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Just nistune it. As standard, it goes very rich outside stock parameters and the timing is very conservative, especially in the midrange rpm. Be warned that installing an ECU on your car is like opening pandoras box.

The attesa connects to the ECU via 3 wires: ATTESA pin -> ECU pin - Description Pin 3 -> Pin 5 - Tachometer signal Pin 23 -> Pin 37 - TPS Pin 34 -> Pin 43 - Sensor ground Thankfully the unit can be used quite independently. If you feed it a pull-to-ground tach signal, it should function without throwing an error code and turning off the 4WD. If you are delving into different ECUs, the voltage drop associated with sensors like the TPS will influence what the 4WD thinks your actual throttle amount is. If you have some skill in electronics, you should be able create your own circuit to bend the TPS as you wish. If not, you should probably learn.....the S1 can be a headache to tune.

I believe FWD in this case provides a number of benefits within the mechanical rules and regulations (stuff like regen braking, aerodynamics, etc) which apply to each vehicle. Its not a pursuit of some ultimate driving machine

Going for the bentley-spec look.

Yes, http://www.ecutalk.com/ There are also links to freeware consult software.

The handiest tools for these sorts of things is a consult connector and a logging program. Fluctuating timing, or fluctuating injector values would be a good giveaway of a problem. You'd also be able to see the o2 sensor value. But some misfires can be cryptic. Ive got an occasional misfire at low rpm. I have new plugs, coilpacks, stable timing and injector pulses.... but still an occasional fart at idle.

Possible exhaust leak which also causes the o2 sensor to give incorrect readings.

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What ECU are you using?

Battery might be good, but definitely investigate the ageing wiring terminals. You can buy beefier replacement terminals from supercheap. This wiring diagram might help.

Not impressed. No diesel option, no tweed interior. Though on the plus side, you can get the car in biege.

I used a few of these as exhaust mounts: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-Landcruiser-HZJ80-HDJ80-Series-Exhaust-Mount-Rubber-Set-3-/201205416170?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item2ed8c700ea Had to fabricate my own brackets, but they make a great semi rigid mount. The exhaust cant swing around anymore.

Slow blow PAL type fuses.

Lol come on. What might one find in a fuse box?

Oh well, who wouldn't want a turbo car for their first one? Mine was. Totally worth it. Ill never forget the first time my FWD 4WS car swung the ass end out majorly in the wet. Moral of the story is to get plenty of drifting practice in so you're not so worried about it.

Righto. Well I think you're referring to the air core gauge. Think of it like a motor. The angle of the motor for a given frequency is determined by the circuitry, and that is where I think you need to be concerned. The air core mechanism itself shouldn't need to be replaced, and will save you time and fabrication. For example, my tacho stopped working, but it was the circuitry and the ECU signal. There's not much to break in the gauge itself, its just copper windings. I built a new gauge driver circuit, plugged it into the existing gauge and it works again.

When you say internal mechanism, do you mean just the circuitry? The air core dial itself shouldn't need to be changed if it has sin+ sin- cos+ cos- connections. Its just that whatever combination of dial angle and frequency will differ between circuits.

Why bother with factory internals - if you are going to change the dial face anyways? You cant "tune" the sensitivity and response of the air core driver. To do that you need to build your own like I did: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455121-tachometer-fix/ Moreso, it would be beneficial to look into microcontrollers in order to bend the signal to calibrate it to the dial face. Otherwise you will probably end up with inaccuracy at either the low or high end of the dial. If you want to make something custom, you are going to need flexibility.

I filed the holes too. You'll have to judge whether the mating surfaces are flat enough. Keep in mind that there is more than one direction that the metal can warp. Mine was a little warped, but the new gasket sealed fine, and its been fine for a few years now.

I think my engine tune is similar to above then. The stagea has the added disadvantages of being auto, 4WD and has a the aerodynamics of a baleen whale at the front. Ive now added as much timing as I feel comfortable with. I haven't spotted any problems listening to the knock sensor or looking at knock readings. Without dyno time, I dont think I can do more accurate tuning. Since my tune needed quite a lot of fixing after coming back from a reputable tuner, I don't think I trust anyone but myself.

It always astounds me that car manufacturers (and even legislators) prefer to play around with a host of gimmicky gadgets while the cars still have poor mechanical grip, and come from the factory with dangerously low grip tyres. I recently tried a nissan dualis, which set a new low for front end grip.

The new highway average over 1000kms is 11.5L/100km. That is with an extra 3 degrees of timing at the low load areas and light load AFRs between about 14.5-15.3. AFRs drop rapidly as you approach atmospheric pressure.

I tried to bleed the rear one. The tiniest amount of fluid came out and it looked like the new fluid was right there. If you bleed new fluid out the front one, Id say your job is done.

Yup I had to manually wire in a piggyback and cut the standard loom. Then start from scratch with a fuel and ignition map. I really wish I had a s2 in the first place. The s1 in standard power form is very underwhelming, and without a shift kit, the gear changes are quite slushy. The s2 auto still needs a shift kit, but at least the power side is easier. I built my car over many years, but if I were to start again and do it all in one go, an s2 would be the better option.

Due to the wonders of cheap LEDs from china, I set about changing a few blown dash lights, only to go ahead and replace about 35 bulbs in the dash, climate control, cigarette lighter and shift lever. The results are quite impressive, I just hope these chinese ones dont blow prematurely. These are white LEDs, which make the gauges appear blue, the yellow lights (such as 4WD, synchro, defrost etc) have a touch more green in the colour (a little strange looking I admit), the red lights appear more pink, while the green lights just appear more vibrant. If I had to do them in future, I would probably use white for gauges and green lights, red for red lights, warm white for yellow lights. Also don't use an LED in the low fuel warning light. The circuit always has current running through it and it will constantly light an LED.