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Im using my setup on my daily run around. There doesnt seem to be any problem once the engine is over 1200rpm, plus I get decent fuel economy too. As for dyno figures, the difference between fully sequential and semi sequential is hardly a concern, as the engine is at such high RPM and rich AFRs anyways. Having full sequential control over the injection timing can help to run closer to stoich AFRs at idle while still remaining smooth. Getting smooth cold starts can be tricky and it helps to have more control (although that will be ECU dependant).

Just reading this again...semi sequential would mean firing groups of injectors. Mine are paired 1-5, 3-6, 2-4. Instead of pairing them like wasted spark where the cylinders are in the same position, the idea with injection is to inject fuel for 1 cylinder, then the next opening cylinder. (it works alright, but still a step down from fully sequential, for the reasons I listed above) As I understand, batch fire would be firing all injectors at a certain point.

Im running semi sequential injection on an RB25 and it seems to have mainly an effect on low load and low rpm AFRs, throttle response and also idle quality. I wish I had full sequential control, as such I would skip batch injection.

They're called PAL fuses. There's tons on ebay.

You can put an intercooler on the front of a car?

But like seriously suitable wiper blades are probably sitting in supercheap auto right now.

A standalone ECU running as a piggyback can work just fine with an S1. Concerns about retarding the ignition on gearchanges (as in, losing that function with an aftermarket ECU), have not amounted to anything with my setup. However that is in conjunction with an MV auto shift kit (which is highly recommended with any ECU, stock or otherwise). In fact, I much prefer the gearchanges on my car now to almost anything bar a good dual clutch or performance oriented auto. Ive also implemented other tricks like a variable resistor for the line pressure solenoid, controlled by the adaptronic 440. I think its important to define what youre looking for with mods, because as I said its a major step to go down the programmable ECU route. Especially when you have to start almost from scratch with maps. Goes a fair bit beyond "supporting mods".

A standalone ECU running in tandem with the stock ECU can control fuel injection and timing just fine, but it is a major (repeat: major) step to program your own ECU.

The thread may be a few years old, but still a valuable lesson. I think its cool that you can put a post up and know your vehicle is dodgy within 30 mins. The wiki nature of forums has pros and cons, but mainly pros.

The mounting to the door frame should be the same. Im using S2 mirrors on an S1, though internally the mirrors are different (so you wouldn't be able to swap the coloured plastic over to a different series mirror)

I do a lot of country highway driving and it's sure nice to have 200kw atw when overtaking.

It wont fry the starter. Look up Ohms law. Prolonged cranking would generate heat, however. I use the largest battery I can fit, which is currently a 720 CCA light truck battery. Ive used as low as 500CCA, but the larger batteries last longer. My last 600CCA one lasted 7 years. "At least" 700CCA is overkill though. My new one just happened to be the same size as the old one, so it was an easy choice.

In that case go for a full 3-3.5 inch system and enjoy the low frequency resonance.

Are they cheap Chinese LEDs? Apart from the factory defects, like the flickering you mentioned, I get the impression that a lot of Chinese ones run very close to the maximum voltage and current for the LED circuit, so with the varying voltage of a car system (more than 12v), their lifespan gets shortened significantly. I had a corn cob T10 burn out and make a hell of a nasty smell. If you want to do it with a drop in T10, try to source a good brand name LED like cree or phillips. Otherwise if you're handy with electronics, you can go all out custom with lots of cheep chinese LEDs with the addition of voltage regulators (also cheap from China).

Such a sweet package for the price.

Forgot to mention, they are the font shocks. Essentially GTR items.

Hi, looks like I need to replace the pair of rubber bushes that go between the shock absorber strut and the top plate. The stiffer shocks I put in a few years back have cracked them. I cant seem to find a specific part for them, though Ive seen similar items for other vehicles, but they look a bit small. They were polyurethane aftermarket items. They are little more than a rubber or poly donut. Has anyone replaced them before?

If the timing is good, do you have a way of checking AFRs?

It will reduce timing below 15 degrees if the engine is drawing in too much air at idle, in order to reduce the engine speed. Trying adjusting the screw on the aac valve while monitoring the engine speed and timing with consult.

How are you measuring knock? The only knock your log shows is when you let off the throttle and the manifold is under vacuum. What are your background knock values? The adaptronic knock detection seems to be quite simple and picks up a lot of other engine noise. The other way would be to record a sound clip of the headphone output on the adaptronic. Then you can slow it down and filter it to hear every cylinder firing. If you can post a sound clip that would be a great help.

Im using the innovate MTX-L, and the bosch sensor is installed just before the cat (only place that fits, other than the standard narrowband bung). When is the last time you did a free-air calibration? Innovate recommends doing it after install, then a few months later. I have noticed that the wideband reads a little richer than the narrowband, however since the adaptronic is sharing the standard ECUs wiring, there should be a voltage drop on the sensors, which would explain the leaner reading on the narrowband. Haven't checked the base timing since I had it on the dyno....

Do you mean its pinging at 14 degrees? Ive got 20 degrees of timing at 4500rpm and 173kpa. While 12:1 is on the upper end on boost, it doesnt seem dangerous, and shouldn't cause pinging at such low timing. That's like stock in how conservative the timing is. Tuning idle on the adaptronic is a little strange. My engine seems to naturally go richer at idle with the same VE value compared to the nearby cells. In order to get a smooth idle Ive added about 3-4 to the VE values at idle, bringing the idle AFR to around 12.8-13:1. Quite rich, but that's what the engine wants. As you progress to 14.7:1, the idle becomes increasingly rough, and misfires are more frequent, giving the impression of bad coils. (whilst running fine under boost)

What car do you want exactly? It may have some use as a parts car if you intend on a manual R33?

Really digging the wood highlights, Ive got a few woodgrain interior pieces around somewhere...but not enough for a full set. I have a RWD woodgrain piece for the centre console, but it doesn't fit a 4WD model. I assume your centre console is also not off a 4WD S1 stagea?

So just to revisit this, I had further problems with the gauge and voltage drop during cranking. Perhaps my battery is getting close to replacement time (voltage drops to 10 around cranking). Anyhow I thought I would test out some of these Chinese supercapacitors that have been popping up on ebay at a decent price. Basically I connected 6x 2.7v 6F caps in series to produce a 16.2v 1F cap bank. These were about the size of AA batteries. Coupled with a 6 amp diode, I produced a circuit similar to this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reservoir_capacitor Only difference being the source is DC in a car, not AC. It works a treat, and not only smooths out the voltage supplied to any connected load, it also helps to reduce transient voltage drops. This is being used to power my innovate wideband controller (3 amp draw on start due to the heater), plus my gauge. I would probably use larger capacitors if I made one again.