nm8u

Hay guys and gals, i have brand new only 2 weeks old BC -BR coilovers to suit a r33 skyline, they are black in colour and are in perfect condition, the reason im selling them is i have traded the car in and the coilovers are new so i pulled them out, i also have a set of bucket seats that i want to get rid of they are autotecnica seats perfect condition as well, $1200 for both seats and coil overs or just 1000 for the coilovers. if u are interested 0433497473 i live in perth wa In ridgewood (up clarkson way for u perth people.)

Hay mate i have just bought some of these bc coilovers they sound pritty good reasonable priced as well with a years warrenty ill let u no how they go to,

thanks for your time bro

hay guys i was wondering does a normal r33 skyline rear bar fit straight onto a 4 door r 33 series 2 i want one but im not sure whether i need a special one or not. thatks guys.

hay guys sorry i didnt reply earlier. my bad. i got these long wheel studs from auto 1 they had longer ones for the car in a book they had there. the guys matched the patterns and they are 74 mm rather than the original 45 mm. they really good. they are about 13 dollars for one thats the only down side. sorry no photos for the walk through. sorry. hope that helps. later

thanks mate ill check it out. ill let you guys no how i go as well. cheers.

good job bro im a spray painter and it looks very professional. well done.

hay guys, i bought a new trial front bar off ebay. i was wondering whether anyone knows what front indercaters to use. i heard that some navara brand ones fit but does any one know codes or anything so i can get one ordered in or something. some help would be great. thanks champs.

hey dude i couldnt be bothered to read what anyone else wrote but i bought the geniun ones for mine. they are heitachi brand pritty expensive to. but dude they are awesome. car stops on a coin. really happy with them. that also could be a option when changing pads. later man.

hay guys. bought a r33 series 2 4 door skyline, so buying that also means i had to join this forum cause it rocks. its really helpful and worth the reading material. cheers guys keep a look out for what i post.

Hay guys, i changed my wheel studs today. i didnt realise that it would be so easy. i went to a few shops and they wanted about 60 dollars a stud to change over for me so basically i thought that was a jok so i will write step by step how to do it it took me about 20 mins each wheel to change them all up about a hour. i also ran into a problem when changing them. i dropped my caliper which snapped a brake line. doh. lucky for me the shops were close so could get another one made which was really good. that took about 2 hours in driving round but anyways. Real easy to do. step 1 Take the rim off step 2 Undo the caliper. Two bolts at the back of it are all it takes to come off they are about a 17 mm i think. step 3 There is a small part of steel which contects the brake line to the caliper. Thats what i broke and had to have changed. Remove it so you dont brake it. Its pritty easy to brake so be careful. Remove it it is a 10 mm screw on both ends of it. Brake fluid comes out but dont worry bout that not much comes out. step 4 Take the caliper off the disc now. real easy it just slides off. step 5 Get the disc off. that is also real easy. there are two holes on the disc that you can screw the appropiate bolt into keep going and it just falls off. step 6 Now to the fun part with the disc off you can see the studs now i got new ones so i just smashed these original ones out. There is a place where you rotate them to hit out. Just hit the one that has the grove for it to come out. step 7 Once they are all out. put the new ones in they will be lose dont worry bout that cause they pull themself into position when you tighten them. step 8 Now put the disc over the studs that are lose and put the brake caliper back 0n and tighten everything up again. the studs will still be lose. now that everything is were it should be, put the new nuts you get with the studs on and start tightening them. when you tighten them they pull themselves into position and make there own groves in the hub. they really cut into it if you like. after they are tight take them off. you may need some one to stand on the brake while doing this so they dont move. by the way you might want to top up your brake fluid or bleed the brakes if you want to i did.cause of when you took the pipe off. step 9 Now the studs are all tight put your wheel on, now what happens is you feel like you are stripping the bolt but your not. if you didnt get them tight enough they will still pull into position when puting the rims on so keep tighting them till they stop. thats it like i said it took 20 mins a side part from braking one of those lines i was talking bout real easy i saved a heap of cash dont be scared of doing it yourself. Cheers guys i hope this can help others. --------------------

hay guys, the wheel studs i have i got from auto one. they are high tensile steel really good quality they costed $13 a stud they came with nuts on them because they so long it was not a closed in nut which was really good. i got a total of 10 studs so i got them for 10 bucks each. im not sure what brand they are. hay dude i cant see why u would need to cut the stud mine were 75mm and fitted with ease. did u change the back ones. i also took the brake caliper off so i wouldnt brake it you dont have to but i did cause it was a big hassel to get the hose i broke.

Hay guys, i changed my wheel studs today. i didnt realise that it would be so easy. i went to a few shops and they wanted about 60 dollars a stud to change over for me so basically i thought that was a jok so i will write step by step how to do it it took me about 20 mins each wheel to change them all up about a hour. i also ran into a problem when changing them. i dropped my caliper which snapped a brake line. doh. lucky for me the shops were close so could get another one made which was really good. that took about 2 hours in driving round but anyways. Real easy to do. step 1 Take the rim off step 2 Undo the caliper. Two bolts at the back of it are all it takes to come off they are about a 17 mm i think. step 3 There is a small part of steel which contects the brake line to the caliper. Thats what i broke and had to have changed. Remove it so you dont brake it. Its pritty easy to brake so be careful. Remove it it is a 10 mm screw on both ends of it. Brake fluid comes out but dont worry bout that not much comes out. step 4 Take the caliper off the disc now. real easy it just slides off. step 5 Get the disc off. that is also real easy. there are two holes on the disc that you can screw the appropiate bolt into keep going and it just falls off. step 6 Now to the fun part with the disc off you can see the studs now i got new ones so i just smashed these original ones out. There is a place where you rotate them to hit out. Just hit the one that has the grove for it to come out. step 7 Once they are all out. put the new ones in they will be lose dont worry bout that cause they pull themself into position when you tighten them. step 8 Now put the disc over the studs that are lose and put the brake caliper back 0n and tighten everything up again. the studs will still be lose. now that everything is were it should be, put the new nuts you get with the studs on and start tightening them. when you tighten them they pull themselves into position and make there own groves in the hub. they really cut into it if you like. after they are tight take them off. you may need some one to stand on the brake while doing this so they dont move. by the way you might want to top up your brake fluid or bleed the brakes if you want to i did.cause of when you took the pipe off. step 9 Now the studs are all tight put your wheel on, now what happens is you feel like you are stripping the bolt but your not. if you didnt get them tight enough they will still pull into position when puting the rims on so keep tighting them till they stop. thats it like i said it took 20 mins a side part from braking one of those lines i was talking bout real easy i saved a heap of cash dont be scared of doing it yourself. Cheers guys i hope this can help others. later

thanks guys i was wondering cause they are longer wheel studs then the stock ones, i think the stock ones are around 45 mm the new ones i have are arond 75mm will they be hard to get them in the small gap at the back or is the gap at the back big. cheers

hay guys i am changing my front wheel studs to suit some new rims i bougt i have a r33 series 2 4 door. is it hard to do any tutorials and pics that can help me. cheers

hay man i have the same car but im guessing yours is auto mine is a factory manual series 2 which are pritty rare im told. its got full exhaust no cat, fmic {1000 hp rated} pod it put out atw 165kw before the full exhaust and cooler so i am keen to see wHAT IT HAS NOW. i hope around 255 or more hp dont no ill have to find out. it was also not on shootout mode i found out later. any way cheers. nm8u.