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A consult cable and diagnostic program would show you whether it correlated with changes in the AAC valve duty. Maybe the AAC just needs a clean?

That's a crowded dash! If I had more time I would like to mess around with microcontrollers and the serial output on the adaptronic. Then you could integrate another digital display somewhere on the dash, instead of old school gauges.

Innovate says to place the sensor at least 60cm downstream from the turbo. Its best to place it just before the cat (any closer to the turbo and you're under the passenger footwell). There is a bit more of a cavity in the body around the cat area. It can be very tricky to get the exact angle, but you want it pointing as vertical as possible so that condensation doesn't sit in the sensor.

Stageas don't have locking differentials. LSDs at most.

Its all good now. The car was on a 4wd dyno, I only had a chance to diagnose what the 4wd was doing once I drove it on the road. Pulling out the fuses did disable the 4wd though? If theres no pump pressure, there should be no torque applied to the front wheels beyond the preload on the transfer case? Anyhow, I was mainly sharing the tacho fix, I know theres a few people who have busted tachos.

Well I came up with a solution for those of you who still have broken tacho (or even speedos) http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455121-tachometer-fix/

This reminded me to put up a repair solution I came up with http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455121-tachometer-fix/

For those of you frustrated with their tachometer that doesn't work, this may be a solution. I set about building a completely new and independent tachometer driver. This isnt a tutorial, just giving people ideas. If youre not confident in making a circuit and troubleshooting it afterwards, best skip this. You'll need to grab yourself a CS8190 integrated circuit. They come in a 20 pin and 16 pin configuration. I would recommend the 16 pin one, as it can be mounted into an IC socket. At the time only the 20 pin was available to me and it was a pain to manually solder the very small pins. Theres plenty on ebay. Other than that you'll need to pick up all the components listed in the PDF circuit diagrams. After all the shopping was done, it was simply a matter of mounting the circuit board to the back of the cluster, as seen in the pictures. Disclaimer: So far I have only used this with an aftermarket ECU, as the tacho output on my standard ECU doesn't work. However, the tacho works using a ground switching signal, and so the stock ECU should work. Tip 1: I also have the ATTESA ecu connected to the tacho signal. If you are using this tacho on a 4WD application, putting a diode between the ATTESA and ecu reduced jitter in the tacho. Tip 2: I subsequently made a remote mounted trimpot that I can reach under the dash without having to dismantle everything just so I can make adjustments to the tacho. The instructions list a 250k trimpot, however it is too sensitive. The target resistance is around 150k ohms. This can be achieved with a 100k resistor in series with a 100k trimpot, and will give you finer control. Perhaps even 125k resistor with a 50k trimpot. Finally I have the accuracy in an acceptable range. While it is accurate to about 3000rpm, it gradually reads too fast. 7000rpm on the tacho equates to about 6500rpm engine speed. You can change this with the trimpot, but you will have to choose your accurate range. If it is accurate at high rpms, it will read too low at low rpms. CS8190-D.PDF datasheet cs8190.pdf

The adaptronic lists both the target AFR as well as the measured AFR when it makes a log file. The only downside is guessing the delay of the sensor to react to the changing AFR under acceleration. The knock detection issue is a concern. I tried to log some power runs yesterday with very conservative timing, in order to get a background noise reading on the engine through the RPM range. Even then the knock reading was variable over 3 runs. Still, I regularly listen to the engine through the ECUs headphone output, Ive never heard any knock. Not a guarantee, but I have no evidence so far that its occurring.

Well I scrapped my timing changes, but kept the new AFRs, Ill see how it goes. Yes I have a wideband.

Well, I have added about 3 degrees of timing across the light load area up to about 80kpa and 3900 rpm, and about 2 degrees around 93kpa. I have changed the 1000 and 3000rpm 50kpa target AFRs to 15.2, while the 100kpa target to 14.0 Hopefully that is a small, safe but measurable improvement

Thanks, though can you estimate how your 16:1 afr richened as the load increased? Not up to boost, just up to 0 manifold vacuum. Eg, on my AFR table, I guess you would have around 16 at 50kpa. Im wondering what the safest AFR is for 0 manifold vacuum (around 100kpa). I would only need to tweak the 1000rpm and 3000 rpm columns for cruising. That should keep it safe for revving the engine out. Plus the ECU uses map prediction for quick throttle changes.

I am fine tuning the cruising area of my ECU. Recently on a long trip, I had a chance to do a comparison vs the stock ECU on the same journey, and the new tune returns around 12.4l/100km, while the stock was around ~12.5L/100km. While not totally disappointing, it could improve. At least my tune is about the same as a stock tune in terms of consumption, while being better on full power. I have been reading up on what AFRs people run on partial throttle. The thing is, light/partial throttle can mean anything up to 110kpa manifold pressure on the stagea (heavy car, AWD, takes throttle to keep it moving). I have attached my target AFR curves (the actual fuel map is very close), plus the timing map. Are there any areas low down that could do with some tweaking? Is the timing too conservative for the highway, or is it likely to be in the AFRs? For example, what AFR could be safely run at 100kpa engine load? Thanks PS engine mods include turboback exhaust, high flowed R33 turbo, FMIC

What kind of "wasted spark" are you talking about? If you have a single ignition output driving 2 coilpacks, like OEM or splitfires, then there is no degradation of the spark, it simply means that each coilpack is firing twice as often (one spark being "wasted" on the exhaust stroke) One caveat would seem to be the difference in duty cycle between wasted and fully sequential ignition, especially when you start increasing dwell. Then there could be an argument about additional heat and the negative effects on the coil. I run splitfires in wasted spark configuration, with 2ms of dwell. Although its perfectly fine on 13psi of boost, longevity of the coils is something on my mind. (hence keeping the dwell time down)

Ive used Nulon long life and deionised water for the past 6 years. No hassles.

If you can't change the dwell through some aftermarket ECU solution, then best to stick with a stock replacement. OEM, splitfire, whatever. I assume youre looking at ECUs if you're turbocharging the vehicle? If so then you could try an LS2 coilpack conversion. Even then splitfires make an easy drop in solution, depending on how much boost you want to run.

Have the car running. Backprobe pin 14, then measure the voltage between that and earth. Measure the voltage with the A/C switched off, then on. Repeat process with pin 21. Post up results.

Not the dying, but the street racing videos are very popular entertainment on youtube. Perhaps I should encapsulate my sentences with <cynicism></cynicism> tags.

Been a while since Ive read some car forum drama. If you're going to be doing something illegal, its not a smart idea to be filming it along with many other similar situations, in front of hundreds of witnesses. Even if it does provide the rest of us with great entertainment.

The better question is, do you need more than a 3 inch intake? If you need more than a 3 inch intake pipe, youre probably going to be exceeding the power limits of the auto gearbox. Even a 3 inch custom metal intake should keep you happy.

Adaptronic 440. It has a lot of integrated features which can save you money, ie boost control, serial input for a wideband, programmable outputs, plus some neat adaptive tuning features, ie with a wideband it can automatically alter a fuel map (though best results are done manually). Plus theres a flex fuel functionality if you're interested in e85. Just be mindful that you're starting from scratch with ignition and fuel maps, so the learning curve is very steep. Although there are base maps available, they arent very good. You'll need to learn how to tune yourself, even in conjunction with a tuner.

If you can nistune your auto, go for it. I can't on my vehicle and its been a lot of work setting up another piggyback unit (albeit it comes with a few perks).

Ive been meaning to make something similar which would make a pull to ground switch into a 12v switch using a 2N3906 transistor, but is was for very rapid switching (a tacho) In this case couldnt you invert the state by using a small relay? You'll need to be specific whether the AC relay, or the climate control is the affected one. transistor.switches.pdf

Do you have the number of your original ECU? Does it have 23740 0V300 on the sticker?

Pin 14 and 21 on your original loom plug should be all you need to work out. Assuming everything works, when the climate control wants to turn on the A/C, it sends a signal to pin 21 (cant remember if it grounds a 12v signal from the ECU, or actually supplies 12v to the ecu). Then if the ECU thinks all parameters are normal, ie not full throttle or overheating etc, it then grounds the A/C relay, turning it on. So you just need to find those 2 pins on the power fc pinout and connect them to the correct wires on the loom, if they are in different positions to the stock ecu. WGC34_Series_1___STAGEA_RB25DET_Auto_ECU_Pinout_translated.xls