well. They are good for around the 400hp mark so that would be my bet.

yeh should check the afm, throttle cable and the tps. If none of those shed any light, take it to an auto sparky and just ask for some more suggestions on wat u should do.

I recently discovered that the rb25det greddy style plenum wont fit the head im using for my rb30det project... Could someone advise me as to wether the rb25de intakes vary between r32 and 33? It has 86mm combustion chambers so its definately a 25, but i need to know how i can distinguish what it came from. Which ever the result is, what intake can i run without having to cut up my bonnet? (as rb30 blocks are a bigger stroke they're taller) Or is custom my only option if i want the gtr style plenum. I will be running considerable boost pressures so will the factory valve springs cope at all? Any help would be great... James

Im putting the block together and im going to torque up the flywheel. How tight should it be? And should i use loctite? Also, when tightening how do i brace the crank without just tightening the front crank bolt? Lastly, should i tighten in opposites... (As in when you put a wheel on.) Any advice would be great. THanks, xsv32

Im building an RB30det at the moment and after talking to a mechanic he assured me that i need to restrict the oil flow to the head so i dont starve the block of its oil. He told me that tomei make oil gallery orifices to stop this but id thought id slap a post up and get some opinions or a better way to do it? Anything would be apprieciated. Thanks, xsv32

Im nearing the completion of my rb30det and im coming up tight on funds trying to finish it and get the car on the road. What i want to know is will the rb25det headstuds that came with the head ok to re use? Or should i save up a bit more and get some arp studs. Im running a set up to make some decent horsepower so will the factory items do alright? Any advice would be helpful. Thanks, xsv32

Here are some photos, are there any ways of determining wat head this is? 20,25 de/det?

Umm measured the combustion diameters, 86mm. My workmate suggested there could be a difference between th s1 and s2 heads. Ive taken some photos but cant upload them jst yet. It also has the oil passage for the vct...

One of the first things i bought for rb30det project was the head. I bought a greddy replica intake plenum as i just cant afford the genuine item It arrived and i put aside till i wanted to fit it. I went to bolt it up to the head but the 2 or 3 locating studs dont line up, by a long shot. There a 3 studs, the top front and rear and the third is one in the middle. If i pick one to line up the other either misses the hole or the stud goes into the plenum runner! its as if the plenum is too long for the head. Ive never heard of these plenums not lining up so i have to wonder if the head is actually a rb20 and ive been shafted royally. Yet the high mount exhaust manifold lines up sweet, but is made for 25 heads only. Please give me some advice>!!!

I have in possession a s1 rb25det head, and i want to no what sort of gains can be expected from getting the camshafts ground to a more 'lumpy' profile? Im going to be using adjustable cam gears regardless but is it worth the money? I want to use the car for drag/street and am aiming for 550+hp using a rb30 set up, and i love the lumpy cam idle sound of high strung rbs, but i cant get a straight answer as to wether duration or lift is what will suit my needs. Any ideas or suggestions will be appreciated. xsv_32

Im buildin an rb30det and ive got an rb25 head, and i have been told its a series one as it didnt have vvl solenoid thingy on the exhaust camgear. Does this mean no mods to the oil gallery and how good are the s2 heads in comparrison to the others? The block is fully forged and the bolton stuff sized to make some decent mumbo, will the factory head hold me back or should i look into port matching/polishing etc.... Any ideas or advice would be appriciated

Im currently building a RB25/30det for my r32 and have finally paid for the block and now im focusing on getting the head on and the motor ready to bolt all the hardware to... Im intending to buy an arp headstud kit but recently saw a photo of a rb25 block with the studs protruding from the deck, eg backwards to the usual head bolts. My question is how are the fitted and what is the reason for them fitted like this>? Also im looking for a good steel head gasket to use, to fit 40thou oversized pistons and make around 9:1 compression. Any suggestions apprieciated. Thanks xsv_32

Try checking your coils and plugs, and leave the coil cover off to help keep them cooler. Its a common problem with the rb engines which is why some people now run wastespark.

Cool Thanks 4 the advice

Currently im building and r32 coupe with an rb30det. The block is forged and complete, and only have a few things left to sort. But at the moment fuel set up is whats next on my list. I have a Bosch 044 external pump rated at 700hp, a fpr, gtst rail and 670cc injectors. I want to buy a surge tank but will the factory 20de lift pump keep up with the bosch's mumbo? And how good are the gtst rails? P.S My goal is 500+hp atw, any advice-info would be great.

Its basically a steering system for your rear wheels, can be locked or removed or replaced with the non hicas rear subframe. Its not something you want if you want to start drifting...

I agree, that sort of power takes a fair amount of money.... For a more affordable option, upgrade to a something like a t04e turbo and a fuel system to match eg: 500hp in tank pump and bigger injectors so you dont go leaning out your motor. To top it off something like an apexi computer will do you a world of good providing the tune is done well.

hey im new to the forum and am currently building an r32 coupe with an rb30 conversion. The block is finally complete with forged rods and pistions, race bearings, polished crank and a N1 GTR oil pump. I have in my possession a rb25det head and want to know once the vct gallery is blocked, what is the best way to externally feed and return oil and where>? also any information on what steel gaskets are good to use... possibly copper ive heard also. Thanks.